ADS L1090. L1290 and L1590 bases, an option for the speaker, add stability. Discussion.

Let me try and provide that this weekend... I have (now) both model speakers and the 1290 bases, so I'll do dimensions for all three. Setting a reminder now.

John
 
Glenn, no full part shots to see? Just the details on sizes and such? Great to have that info but be nice to have an overall view to put it all together. I posted pics I found for the 1290. I have the 1590 and am interested in making a set for my speakers. I see they do look different.
 
Question: in some of the pictures there is a "hole" on all 4 corners thru the bottom, is the "stand" made to be screwed to the bottom of the speakers (1590)?????
 
Glenn, no full part shots to see? Just the details on sizes and such? Great to have that info but be nice to have an overall view to put it all together. I posted pics I found for the 1290. I have the 1590 and am interested in making a set for my speakers. I see they do look different.
Glenn, no full part shots to see? Just the details on sizes and such? Great to have that info but be nice to have an overall view to put it all together. I posted pics I found for the 1290. I have the 1590 and am interested in making a set for my speakers. I see they do look different.
I have some and will post tonight.
 
Full pics!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
IMG_2598.jpg
 

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those are completely different than the ones for the 1290 I posted. Look easier to make with just the one cutout for the wiring.
 
those are completely different than the ones for the 1290 I posted. Look easier to make with just the one cutout for the wiring.
There's two cut outs for the wiring, the larger rectangular hole and a smaller cutout on the bottom for the wires to exit.
Then the 1/8 inch recess the speaker sits in. Also, made of MDF.
 
The wiring openings in the 1590 base don't look as sophisticated as the ones for the 1290. just the rectangle to get the wire through from the speaker and then a small channel to get the wire out from under the speaker. Looking at the 1590 bottom in the first post in the thread it does not appear that the opening is directly over the connection and would need to be set in place when the bases are installed. The 1290 base appears to allow more leeway in the wiring on the bottom of the speaker.

The other thing I noticed is I mentioned that the 1590 has a ½" bottom extension on the speaker but this base only has a 1/8" depression to fit the speaker into. This would leave a 3/8" reveal around the veneered section of the speaker. I believe this 1/8" depth on the base is to keep the strength of the MDF base which looks to be 1".

The 1590 isn't trying to tip over like I have heard the smaller speakers in the line might want to do more quickly. Sure with kids and animals it may be more important to have the bases on the 1590, but generally they would not be necessary.

Curious as to how these would be spiked? The base has holes to screw them to the speaker but the spikes is used in those holes would make the speaker look unusual as well as not provide the wider footprint of the base for support. The base does have what appear to be hard plastic feet so maybe this option was not designed for spikes. There are no marks on the speaker for the base to mount. If one were to have the best of both worlds, spikes or bases, it would be nice to use the same holes for both, but I guess for added support (anti-tipping) it would make sense to use some of the outrigger spikes that are available on the market. to get an idea of what I'm talking about, check out this sold listing on USaudiomart for the Von Schweikert VR-2 speakers, a column speaker with bases similar to these ADS and outrigger spike sets. http://www.usaudiomart.com/details/649127089-von_schweikert_vr2_speakers_black_woutriggers/ This listing shows that adding what appear to be Soundocity outrigger spikes may cause issues if one is to use the bases with outriggers and maybe that should be left for the speaker alone, bases being used for different circumstances. Probably better for a hard floor and spikes for carpet.
 
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Glenn, no full part shots to see? Just the details on sizes and such? Great to have that info but be nice to have an overall view to put it all together. I posted pics I found for the 1290. I have the 1590 and am interested in making a set for my speakers. I see they do look different.
See Mikes pic right above your post.
 
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The wiring openings in the 1590 base don't look as sophisticated as the ones for the 1290. just the rectangle to get the wire through from the speaker and then a small channel to get the wire out from under the speaker. Looking at the 1590 bottom in the first post in the thread it does not appear that the opening is directly over the connection and would need to be set in place when the bases are installed. The 1290 base appears to allow more leeway in the wiring on the bottom of the speaker.

The other thing I noticed is I mentioned that the 1590 has a ½" bottom extension on the speaker but this base only has a 1/8" depression to fit the speaker into. This would leave a 3/8" reveal around the veneered section of the speaker. I believe this 1/8" depth on the base is to keep the strength of the MDF base which looks to be 1".

The 1590 isn't trying to tip over like I have heard the smaller speakers in the line might want to do more quickly. Sure with kids and animals it may be more important to have the bases on the 1590, but generally they would not be necessary.

Curious as to how these would be spiked? The base has holes to screw them to the speaker but the spikes is used in those holes would make the speaker look unusual as well as not provide the wider footprint of the base for support. The base does have what appear to be hard plastic feet so maybe this option was not designed for spikes. There are no marks on the speaker for the base to mount. If one were to have the best of both worlds, spikes or bases, it would be nice to use the same holes for both, but I guess for added support (anti-tipping) it would make sense to use some of the outrigger spikes that are available on the market. to get an idea of what I'm talking about, check out this sold listing on USaudiomart for the Von Schweikert VR-2 speakers, a column speaker with bases similar to these ADS and outrigger spike sets. http://www.usaudiomart.com/details/649127089-von_schweikert_vr2_speakers_black_woutriggers/ This listing shows that adding what appear to be Soundocity outrigger spikes may cause issues if one is to use the bases with outriggers and maybe that should be left for the speaker alone, bases being used for different circumstances. Probably better for a hard floor and spikes for carpet.
To bad they didnt have a pic with the bases & spikes mounted.
The little plastic feet have little 1/4 inch nails embedded into them for fastening. We actually replaced them with rubber feet from Home Depot because a couple of the originals were missing.
 

Ever any thought to using smallish versions of those flat "carpet slider" stand-offs versus rubber?

I have them glued at the bottom of the "60's-looking coffee table legs" on my E-V cabinets and they are a life saver when I need to scoot the speaker away from the wall.

Or - on second thought, nevermind; as I think of it, my E-V "end tables" are not top-heavy as your ADS towers appear to be and sliding your towers around could probably topple them.
 
I installed these right after I bought my L1290s. adjustable spikes or rubber feet if you have carpet. The spikes lock them in well on carpet. I’ll have to see if I can find the box. It’s been 6 or so years at least.image.jpg
 
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