Very likely are. I worked the female side a little with what I think (if I recall correctly) was a dental pic. Them was interesting to get at. At any rate, the real issue in the first place wasnt the setup itself was it? It's the tension. Hence, elevate tension the male side puts on the plug and on, and problem solved. Mount umbilical to side wall or something perhaps.Yeah, I hear ya. When I worked on the plugs, I actually bent the female contacts so the fit was very tight. So, maybe I'm good for 10 years!
I think I know the term "terminal plate"Add a terminal plate or cup like I did and you wont have to dork with the crossover so much.
I think I know the term "terminal plate"
And "cup" sounds interesting. Can I see?
I put a set of STAX Binding post just inside the hole and wired the xover to that so I don't have to pull it from the front. Is this what you mean? I'm not to familiar with certain terminology. The STAX have HUGE binding knobs which is awesome to grab a hold of. Many are simply to close together, unless we use banana plugs. Which, I dont.
Nicely done solution. It is a bit of a PITA to have to open up the crossovers to connect-disconnect the speaker wires. Usually once these are in place, you won't be needing to connect or disconnect the often.Sounds like you did something similar. Here is how I did mine with one from Parts Express.
View attachment 981355
Great. I've got it in my watch list on fleabay. I may grab them just as backups. I fixed my originals, first with a Deoxit bath, then tightening all the contacts in the plugs and have had no issues in the last year and a half.
Cheers Glenn
Look forward to your initial impressions.Nice discussion. My 910s are finally coming online now. I also used a small dental pick to tighten the contacts in the socket soldered to the crossover. This, for the past few days, has seemed to fix the intermittent contacting problem. While I _hate_ Molex connectors for long term connectivity, the solution from Parts Express is an easy swap out for the originals, especially since they've crimped the pins to the wires for you. That part, without the proper tool, will result in more intermittent problems.
Also, I'm also leaning toward a terminal cup for the speaker connections for a permanent solution to the external speaker connections. I do wish I had a couple of the bi-amp boards, I'd love to give that a try.
Next step, however, is to get the tweeters/mids off to Richard So and to have at least one of the woofers fixed up - it has a tear in the cone that was patched with candle wax, it appears. The fix was well done, however.
This weekend I'll get a chance to crank them up since the wife's off to a conference.
Cheers,
David
I found my cards and bought them from a seller in Canada who use to be an authorized ADS service shop. If you google it, the shop or the cards will probably show up.Nice discussion. My 910s are finally coming online now. I also used a small dental pick to tighten the contacts in the socket soldered to the crossover. This, for the past few days, has seemed to fix the intermittent contacting problem. While I _hate_ Molex connectors for long term connectivity, the solution from Parts Express is an easy swap out for the originals, especially since they've crimped the pins to the wires for you. That part, without the proper tool, will result in more intermittent problems.
Also, I'm also leaning toward a terminal cup for the speaker connections for a permanent solution to the external speaker connections. I do wish I had a couple of the bi-amp boards, I'd love to give that a try.
Next step, however, is to get the tweeters/mids off to Richard So and to have at least one of the woofers fixed up - it has a tear in the cone that was patched with candle wax, it appears. The fix was well done, however.
This weekend I'll get a chance to crank them up since the wife's off to a conference.
Cheers,
David
Interesting observations.Just a thought. A hinged door covering the crossover hole in the back with the jack cup set into it would be handy. Swing it open when you need to, but keep it latched shut when in use.
For all the engineering that ADS did, they had some odd coverings/holes on a number of speakers. L1230s have weird riser bases and odd shaped holes in the lower back, 910s have the odd speaker/crossover connection holes, L1290 series 1s have the amp hole cover screwed to the back so it takes a screwdriver to change speaker wire and the series 2 hides the connection in the base so that you must lay the speaker down to hook them up and if series 1 bases are used on series 2, the base must come off to hook up speakers.
Odd for sure, considering how well some of the crossovers and cabs are made.
Yep, found the guy tonight. Ouch! $125 US funds for 2 original plug-in cards. Considering it but could probably design a couple of them myself. Need to send the drivers off to Mr. So first.I found my cards and bought them from a seller in Canada who use to be an authorized ADS service shop. If you google it, the shop or the cards will probably show up.
Hi David,Yep, found the guy tonight. Ouch! $125 US funds for 2 original plug-in cards. Considering it but could probably design a couple of them myself. Need to send the drivers off to Mr. So first.
Cheers,
David
Hey gents!
There's a very nice set of 910's on the bay with LEDs, original Tri-amp cards and external crossovers. A decent price considering what you're getting, but they are complete with badges and stands and look to be in overall excellent shape.
These just sold, I guess ADS changed the badges on the later models. Mine say 'ADS 910' however these appeared to just have the 'ADS' logo with no 910 after.There's a very nice set of 910's on the bay with LEDs, original Tri-amp cards and external crossovers. A decent price considering what you're getting, but they are complete with badges and stands and look to be in overall excellent shape.
Keeping the ADS 910 emblems to sell separately? I don't think so. But there is a guy selling gear piecemeal on the bay. Some Luxman table no armboard, armboard is then available as two pieces, mount to the table, and mount fo the arm to that piece. I don't like that practice, but it does get folks parts they might need at very high prices.These just sold, I guess ADS changed the badges on the later models. Mine say 'ADS 910' however these appeared to just have the 'ADS' logo with no 910 after.
Yeah, I didn't think that was the case, I just didn't realize that they (the company, ADS) changed the badge later in the production.Keeping the ADS 910 emblems to sell separately? I don't think so.
Yeah, I didn't think that was the case, I just didn't realize that they (the company, ADS) changed the badge later in the production.
I haven't been able to find many good images of the badges for the 910s, but it seems the older ones with the veneered back have the "aDs 910" logo, and the newer black backed ones have the large "ADS" square logo.
Can anyone confirm from theirs? Mine are missing the badges, but I'm getting a set of repro "aDs 910" made by an AK'er.
Mine have the veneered backs and have the 'aDs 910' badges. My serial numbers are in the 2200 range, if that helps.I haven't been able to find many good images of the badges for the 910s, but it seems the older ones with the veneered back have the "aDs 910" logo, and the newer black backed ones have the large "ADS" square logo.