Adding a soft start to a Fisher

Great thread here, is the schematic above good for my X202B? I need to get one in mine as well.... Thanks Al
 
Al; Generally the CL-80 goes in the same place electrically, between the power cord and the switch. You can get a double gang box, an extension cord with a single end on it, cut one lead, and insert the CL-80 in series with the cut line (think of it as a non lighting DBT in a sense as far as wiring goes). Mark the box Inrush limiter, and hook it to the wall and your X-202 to it. This will also keep the heat down in the X-202. Use it for whatever unit you want then.

Here's where you would cut the line (bwtn the red dots) and install the CL-80 INSIDE the X-202B.

X-202-B CL-80.jpg
 
Here's what I'm talking about. I can't remember the guys name, and it's in a thread here on the FISHER FORUM, so I'm NOT TAKING CREDIT FOR THIS. But it's such a good idea that it just has to be drawn out for use.

CL-80 Box.JPG
 
I MUST BE losing my mind. The idea for the above came off this thread on post #18 by OBMG74.
Thank you Sir!
 
I just thought of something else. For those of you who are using a bucking transformer to drop the voltage, just tie the CL-80 to the secondary side of the transformer wiring in series, and put it all in one box. Now you have a bucking transformer to drop the voltage down to within voltage spec, AND soft start with the CL-80. No parts inside, and can be used on multiple units as needed (one at a time tho).
 
Thanks Larry, a great idea and one I never thought of. All my Fishers have CL's in them but the 202B... will likely get on this soon...appreciate the idea!
 
Hello,

Something that you might want to consider:
I installed a thermistor in an electrical handy box with a 120v male plug going in and a female plug going out, then plugged my S/C ASR-433 into that assembly.
Works great and no circuit modification necessary.
Do you have pictures of the ending product? It would help me tremendously!
 
Do you have pictures of the ending product? It would help me tremendously!
Hi Rob,
My box is buried in the back of my rack abyss, otherwise I would be glad to photograph it for you.
I don't think that it would be of much help though, Larry's drawing shows what the photo would yield.
 
Hi Rob,
My box is buried in the back of my rack abyss, otherwise I would be glad to photograph it for you.
I don't think that it would be of much help though, Larry's drawing shows what the photo would yield.
No worries. Just thought id ask. I'm a visual person and typically pretty handy given there's a YouTube video available. ;) However The Fisher is my baby and I won't be tinkering unless I know what the heck I'm doing...
 
Larry, have you built one of these?
No, because all of my gear have the CL-80 built in to the units. It's all very quite simple to build, and the drawing on post 23 should be plenty good enough for a visual person. Cut the female end of the extension cord off. Pull the cord thru the box and secure it on both sides with the cable clamps leaving about 6inches of slack(you;ll remove the slack in a bit). Then split the cord down the center (in the box) and cut one of the wires (doesn't matter which one) and strip the ends. Attach a CL-80 to the stripped ends and solder, then heatshrink the joints(This is where the slack comes in so you can solder the joints and not shrink the heatshrink tubing at the same time.). When cooled down pull the slack out of the box so the CL-80 is hanging in the middle WITHOUT touching the box. Put the top on, and attach a new female end to the cord. Mark the box "INRUSH LIMITER" and you are DONE!!
 
No, because all of my gear have the CL-80 built in to the units. It's all very quite simple to build, and the drawing on post 23 should be plenty good enough for a visual person. Cut the female end of the extension cord off. Pull the cord thru the box and secure it on both sides with the cable clamps leaving about 6inches of slack(you;ll remove the slack in a bit). Then split the cord down the center (in the box) and cut one of the wires (doesn't matter which one) and strip the ends. Attach a CL-80 to the stripped ends and solder, then heatshrink the joints(This is where the slack comes in so you can solder the joints and not shrink the heatshrink tubing at the same time.). When cooled down pull the slack out of the box so the CL-80 is hanging in the middle WITHOUT touching the box. Put the top on, and attach a new female end to the cord. Mark the box "INRUSH LIMITER" and you are DONE!!
Larry, perfect direction. This should be very straightforward. I put in an order for several CL-80's for my Fisher, so I will have extras. I also like this versus inside the 800 because there isn't much real estate free. As always, thanks for your help sir.
 
It all depends on the load (in amps) that the unit has. The CL-80 has been shown to be the correct part in 99% of the time for FISHER tube gear. .
 
Back
Top Bottom