AIWA 1260 & 1250 belt replacement with pictures

Swan1493

New Member
Back when AIWA made decent quality decks was the cool wedge style deck the 1260 (and 1250). I've seen several for sale with non-functioning counter mechanism. I took pictures when replacing the belts that the counter uses and thought I would make this my first how-to post.
IMG_4756.JPG
 
Last edited:
Remove the bottom screws, here is what you'll see and the 3 belts I replaced. The old belts had broken and melted so it took me a little bit to figure out what was missing. It takes 3 square belts that I used from my supple of generic belts since exact fit isn't that important here.
IMG_5425.JPG
 
Last edited:
remove the screws holding the input board and set aside as seen on the top of the picture. 3 screws as circled will loosen the main PCB which then can be lifted to a service position. The green box on the left side of the main PCB is a hook that needs to be undone. The green box on the bottom of the PCB is cable that needs to be disconnected.

IMG_5426.JPG
 
removed the four bolts on the front panel and lifted off. Here is a picture after the removal of the top
IMG_5432.JPG
 
I don't have a picture of the removal of the tape holder mechanism, here is a picture of it removed and where the belt will go
IMG_5433.JPG
 
cleaned the heads and the rollers while I was in here. The belt connects the take up reel and that white pulley.
IMG_5434.JPG
 
Here is a picture of the belt to connect the pulley the actual counter mechanism under the main PCB.
this picture is sideways, you can orient yourself based on the rod the hook connects to as seen on the bottom of the picture.
IMG_5436.JPG
 
While inside, you might want to hit the long switches with contact cleaner. This was causing me audible noise before cleaning and sounded much better after.
IMG_5429.JPG
 
reassemble and enjoy ZZ Top. IMG_9062.JPG IMG_6464.JPG IMG_6732.JPG
IMG_0671.JPG
This deck sure has a lot of protection from dust with a large cover and slider cover over the cassette mechanism. I can't remember how much the slider needs to be disassembled to replace the belts, I took it all apart and cleaned and lubed it anyway.
 
Thanks for the pictures and guide, I am restoring an Aiwa AD-1250 that must have been stored in an attic - the belts were totally disintegrated. An new set of belts enables fast forward, fast reverse and the counter to work fine - but in 'play' the take up reel does not move due to the idler wheel not rotating. The audio sounds great for 2 seconds until I stop play with tape 'bunch up' inside the cassette. I have lightly sanded the idler wheel rubber, and it looks OK. In 'play' there is apparent pressure on the idler wheel pushing it between the capstan shaft and take up spool - yet it stays still - like the idler wheel has shrunk ?. My idler wheel is 21mm in diameter, the Aiwa AD-1260 and AD-2000 mechanisms are similar, appreciate any advice - thanks
 
Did this belt replacement last night. "Belt kits" with four belts are around $25 on eBay and elsewhere, but you can get a set of 100 generic square belts in various sizes for around $5. I did the latter, and my Aiwa 1250 is now running great. The original belts had become goo. They still looked like normal rubber belts, but as soon as you touched them, they smeared into a nasty black liquid. It may help others to note that once I did the replacement, it took a little bit of "encouragement" to get rewind working smoothly again. I think time and dust had gummed things up a bit, so I just ran a tape in FF a couple of times through a full cassette length to get RW working at full throttle again. Thanks again to the OP for the post and pics!
 
I have an Aiwa AD-2000. I'm currently adjusting play and rec levels. But I don't find any way to adjust the VU meters. I don't have a service manual either. The 1260 seems to be identical, except for the VU meter. Are there trimmers for the VU meters?


IMG_3744.jpg

IMG_3742.jpg
 
I'll solve the riddle. The trimmers for adjusting the VU meters are on the prints of the sliders for volume and rec level. You don't see them. The front panel must be removed. Now you can see two small holes. Among them are trimmers SFR 107 and 108. I have used the SM of AD-1250 for help. Only then could I locate the trimmers.
 
First of all....Fantastic work on the how to tutorial.
I've replaced belts and repaired everything from Sony wm to dragons...

But this is a different breed all together..
I feel like im in the ball park, or at least getting warmer.
BUT....
Can any of you folks tell me yay or nay?
And iF nay...please elaborate.

P.s.. I have looked at the photos in the tutorial countless timwa but at this point it may as well be a brick wall. I will say theres no doubt I would have passed the project along had old faithful not saved the day yet again (the audio k community).
 

Attachments

  • 20200509_132953.jpg
    20200509_132953.jpg
    107.2 KB · Views: 38
  • 20200509_132940.jpg
    20200509_132940.jpg
    134.6 KB · Views: 39
  • 20200509_132932.jpg
    20200509_132932.jpg
    122.4 KB · Views: 35
Thanks for the pictures and guide, I am restoring an Aiwa AD-1250 that must have been stored in an attic - the belts were totally disintegrated. An new set of belts enables fast forward, fast reverse and the counter to work fine - but in 'play' the take up reel does not move due to the idler wheel not rotating. The audio sounds great for 2 seconds until I stop play with tape 'bunch up' inside the cassette. I have lightly sanded the idler wheel rubber, and it looks OK. In 'play' there is apparent pressure on the idler wheel pushing it between the capstan shaft and take up spool - yet it stays still - like the idler wheel has shrunk ?. My idler wheel is 21mm in diameter, the Aiwa AD-1260 and AD-2000 mechanisms are similar, appreciate any advice - thanks

Hey there! Saw your post on this thread, I'm experiencing exactly the same issue. Did you ever get yours figured out? So frustrating to get all the new belts in, along with dealing with the tar-like old belt material (I'm convinced it breeds once it's in the open air, stuff is persistently everywhere) only to find the thing isn't ready to perform.

Thanks again, appreciate any updates you might have.
 
Hi JB8, sorry for reply delay, yes I did solve the mystery. Went to local hardware store and got the smallest plastic tubing they had, like 2mm inside diameter, 3mm outside diameter. Cut a piece 4 or 5mm long and slipped it over the capstan spindle, and it's what makes contact with the idler wheel. Looks like the original small rubber "tube" disintegrates so badly there is no sign of it left, and it's not included in a belt kit. Very fiddly to do, but needed, good luck, the AD-1250 looks fantastic, and mine sounded great after finishing the restoration.
 
  • Like
Reactions: JB8
I'm back a couple years later to add this... my deck was running slow, and I was having a heck of a time figuring out how to adjust the speed. The typical speed adjustment screw for the motor can be accessed from the front side (under the front side aluminum face plate). There is a hole above where the cassette goes. Inside that hole is a white, rubbery thingamajig (it looks solid) that is protecting the motor speed adjustment screw. Place a flat head jeweler's screwdriver through the white rubbery part (even though it looks solid, it has slits in it) and you will be able to adjust the motor/tape speed.
 

Attachments

  • Aiwa AD-1250 speed adjustment.jpg
    Aiwa AD-1250 speed adjustment.jpg
    88.5 KB · Views: 24
Back
Top Bottom