Active multi amping.

Man 2,5" simply cannot suck 800wrms. On a woofer. No f....ing way. Tell them they're liars . Let me guess the impedance is 4 ohms. That will get you 200wrms at the most.
Coral is specing my 15L70 woofers with a 2,3/4 voice coil at 150 w peak. And it's an 8ohms voice coil on aluminum former with holes around it to help cooling. Of course Coral was very conservative on the power specs and not only. If you want a real powerful woofer look at the JBL series , maybe like the 2226 . 4" edgewound voice coil on kapton former. That will do the trick.
 
Oh Dave they are computer fans , but the green is like SANSUI so I kept it. Off course I haven't tried to watch a movie to see if they really counteract my PJ's contrast which I suspect they will so I let them be . We will see.
 
Hey hi people. Long time no post.
I'm getting ready for a change in the system's architecture. It will be a 3way , system now, 8" jbl's are walking off.
The two 15" woofers will remain, one active and the other as a passive radiator. No bass reflex. Mid and tweeters will remain the same , with an extra same tweeter addition.
New cabinets have to be built. Same cross will be used . Frequencies will be 500hz cutoff for woofers, 6000hz cutoff for the mid then the tweeters will take over. Reason is there are some problems with the jbl's and , keep it more simple as a 3way , rather than four.
Also a mod will be added to the woofers. A copper ring on the base of the back plate around the center pole , to act as magnetic field enhancer . Copied from JBL.
Stay tuned.
 
Well , first the woofers.
All four got disassembled , even the magnet from the two plates , and work was done on the back piece pole .
A 5 mm 5 spirals shorting ring was placed at the bottom , of the piece forming back pole ,going up as a cylinder to move to magnetic lines from the back side of the magnet up top.
This shorting ring is a JBL patent and truly increases dynamics and sorts out the magnetic field. More on this in JBL .
Woofers were realigned and put back together .
Now the kick from the woofers (CORAL ;s 15L70) hits you in the stomach so hard , so fast , so dynamically you don't expect it . True dynamics and unbelievable speed . Like i had a whole new set of 4 woofers. Bear in mind only one is active. The other serves as a passive radiator. Its exactly the same woofer.
That was last years patent.
Now this year after some thought some fidling around and some talk with my friend the speakers technician manufacturer i decided it was about time to switch to a more modern active crossover .
There are certain problems with CD 10 that cannot be fixed. The absence of the diamond differential in the input for instance. This absence leaves the negative feedback do its job , but it ruins dynamics. Sound sounds flat, dull, with no dynamics, no attack , lifeless in a single word.
Also , i could not time align drivers , so that sound emission would be perfectly aligned, woofer , mid , tweeters (two on each speaker) .
Also i was feeling i was further restricted on the cross filter being Butterworth either 12db or 18db per octave and that's it.
After some searching i decided to pull the plug on the Behringer ULTRADRIVE PRO 2496 .
Digital active cross with a very transparent AD and DA conversion that is actually undetectable . All processing is done on digital domain , like cross over , every filter and slope i like, from butterworth to bessel to linkwitz rilley , from 6 to 48db/oct. It simply does everything.
It also have three inputs , one is even capable for AES EBU direct digital signal , the other is a normal balanced input also and the third , can be switched as to accept a measuring microphone , and thereafter time align the drivers on each speaker separately . It can also adjust phase , on each output , by 15 degrees , and swap polarity.
It also has equalizer , with variable Q, compressor , Limiter , and who knows what other features are in this one.Its 3 in 6 out , multi configuration unit , with fully adjustable line levels in and out .
It's an unbelievable machine that literally untied my hands on adjusting my outputs to the amps and speakers.
This beauty came to my home from Amazon DE , in 2weeks time for 256e price. Shipping included.
Probably my best purchase all these years, apart from the drivers that constitute my speakers.
 
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Moe you are spot on.
Especially the first part of your post.
But generally i agree with you .
Now for the Behringer's LR cross i 'll have to dig deeper into that. At the present i'm utilizing butterworth , 18db/oct and 24db/oct on the tweeters.
I never wanted to adopt the tilted baffle to time align my drivers. I think it needs to many trials with a questionable outcome apart from being terribly difficult to implement it on my speakers the way they are designed.
Hence i was ready to move on , onto something more modern like the Behringer or the DBX which BTW is the same thing .
I wanted to have a more accurate and precise managing of my speakers along with their driving amps.
The time delay feature being one crucial matter of them.
I know my drivers are very special , and wanted to get 100% out of them.
That's why i turned to DCS 2496 ULTRA DRIVE PRO.
Not that the CD 10 is a bad choice. On the contrary , there are some areas where it prevails over the Berry .
The Berry being better on fine tuning and stuff like that . Cd 10 being a cross of it's age is a bit behind , but it's sound footprint is unique , unparalleled , warm and nice.
I am not sure i will separate from it.
Still have some work and tests to do , while spending some time and getting used to it .
Stay tuned and post all your thoughts.
I'm open to any suggestions.
 
I use a Lake Contour, it has linear phase filters, cannot go wrong!!
Whatever filters you use butterworth, Linkwitz Reily or whatever, you will always experience phase shift at the crossover point by nature, this is why I am using the Lake Contour, makes a big difference having no phase shift from the crossover.
 
Digital active cross with a very transparent AD and DA conversion that is actually undetectable . All processing is done on digital domain , like cross over , every filter and slope i like, from butterworth to bessel to linkwitz rilley , from 6 to 48db/oct. It simply does everything.
It also have three inputs , one is even capable for AES EBU direct digital signal , the other is a normal balanced input also and the third , can be switched as to accept a measuring microphone , and thereafter time align the drivers on each speaker separately . It can also adjust phase , on each output , by 15 degrees , and swap polarity.
It also has equalizer , with variable Q, compressor , Limiter , and who knows what other features are in this one.Its 3 in 6 out , multi configuration unit , with fully adjustable line levels in and out .
It's an unbelievable machine that literally untied my hands on adjusting my outputs to the amps and speakers.
:beerchug:

I have and use a pro/high grade digital loudspeaker management crossover like yours that I use to tri-amp my Mc. XRT 30 speaker system.
Though it`s not a Behringer, but a ~10yr. old OmniDrive BSS-FDS366T with 96/24 internal sampling, and a really cool and handy driver alignment integral firmware program which greatly simplified setting up the Mc speaker system (meaning I didn`t have to dust off my circa 1990 Crown TEF TDS analyzer to use to manually set the system up, but I only needed my Class 1 measurement microphone placed in the sweet spot connected to it and then run the program. Sweet !!

It was the second digital crossovers that I`ve ever purchased and used, being the first was a early nineties Peavy pro unit, which worked very well for the bi-amplified Mc XRT 22s, then in use in my living room`s system.

Enjoy, Sir.
 
What phase shift can take place in the digital domain?
Its the nature of the design of the filter, this is what causes the phase shift, not the actual X-Over.
It takes a lot of processing to generate a Linear Phase filter which is why not all digital X-overs can do it.
I think the Lake Contour was one of the first to do it.
 
:beerchug:

I have and use a pro/high grade digital loudspeaker management crossover like yours that I use to tri-amp my Mc. XRT 30 speaker system.
Though it`s not a Behringer, but a ~10yr. old OmniDrive BSS-FDS366T with 96/24 internal sampling, and a really cool and handy driver alignment integral firmware program which greatly simplified setting up the Mc speaker system (meaning I didn`t have to dust off my circa 1990 Crown TEF TDS analyzer to use to manually set the system up, but I only needed my Class 1 measurement microphone placed in the sweet spot connected to it and then run the program. Sweet !!

It was the second digital crossovers that I`ve ever purchased and used, being the first was a early nineties Peavy pro unit, which worked very well for the bi-amplified Mc XRT 22s, then in use in my living room`s system.

Enjoy, Sir.
Those BSS Omnidrives are actually very nice sounding units, we used to use these exclusively in our systems.
They are older than what you think, they are 20+ years old, pretty sure the first ones came out in 1999.
The T variant was a few years later.
They do actually have a nice sound, I'd be using one of those over any Behringer to be honest.

These days all the DSP is in the amplifiers, so things have changed a lot.....
 
Those BSS Omnidrives are actually very nice sounding units, we used to use these exclusively in our systems.
They are older than what you think, they are 20+ years old, pretty sure the first ones came out in 1999.
The T variant was a few years later.
They do actually have a nice sound, I'd be using one of those over any Behringer to be honest.

These days all the DSP is in the amplifiers, so things have changed a lot.....

Thanks, kevzep, and I agree about preferring over the Behringer.
A very transparent and smooth sounding loudspeaker management crossover IMHE.
I don`t know how old my model has been in production, as I bought 2 $$$$ brand new ones over 10 yrs. ago, via a recommendation from my nearby Hi-Fi dealer..

Had to modify it though : Pro Sound rack use high speed noisy fan had to go !
Had a totally perforated duplicated lid custom made, and removed the 2 rear mounted unneeded RS 232 jacks to provide additional air to be naturally drawn in to supplement the now removed fans side opening`s vent holes for decent air intake.
And also gave it a full empty rack space above for good convection breathing room & nothing very warm running below it.

I guess it`s happy without forced cooling, because it`s never complained or glitched even after running for hrs. at a time for over 10 yrs. of use.
 
Thanks, kevzep, and I agree about preferring over the Behringer.
A very transparent and smooth sounding loudspeaker management crossover IMHE.
I don`t know how old my model has been in production, as I bought 2 $$$$ brand new ones over 10 yrs. ago, via a recommendation from my nearby Hi-Fi dealer..

Had to modify it though : Pro Sound rack use high speed noisy fan had to go !
Had a totally perforated duplicated lid custom made, and removed the 2 rear mounted unneeded RS 232 jacks to provide additional air to be naturally drawn in to supplement the now removed fans side opening`s vent holes for decent air intake.
And also gave it a full empty rack space above for good convection breathing room & nothing very warm running below it.

I guess it`s happy without forced cooling, because it`s never complained or glitched even after running for hrs. at a time for over 10 yrs. of use.
I put a voltage dropping resistor on the fan in the Lake Contour, it reduced the fan speed down so its very quiet.....
I am sure they are well "over-fanned" for reliability, I've never seen a 366 fail because of heat....solid units...
 
well to wrap it up , i wouldn't spend 4500$ or a bit less for the two lake crossovers , LM26 LM44 that are available now for sale.
I do the job with surprising precision with the ultradrive pro 2496.
 
well to wrap it up , i wouldn't spend 4500$ or a bit less for the two lake crossovers , LM26 LM44 that are available now for sale.
I do the job with surprising precision with the ultradrive pro 2496.
Those are the newer models, mine is a Lake Contour which is much older, from early 2000's, I paid $900US for it.
 
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