ADS-910's

I wish I could answer your question. There's a couple AKers who use to work at ADS that may know. Nice that they are sequencial.

I haven't seen any other SN with the 'A'. Could be A = left over parts and scraps to finish out these cabs left in stock. That would be OK too. I noticed the xover decal states 'L910' which I thought was interesting since the decal with the SN does not include the 'L'. Any thoughts on that?
 
Update on my damage in shipping situation:

The eBay seller I purchased from appears to have handled everything with honesty. They were quick to respond to my questions and with genuine concern for the damage the units received during shipment. I in-turn was honest with them and did my best to respond to their questions and requests for pictures and information as quickly as possible. We worked through eBay messaging as well as through direct email which is acceptable according to eBay, once a sale has occurred.

It was nearly five days from deliver to proposed resolution, I was nervous as each hour and Day passed but was staying relatively optimistic as the seller worked through what they needed to do on their end to determine their proposal.

They proposed a resolution to the situation which I agreed to and now consider this situation fully and satisfactorily resolved.

I'm sharing this because so often I've read of battles and horror stories between buyers and sellers and in this case, I believe each side behaved in a way that indicated how we desired to be treated and an acceptable resolution was worked out without having to go through the dispute route via eBay.

Now, I need to get to work on the repairs on these and get them playing some tunes so I can provide my impressions to the community! :music:
 
I was able to reinstall/remount one of the two 3.0mH inductors that were knocked off the crossovers :thumbsup:.

HOWEVER, the 2nd one (one for each xo), snapped the wire at the "start" end of the spool and therefore there is nothing to use or access to be able to reattach through the circuit board.

Do I need to buy a new (assuming an air core) inductor into this xo or could there be some other way to potentially repair or reinstall the original one I have?
 
You can solder the wire together, stub and coil sections or use a jumper for the stub long enough to do what you need to do. The wire is coated and the coating needs to come off to solder it. Unwinding it an inch isn't a problem. Unwinding enough to install it, one wrap or so, I don't know.
 
Thank you! My immediate challenge is the the "start" end of the wire, the part that is on the bottom of the spool, under all of the other wire wound on top of it, is what snapped and there is no stub to work with. :eek:

I considered unwinding the whole inductor but then read about what is involved etc and for the time being I'm looking for better options.
 
That would take some digging to get a stub and then some reconstruction to make the coil whole again but since that part of the coil is probably mounted onto the board, once repaired it won't be visible. I would be carving into that coil, exposing enough stub to form a hook to connect to another chunk of wire for mounting to the board.

If you get replacement coils the need to match the mH as well as the resistance.
 
Thanks Glenn, I was looking at those, I think PE has three separate 3.0mH air coil inductors available. IF I end up going that route I'm thinking I should get two, and replace in both speakers? No?

BlueS, I may try that route first, like I mentioned above, it's similar to what I did to the first inductor "repair", the first one just had workable stubs on both ends so there wasn't any "digging" needed.

I guess I'll give the digging (carefully) a go and see if I can get something workable there. If I remember to take some, photos to follow as well.
 
I've had the 910s for a couple weeks and love, love them...very much! I've read about the dropping out problem. I have experienced that. However, so far, only when they are played with other speakers.
Amp is Yamaha CR-1020, New large Advents are speakers A, 910s are speaker B. Select A+B and the mid on the 910s right channel pops. Back off the bass and it stops. I expected the noise to be coming from woofer but I'm sure it isn't. Reverse the stereo mode on the amp and the pop *does* change to the other channel. This seems to indicate the problem is not speaker but amp. The Advents don't show any issues. The 910s don't drop out when played by themselves.
This may end up being unrelated to the 910s but since I've not experienced it before owning them I'm starting here. Thanks for any suggestions or advice.
 
Seems like an amp issue. Did you switch the 910's to speaker A, and the Advents to speaker B and see if the pop follows the 910's?
I have not experienced any popping with my 910's.
 
Hey west coast AKers in Orange County! Check out the CL listing for 910 speakers. Mission Viejo area. There's what looks like a nice set of 910's with stands for a pretty good price. I know these don't show up too much out west, so here's an opportunity to get a pair of these fantastic beasts!
Glenn
 
Check out the CL listing for 910 speakers. Mission Viejo area. There's what looks like a nice set of 910's with stands for a pretty good price.
Glenn
Who are you trying to kid. Finding and buying a set of stands will cost more than half the ask and this set comes with a spare mid and tweet. So that leaves a c-note to cover the speakers if the other parts are bought separately. A pretty good price, what an understatement. The correct ask for these is twice that and then negotiate down a hundo or two. These are cheap.
 
Hello gents,
I too am submitting my application for joining the club. I haven’t listened to box speakers in a long time having full range es speakers for the past 35 years. Years ago I sold ADS speakers and always lusted for a pair of L910s. So in my new home I had a great excuse for setting up a new system in my great-room. I remember listening to them biamped with a Marantz 7t preamp and two Marantz 15 amps back in those days. Soooo.....
In one day on eBay I bought a pair of L910s three Marantz 15 amps and a Model 7t preamp. Also scored the biamp and triamp cards and the led meter boards for the L910s. The amps are off soon for complete restorations as well as the preamp.
In the mean time I’m running them off a Crown IC150a preamp and a Crown D150a amp.
These sound better than I remembered! I lucked out driver wise, tweeters, mids and woofers are perfect. I was expecting the worse and had contacted Mr. So but it seems I’m not going to need his services.
I join you now in your enthusiasm for these speakers. Remarkable sound from such old speakers. Can’t wait for the Marantz equipment to get done and biamp these babies. In the mean time I need to find a active crossover. Can’t use the Crown VFX2a ( of which I have 4 unused ones in storage) because they have no level controls and the amps don’t either. Never ran into this before. Any one have a active crossover you would recommend?
 
Last edited:
The 2 that come to mind are the sae 4000 (ADS recomended) and pioneer sf850.
Today, many folks go by way of the plethora of avail DSP for ease of use.
The C-2000 used for the 30 series ADS really is not the ideal ticket for the 910 though. Though i have biamped the 1290,1590, and 2030, when i did the 910 I did not use an active xover. I used full range on the top as its handled by the passive, and i used a professional amp (Crown) with built in DSP for the low end. In the end, i began to run just gobs of power in standard mode.
Ive had 10 or so pair of 910, and have developed mods for the umbilical cord to eliminate driver dropout. If you dont know what im refering to, you will. The mod was a marked improvement in itself. Took some time, and very little cost. Good times ahead on your venture, its a fun one.
So long as you stay within a certain freq range, you can play around a little with what sounds good to you. 500hz@ 12db is a great place to start. (If memory serves)
Welcome to the club!
Edit: what i do to the xover is pull the plug off of it. I add a pigtail soldered to the board, and secured via the nut for the woofer inductor. (Eliminates stress by the plug on the board) that pigtail has a quality Molex plug on it. In the end, the crossovers have a much more secure plug, which has a bit longer lead and does not stress the board.
To hook wires to the xover, (in full range) lay something on the speaker. Place xover up there, and ensure ALL 3 GROUND screws are PRESENT and tight. There are 3 ground screws with the strap (bus bar) one for each. Hook to any one, but be sure they are all there, (the screws) and all tight. Otherwise one portion (woofer, mid, tweet) will have a poor connection (ground) In biamp mode, this will be a bit different.

Also, check all 6 fuses. (3 in each xover) maker sure they are all the correct value, or smaller (a little). Many times these get replaced or switched around. Ive seen 5amp fuses in the tweeter. 10amp ect...tin foil...oh my. May as well clean the switches while you are mucking about as they are known to be spotty. Speaking of fuses and incorrect replacements, i always check my mids and tweets. Maybe for you, some time down the road if there is evidence of removal. Evidence being, pry marks about the parimater of drivers. Sooo many ive had did gave incorrect tweeters. Mids were not as common. But then, im a bit anal. No evidence, i leave well enough alone.
 
Last edited:
Congrats! Terrific holiday presents to yourself!
That system should sound sublime once the restorations are completed.
Are yours early or later, and did they come with the optional stands? Earlier will have walnut veneer on the backs of the cabs, later, painted black. The stands raise them 7 inches so find something adequate to do same. I noticed a big difference from them sitting on the floor to getting them up on the stands.
Let's see some pics when you get a chance and welcome to the club!
Happy Holidays!
Cheers, Glenn
 
Back
Top Bottom