ADS-910's

839BAB86-6D22-4243-B56C-C27BDC8D3937.jpeg 57AC5871-BC6C-4EE1-ABEC-A97E0573A12A.jpeg Allhart and GD70,
Thank you for the responses. I have read all the posts here, great information. I did see pics of the connector mod. I gave the connectors a look over and they seem fine. It felt like they were never pulled apart. However, if I detect driver dropout it will be the first place I’ll troubleshoot.
These speakers are early series with correct stands. I just added the led boards with a switch to turn them off but am curious how you fixed the board to the crossovers?. There are no clips or mounting brackets for it.
I have a box of tweeters including the correct ones for the series 2. I also have the OEM caps for upgrading but I have to say they sound exquisite just the way they are so I’m hesitant to change a thing.
Oh and new fuses are on the way. I don’t trust old fuses even if correct value. It’s funny that they really are the weak link in the system. We are so concerned with cable type and material,
This cap or that resistor and yet the signals always have to go through those spider web thin wires and lousy non-gold plated fuse clip holders. I always clean those as well with contact cleaner. Lol
Ill try some pics: main system and this new one
Ha they ended up at the top. I can’t find the other picture of the left side of the main system. It consists of two more racks of equipment plus turntable .
 

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Sounds like you have a nice grasp on this, and some familiarity at least as well as a desire to play with it a bit. Its enjoyably. I am not a fan of recaping just for the sake of it, though on the 910 if any it is the axial for the woofer. I have a meter for testing (sencore) so if its not leaky, i leave it.
Thing about the plug mod, i do it as a matter of principal. Principal being, by the time drivers drop out, that plug has already been weak. The female prongs are rounded pressure fit, and anything round makes little contact. I personally want CONTACT. known, stiff, firm full on plugs. Molex. Flat on flat, mucho grab. There is then no pressure on the board either where the solder joints tend to break. I do this not because i just want to screw with it, but because of how many 910 i have owned, and repaired for others given the percentage of failure in this plug, as well as the clear sonic benefit i have repeatedly witnessed. I do it BEFORE there is a problem. Preventative maintenance. But then, i am alone in this, for one main reason i think. Not to many others actually do it. That plug makes very little contact. Not acceptable. Pressure on board not acceptable. You mention gold plated fuse holders. So, clearly you want the best sound. Lets keep in mind the signal starts at the source, and goes through a series of real thin tin leads before it hits, and then exits the preamp rca. Then to the amp rca, more thin tin or whatever copper mixture before the fuse.
If you want your fuse holders to be quality, then i can only assume you want that plug to be quality to pass that fuse signal clean.

As far as what holds the led board, ther was at one point a metal wire screwed to the xover mid way. It was stiff, and it just fliped over the led board and held it gently. I will see if i have one and you can copy it.

Ive been inside and own a LOT of ADS and Braun. (Hundreds maybe) Ive learned what works for me, and simply try and pass it along. I hope its been of some help.
I do tend to stress points i know are important, so please forgive the passion.
 
drglasser said:
View attachment 1365765 View attachment 1365760 Allhart and GD70,
Thank you for the responses. I have read all the posts here, great information. I did see pics of the connector mod. I gave the connectors a look over and they seem fine. It felt like they were never pulled apart. However, if I detect driver dropout it will be the first place I’ll troubleshoot.
These speakers are early series with correct stands. I just added the led boards with a switch to turn them off but am curious how you fixed the board to the crossovers?. There are no clips or mounting brackets for it.
I have a box of tweeters including the correct ones for the series 2. I also have the OEM caps for upgrading but I have to say they sound exquisite just the way they are so I’m hesitant to change a thing.
Oh and new fuses are on the way. I don’t trust old fuses even if correct value. It’s funny that they really are the weak link in the system. We are so concerned with cable type and material,
This cap or that resistor and yet the signals always have to go through those spider web thin wires and lousy non-gold plated fuse clip holders. I always clean those as well with contact cleaner. Lol
Ill try some pics: main system and this new one
Ha they ended up at the top. I can’t find the other picture of the left side of the main system. It consists of two more racks of equipment plus turntable .
Click to expand...
Congrats on 910's. They look in nice shape.
Off topic. Are they Magnepans in first pic?
 
allhartfidelity said:
Sounds like you have a nice grasp on this, and some familiarity at least as well as a desire to play with it a bit. Its enjoyably. I am not a fan of recaping just for the sake of it, though on the 910 if any it is the axial for the woofer. I have a meter for testing (sencore) so if its not leaky, i leave it.
Thing about the plug mod, i do it as a matter of principal. Principal being, by the time drivers drop out, that plug has already been weak. The female prongs are rounded pressure fit, and anything round makes little contact. I personally want CONTACT. known, stiff, firm full on plugs. Molex. Flat on flat, mucho grab. There is then no pressure on the board either where the solder joints tend to break. I do this not because i just want to screw with it, but because of how many 910 i have owned, and repaired for others given the percentage of failure in this plug, as well as the clear sonic benefit i have repeatedly witnessed. I do it BEFORE there is a problem. Preventative maintenance. But then, i am alone in this, for one main reason i think. Not to many others actually do it. That plug makes very little contact. Not acceptable. Pressure on board not acceptable. You mention gold plated fuse holders. So, clearly you want the best sound. Lets keep in mind the signal starts at the source, and goes through a series of real thin tin leads before it hits, and then exits the preamp rca. Then to the amp rca, more thin tin or whatever copper mixture before the fuse.
If you want your fuse holders to be quality, then i can only assume you want that plug to be quality to pass that fuse signal clean.

As far as what holds the led board, ther was at one point a metal wire screwed to the xover mid way. It was stiff, and it just fliped over the led board and held it gently. I will see if i have one and you can copy it.

Ive been inside and own a LOT of ADS and Braun. (Hundreds maybe) Ive learned what works for me, and simply try and pass it along. I hope its been of some help.
I do tend to stress points i know are important, so please forgive the passion.
Click to expand...

I agree with all your points. I was simply pointing out some of the ridiculous things I come across.
I’m very familiar with connectors. I have a vintage foreign car that was made in 1985. It has many many multi pin connectors that fail periodically and cause all sorts of gremlins. In the forum supporting these cars very industrious individuals have developed replacement aircraft quality gold plated replacement connectors. Hundreds of pins, wires, bleeding fingers later I’m very comfortable replacing these. Your point is well made and one day when I have the time.....

Look forward to seeing your led board clip.

All of that Crown equipment you see in the picture of my main system I have replaced the electrolytics. As far as I am concerned they are consumables although with long life spans. If they are in equipment over 25 y/o they get replaced. If they haven’t changed in value yet they will soon. I do have the Mundorfs on order for that cap.
Thank you again for the suggestions and look forward to more conversations about these fine speakers or audio in general. I’ve been an avid enthusiast for 45 of my 60 some years.
 
Somewhere in the thread are pics of the wire retainers that hold the LED cards in place. I'll have to dig and find the page or just repost.
Your 910's look great! Your whole system in the first pic is jaw dropping!
Regarding the pesky plugs. I have the plugs in my watch list on fleabay, but haven't purchased them yet. I had a little driver drop out when I first got mine. I cleaned all contacts with Deoxit, and carefully and slightly bent the male pins for tighter contact, and have had no problems now for a couple years.
Glenn
 
By the way don’t use gold on tin connectors. Using gold phono plugs on those older tin phono jacks can cause a bad issue as well. Tin on tin, gold on gold.
 
GD70 said:
Somewhere in the thread are pics of the wire retainers that hold the LED cards in place. I'll have to dig and find the page or just repost.
Your 910's look great! Your whole system in the first pic is jaw dropping!
Regarding the pesky plugs. I have the plugs in my watch list on fleabay, but haven't purchased them yet. I had a little driver drop out when I first got mine. I cleaned all contacts with Deoxit, and carefully and slightly bent the male pins for tighter contact, and have had no problems now for a couple years.
Glenn
Click to expand...

Good solution. We do the same on the multi pin connectors on the Crown tape decks. The head leads terminate with a male multipin that plugs into its mate and locks on but it’s mounted to the chassis. Very delicate looking things but unique to these recorders.
Thank you for the comment on my main system. It’s the culmination of 40+ years of collecting and restoring. I have in “stock” way too many pieces of Crown vintage equipment. If any of you are interested in a crossover amp or preamp or equalizer I probably have more than one and would be happy to unload some of it.
 
Last edited:
drglasser said:
Good solution. We do the same on the multi pin connectors on the Crown tape decks. The head leads terminate with a male multipin that plugs into its mate and locks on but it’s mounted to the chassis. Very delicate looking things but unique to these recorders.
Thank you for the comment on my main system. It’s the culmination of 40+ years of collecting and restoring. I have in “stock” way too many pieces of Crown vintage equipment. If any of you are interested in a crossover amp or preamp or equalizer I probably have more than one and would be happy to unload some of it.
Click to expand...
I bet there would be some interest in those pieces. But, you need to become a subscriber to list gear for sale. 25 dollars a year is nothing and helps support the forum.
BTW, go to the official video thread, and in the first post are a couple videos of my 910’s. Shoot some videos and let’s hear your systems!
Happy Holidays!
Glenn
 
Last edited:
allhartfidelity said:
Yes, dissimilarity?
Click to expand...
Yes so dissimilar that it creates a voltage potential that causes tin oxide to develope on the gold. Creates not only a resistance but eventually lost connection. Takes from months to years depending on humidity. Here is a clip of the conversation on that other forum I mentioned.
FB6764E2-0730-429B-B5AC-95D326E6E4E9.png

For those reading this and are breaking into a sweat I’m not talking about the nickel plated ones. If they are shiny and bright most likely nickel, dull and powdery looking than most likely tin.
 
Last edited:
drglasser said:
Yes so dissimilar that it creates a voltage potential that causes tin oxide to develope on the gold. Creates not only a resistance but eventually lost connection. Takes from months to years depending on humidity. Here is a clip of the conversation on that other forum I mentioned.
View attachment 1366737

For those reading this and are breaking into a sweat I’m not talking about the nickel plated ones. If they are shiny and bright most likely nickel, dull and powdery looking than most likely tin.
Click to expand...
This is part fo the reason I post about this time of year about breaking and remaking all the connections in a stereo. Haven't done it this year because I'm in a 45-day redo the main rig journey right now and everything is getting touched, swapping gear and such. There won't be any connections that are over a few months old when I'm done.

I'm glad to say when I do post those thread starters, there are numerous comments that they have noticed an improved sound in their system. Some using DeoxiT as needed others that silver paste that gets everywhere.

Have you found a DL-2 Phono Module "B", yet? Or were you just looking for another one? Mine is still my primary LOMC phono amp.
 
drglasser said:
Yes so dissimilar that it creates a voltage potential that causes tin oxide to develope on the gold. Creates not only a resistance but eventually lost connection. Takes from months to years depending on humidity. Here is a clip of the conversation on that other forum I mentioned.
View attachment 1366737

For those reading this and are breaking into a sweat I’m not talking about the nickel plated ones. If they are shiny and bright most likely nickel, dull and powdery looking than most likely tin.
Click to expand...
Perhaps thats at least part of what ive seen on my Scott/Fisher/Mac gear from the 50's &60's. While I've attributed it to corrosion, ive at times felt it odd when the chassis was so nice but SOME of the inputs terrible, so that insight is appriciated. So the nickle on other gear must essentially be a form of cathodic protection? Either all or in part. While the outside ground area is one thing with its large surface contact area, the center pin i much smaller. Ive got a little brush i use to burnish this, but wondered if there was a coating to use to help protect it. Some liquid metal of some sort. Ever hear of any products for this? Though i am not a huge proponent for keeping these old connectors which are often to close together for me anyway.
 
Last edited:
drglasser said:
Good solution. We do the same on the multi pin connectors on the Crown tape decks. The head leads terminate with a male multipin that plugs into its mate and locks on but it’s mounted to the chassis. Very delicate looking things but unique to these recorders.
Thank you for the comment on my main system. It’s the culmination of 40+ years of collecting and restoring. I have in “stock” way too many pieces of Crown vintage equipment. If any of you are interested in a crossover amp or preamp or equalizer I probably have more than one and would be happy to unload some of it.
Click to expand...
The retaining LED card wire.
0310161439a_resized.jpg.742f4f57f415e781a5029a46bce386e8.jpg index-5.jpg index-6.jpg index-7.jpg index-8.jpg
 
allhartfidelity said:
Perhaps thats at least part of what ive seen on my Scott/Fisher/Mac gear from the 50's &60's. While I've attributed it to corrosion, ive at times felt it odd when the chassis was so nice but SOME of the inputs terrible, so that insight is appriciated. So the nickle on other gear must essentially be a form of cathodic protection? Either all or in part. While the outside ground area is one thing with its large surface contact area, the center pin i much smaller. Ive got a little brush i use to burnish this, but wondered if there was a coating to use to help protect it. Some liquid metal of some sort. Ever hear of any products for this? Though i am not a huge proponent for keeping these old connectors which are often to close together for me anyway.
Click to expand...

I would think after burnishing just keep gold away. I don’t know of any coatings but perhaps dielectric grease?
 
Blue Shadow said:
This is part fo the reason I post about this time of year about breaking and remaking all the connections in a stereo. Haven't done it this year because I'm in a 45-day redo the main rig journey right now and everything is getting touched, swapping gear and such. There won't be any connections that are over a few months old when I'm done.

I'm glad to say when I do post those thread starters, there are numerous comments that they have noticed an improved sound in their system. Some using DeoxiT as needed others that silver paste that gets everywhere.

Have you found a DL-2 Phono Module "B", yet? Or were you just looking for another one? Mine is still my primary LOMC phono amp.
Click to expand...

Yes found. Lol. I recently acquired a Rabco tonearm SL8E I think and am toying with the idea of putting a MC cartridge in it. I’m so comfortable with my SME/V15 IV I’m very hesitant to make the change but I’ve never had a linear tonearm to toy with before.
 
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