StimpyWan
Addicted Member
Me thinks @StimpyWan is only trying to get a free beer!!
Thanks, but I'm not a beer fan...!
After Connecting Cable, Analog Inputs Died on Receiver
- Thread starter dastinger
- Start date
-
- Tags
- analog inputs fried receiver
Thanks, but I'm not a beer fan...!
dastinger
Member
Look at eBay Item #113103477493. Input board(s) from a 2803 with two of the exact chips you need, plus a -17 as well. Seller says the unit blew up on speaker shorting which would be in the power amp section all the way on the other side of the receiver, so you should be fine. He's a bit pricey, but send him a message and make him a low ball offer. I don't imagine used boards from lower-end Denon receivers from 15 years ago are a particularly hot item...
No beer necessary, and it would be premature anyway. Let's get you up and running first, OK?
I'm a respectable Southern Boy. I drink iced tea...!
Believe it's just 'tea' ('sweet' or 'unsweet') way down south in Dixie; the "iced" part is understood. Northern 'tea' is the steaming brewed stuff and translates to 'hot tea' in the South. Same kinda thing as with 'skiing' (water vs. snow).
OOPS! Sorry, I made a BIG mistake.
The 3803 needs TWO of the chips to pass both L and R of the analog input signals. I was confusing the 3803 with the 3802 which uses only one of your input selector chips for both L and R and a smaller one for the VCR wrap around. So it makes good sense for you to tighten up on that 2803 board with the pair of input selector chips. Else, make sure you order TWO from your Asian source. Sorry for mixup; tough to keep all the various models and vintages straight sometimes.
P.S. Like I said before, if things don't work out, we can do some board swaps with known goods to get you up and running.
dastinger
Member
That would be the perfect solution, but I'd be importing it from outside the EU. Given the fact that the price is above €22, I'd be looking at extra customs charges. So, let's say he'd accept half of the listed price. $15 + $24 shipping = $39 (€33~) + 23% VAT + customs handling charges (€10) = €50 ($59). That compared to €15 and a bit of handy work... and that's IF the seller accepts a 50% discount.
But I'll save the listing in case I mess up somewhere along the way. Thank you, you've been of so much help!
Alright, if I end up fixing this thing, you won't be able to pass on that beer
Last edited:
dastinger
Member
No problem! I bought two anyway so I'm good. And the €15 price I told you about on the post above is for the two chips already. Those things are pretty cheap.
In case I end up needing it or realising it's a better option, I'll reach out for the swap. And I'll keep this thread updated with how this goes.
Great! Good luck with your project(s).
If it's not too much of a PITA, I'd change one chip at a time, test the receiver's functionality, then swap out the other one if still needed. Not just to (possibly) save you the cost of a chip, but it's a good practice in electronics to go step by step to reduce variables and to gather as much info as possible (essential practices in dealing with the complexity of such gizmos). Good luck with your repair!
dastinger
Member
Thanks for the advice!
I have a question, though. The left channel was completely screwed up just like you saw on the video. The right channel was working but really really low, only a faint sound could be heard. Doesn't this mean that probably both chips are fried? If not, I suppose I should start by the left channel one?
Yup, you got it. Probably both chips blown since both L (one chip) and R (the other chip) affected. Still, it's (usually) good practice to proceed step-by-step. You'll find once you've disassembled and (partially) reassembled the receiver a couple times, you can do it in 5 minutes flat. It's buttoning up all the boards, dressing connectors, and securing chassis components that takes forever.
P.S. Real pros install chip sockets so they can swap out the chips in no time if they're bad out of the box or if the frying event reoccurs (if it happened once, ...).
dastinger
Member
Thanks once again! I may try finding chip sockets locally, but I won't be waiting another 20 days or so for them to arrive if I buy online. Let's hope it doesn't happen again.
Also, something else happened during this time involving the same Macbook Pro, and this time, no live connections. I didn't mention it because I think it's something for another thread, but I used a pair of old powered speakers this past weekend for music in my son's bday party. I use them connected to a USB sound card connected to my MBP. My MBP's charger broke a year ago and I'm using a non-original one that I believe isn't grounded properly.
Everything went fine and the next day, I wanted to use the speakers again. Connected the USB to my MBP, another small spark between the chassis and the cable, just like it happened with the 3.5mm jack and the left channel speaker blew up. Now, as soon as I turn it on, there's unbearable loud crackling. Suffice to say that I'm gonna buy an original charger ASAP before I bust anything else, but now I have another issue on my hands. How to fix the speaker... or if it's even worth it given the fact that I can buy a used one for €70. It's not even a great speaker so I'm not worried, but I always used them for small parties like this. Oh well... all this to say that the culprit was probably the Macbook charger.
PS: I just want to add that the speakers were not turned on when I connected the sound card.
Also, something else happened during this time involving the same Macbook Pro, and this time, no live connections. I didn't mention it because I think it's something for another thread, but I used a pair of old powered speakers this past weekend for music in my son's bday party. I use them connected to a USB sound card connected to my MBP. My MBP's charger broke a year ago and I'm using a non-original one that I believe isn't grounded properly.
Everything went fine and the next day, I wanted to use the speakers again. Connected the USB to my MBP, another small spark between the chassis and the cable, just like it happened with the 3.5mm jack and the left channel speaker blew up. Now, as soon as I turn it on, there's unbearable loud crackling. Suffice to say that I'm gonna buy an original charger ASAP before I bust anything else, but now I have another issue on my hands. How to fix the speaker... or if it's even worth it given the fact that I can buy a used one for €70. It's not even a great speaker so I'm not worried, but I always used them for small parties like this. Oh well... all this to say that the culprit was probably the Macbook charger.
PS: I just want to add that the speakers were not turned on when I connected the sound card.
Aha! Effective, although somewhat expensive sleuthing. Sounds like those poor input switching chips in the Denon 3803 never had a chance with what you threw at them. For shame!
Blown speakers are generally trash, although it is possible to recone them (with new voice coil), but it takes a certain amount of experience to effect a serviceable repair. Also, cheap speakers may not have replacement parts available; suggest you check with a repair tech (blow by customer service) at the manufacturer.
The charging circuit in the MBP is fairly complex (see Louis Rossmann's YouTube channel for details on the "onewire charging circuit" for MagSafe chargers).
dastinger
Member
So, we swapped the left channel chip and, voila, everything works again! It wasn't easy because my friend doesn't have a hot air station, but he has done it. Thank you so much, @awillia6, without you I don't know what how much I'd be spending or, who knows, throwing the receiver away. Thank you A LOT and to everyone who chimed in to help as well. What about that beer now?
Now, another thing. This one is probably not an issue, but it messed with me a long time ago and now again, I just had forgotten about it. Since we're at it, might as well ask to see if I have another problem on my hands.
The Marantz I used when the Denon didn't work was a SR-73. Why can it produce A LOT more volume than the Denon? Looking at the specs of one and the other, I don't really see why that would happen but, truth is, the volume knob of the Marantz at 9 o'clock, gives me the same volume as the Denon at -20db. Is this normal? The speakers are a pair of B&W DM305. Same sources, same cables, same everything. Is this to be expected? I mean, I used the Denon for parties 13 years ago on a 375 square feet room and it filled up the room so I know it should be capable of more. Speakers were different though. Is that it?
Great to hear you guys managed to keep the 3803 out of the landfill (and now have a backup chip in stock as well!). I wonder why only one chip was needed to fix the unit. Seems like you had audio issues with both channels and, from the schematic, one chip handles switching the L inputs, the other the R inputs. Hmm...
On your Marantz/Denon volume discrepancy, a few thoughts come to mind. Given that the speakers were the same, the difference is in the output power delivered by the power amp section to the speakers, irrespective of any particular volume level or knob position. You can hook up a pair of speakers, input a 440Hz tone from an internet-connected computer (NOT the MBP!!!!) running a free tone generator app, bring the volume up SLOWLY from zero volume until you can hear it comfortably and either mark the knob position or note displayed volume level), then measure with a DVM or similar the AC voltage at the speaker terminals or output jacks on the receiver (whichever is easier). Then, swap in the other unit and bring up its volume (again from zero) until the voltage read previously is again displayed on your meter. Note the volume level displayed or knob position. For a given (arbitrary) volume level. the two receivers are producing the same power with the same input signal ONLY at these exact volume knob position (Marantz) and volume display (Denon). You can then vary the arbitrary listening level, repeat the process, and gauge the (non)linearity of the units' volume controls.
One other quick check you can do on your 3803 is to put the unit into 5- or 7-channel stereo mode and use other than the Front channel outputs to listen to some music. What I do is leave one of the Fronts connected and move the other speaker's banana plugs (I refuse to use bare wire; short circuit waiting to happen, IMO) to the Surround A, then the Surround Back jacks and listen for any volume differences. If there is a volume mismatch, you've got something amiss and further troubleshooting is needed to pinpoint it.
Oh, and while you're at it, measure the DC offset at each speaker terminal to make sure nothing there is amiss as well. Should read in the range of +/- a few DC mV.
Good luck and good listening.
P.S. I gave up drinking some time ago, but I'll hoist a Dasani to you and your pluck at taking on and succeeding in bringing your "patient" through its ordeal. Now give Louis Rossmann a call in NYC, tell him what you did to your poor MBP, and see what he has to say about your other "problem child."
UPDATE: Edited the volume matching section above for clarity and utility.
On your Marantz/Denon volume discrepancy, a few thoughts come to mind. Given that the speakers were the same, the difference is in the output power delivered by the power amp section to the speakers, irrespective of any particular volume level or knob position. You can hook up a pair of speakers, input a 440Hz tone from an internet-connected computer (NOT the MBP!!!!) running a free tone generator app, bring the volume up SLOWLY from zero volume until you can hear it comfortably and either mark the knob position or note displayed volume level), then measure with a DVM or similar the AC voltage at the speaker terminals or output jacks on the receiver (whichever is easier). Then, swap in the other unit and bring up its volume (again from zero) until the voltage read previously is again displayed on your meter. Note the volume level displayed or knob position. For a given (arbitrary) volume level. the two receivers are producing the same power with the same input signal ONLY at these exact volume knob position (Marantz) and volume display (Denon). You can then vary the arbitrary listening level, repeat the process, and gauge the (non)linearity of the units' volume controls.
One other quick check you can do on your 3803 is to put the unit into 5- or 7-channel stereo mode and use other than the Front channel outputs to listen to some music. What I do is leave one of the Fronts connected and move the other speaker's banana plugs (I refuse to use bare wire; short circuit waiting to happen, IMO) to the Surround A, then the Surround Back jacks and listen for any volume differences. If there is a volume mismatch, you've got something amiss and further troubleshooting is needed to pinpoint it.
Oh, and while you're at it, measure the DC offset at each speaker terminal to make sure nothing there is amiss as well. Should read in the range of +/- a few DC mV.
Good luck and good listening.
P.S. I gave up drinking some time ago, but I'll hoist a Dasani to you and your pluck at taking on and succeeding in bringing your "patient" through its ordeal. Now give Louis Rossmann a call in NYC, tell him what you did to your poor MBP, and see what he has to say about your other "problem child."
UPDATE: Edited the volume matching section above for clarity and utility.
Last edited:
dastinger
Member
Thanks a lot for your insight and advice. I have a multimeter that I'll use this weekend to measure everything and report back.
The issue on the MBP is, most probably, related to the charger only. The grounding pole stopped making contact or something like that. I'll need to buy an original one asap and I'm pretty sure that will be solved.
The issue on the MBP is, most probably, related to the charger only. The grounding pole stopped making contact or something like that. I'll need to buy an original one asap and I'm pretty sure that will be solved.
dastinger
Member
Hello!
Sorry for reviving this thread, but after not using the receiver for a while I connected it today to record some of my vinyl records to the computer and the left channel is way quieter than the right one
I'm not sure what happened, but I was ready to go ahead and see if I could get the price of that board down in case it was still available. It isn't though and I was wondering if you could help me find another? I'm sorry, but I don't know exactly what to look for.Thank you!
