Alpage AL-300 cassette

Ebzen

Member
Hi

I just added this one to my little vintage collection.
Bought it cheap on a auction site. However, it needs some tender love and care.

The main drive belt is very slack. And the fast forward seems to slow a bit down. That could be the tire on the reel table.

Does anyone know what size capstan drive belt this fellow uses ? I doubt its a nonstandard one. Those japanese fellows seems be very equal.

The heads is made out of ferrite, and looks like in very good shape. So does the pinch rollers.

Best regards

E. Jensen
 

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Alpage was the for Alpine before Luxman took over Alpage, so you might want to search for the Alpine AL-300.
 
nice deck ! Didn't know anyone reached Denmark ....
about the belt, there is no standard - you have to meassure the approximate length
 
Hi im back

After i posted the topic here, i started to work a bit on the deck, and after 30 min, i had the complete drive assembly out. From my spare parts, i had a new belt for a Sony TC-K2. And the belt actually fits OK. It still slipping alittle in the beginning, but it works now. (Better then before with the stretched gooey belt)

So i tried recording on a Phillips FE1 tape. And holy moly, after calibrating the deck on the front. It sounds SO good. I have never had a deck sounding THAT good. And thats on a NORMAL tape using Dolby.

But the drive assembly is a pain to take apart. But a nice way to spend a sunday afternoon on. :)

Regards

E. Jensen
 
... From my spare parts, i had a new belt for a Sony TC-K2. And the belt actually fits OK. It still slipping alittle in the beginning, but it works now. (Better then before with the stretched gooey belt) ...

So a Sony TC-K2 takes a FBS 10.2 belt. Correct? Does anyone have the correct belt dimensions for the Alpage AL-300 (all 3 belts?)

Thanks
 
I think I figured it out. I'll document and post what I used, but in the interim:

al3001.jpg
 
I can't recall if I sent it in or not ... I don't see it there, so I must not have.

I see a different scan of it is over at hifiengine.com and a copy of the service manual too.
 
Belts:

What I found on a French audio forum (and my conversions and matching-up using the turntableneedles.com belt info):

Capstan: 251L x 5w x 0.6t = 9.9 inches long = FBM 9.9
Counter: 205L x 1w x 1t = 8.0 inches long = SBO 8.0
Sub-belt: 162L x 1.3w x 1.3t = 6.4 inches long = SBS 6.4 or perhaps a SBT 6.3

The battery in my calipers is dead, so I can't give exact thicknesses for what I pulled out of the deck - but roughly:

Capstan: 262 x 3w x < 1t = 10.3 inches long = probably a stretched FBS 9.9). Note this belt didn't ride properly centered on the motor hub ... and speed control had to be cranked all the way +ve.
Counter: 210 x <1w x <1t = 8.2 inches long = probably a stretched SBO 8.0
Sub-belt: 166L x >1w x >1t = 6.5 inches long = probably a streched SBS 6.4

What I had in the 'parts bin' that seems to work just fine:

Capstan: FBM 9.6
Counter: SBS 8.0
Sub-belt: SBS 6.2

Hope that helps those that follow.
 
My Alpage AL-300

Hello all, thought I might try an revive this old AL-300 thread instead of making a new one..

I also live in Denmark and is a very happy owner of an Alpage AL-300.

I bought it off the bay not working - so I changed the drive belts and the right pressure roller (Have not found the smaller left one yet - STILL LOOKING) I also changed the idler tires with some special O-rings - it works great! (Have extra idler tires in stock)

But now to my problem.. I have run the deck for a long time now recording on CrO2 tapes and I’m very happy! I then sort of ran out of empty CrO2 tapes and started using the "normal" type I tapes I have :thumbsdn: I can't get them proper calibrated with the bias cal nobs on the front. I then tried to switch back and forth between Tape and Source while adjusting to ty to listen my way to a good recording - but no luck.. The tape is easy saturated and in all my attempts the sound is very heavy on the treble – it hurts in your ears..

The tape that I used is an Sony HF - like this one:
http://www.stereodisco.sk/kazety/sony/sony_hf_2_o.jpg

When recording on CrO2 there is no problem in calibrating the tapes, but with “type I” there is - I never reach the "Cal" line in the meters..

HELP, PLEASE! :tears:
 
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Hi Loddenstuen, I also have an nice Alpage Al-300 that needs a replacement of the idle tires as it is not fast forwarding at all. Where did you get yours or what size are they? How did you reach to those tires as they are well hidden behind the front metal plate and it seems to me that I need to get all the mechanism out of the recorder to reach those idlers.
Thank you in advance for your pieces of advices.
 
On ebay you can get a beltkit
http://www.ebay.de/itm/Service-Kit-...79?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_77&hash=item1e930c99f7
I bought one of this new in early 80.s but it got involved in a fatal accident caused by a bookshelf giving up so the chassis and front was bent. I kept it for many years but decided some years ago to throw it away. Sadly it was one of the best decks in the 80,s some people still think it was superior to Nakamichi of that time.
 
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Hello all, thought I might try an revive this old AL-300 thread instead of making a new one..

I also live in Denmark and is a very happy owner of an Alpage AL-300.

I bought it off the bay not working - so I changed the drive belts and the right pressure roller (Have not found the smaller left one yet - STILL LOOKING) I also changed the idler tires with some special O-rings - it works great! (Have extra idler tires in stock)

But now to my problem.. I have run the deck for a long time now recording on CrO2 tapes and I’m very happy! I then sort of ran out of empty CrO2 tapes and started using the "normal" type I tapes I have :thumbsdn: I can't get them proper calibrated with the bias cal nobs on the front. I then tried to switch back and forth between Tape and Source while adjusting to ty to listen my way to a good recording - but no luck.. The tape is easy saturated and in all my attempts the sound is very heavy on the treble – it hurts in your ears..

The tape that I used is an Sony HF - like this one:
http://www.stereodisco.sk/kazety/sony/sony_hf_2_o.jpg

When recording on CrO2 there is no problem in calibrating the tapes, but with “type I” there is - I never reach the "Cal" line in the meters..

HELP, PLEASE! :tears:
In the interim, you might consider buying some tapes from National Audio Company (NAC)-no affiliation. You do have to buy a quantity, and I gather you are not in the US. I am not sure about the shipping......

You might want to edit your profile to include a geographic location-it can help others make suggestions that depend on location, etc.
 
Hi Loddenstuen, I also have an nice Alpage Al-300 that needs a replacement of the idle tires as it is not fast forwarding at all. Where did you get yours or what size are they? How did you reach to those tires as they are well hidden behind the front metal plate and it seems to me that I need to get all the mechanism out of the recorder to reach those idlers.
Thank you in advance for your pieces of advices.
Hi Comodus,
The ones that i stock is some special silicone o-rings. I bought different "softness" and tried them out to see which ones were the best. When installing a torque cassette the torque is now rock steady :) I could send you some - where are you located?

It is a bit of a job to get to the idler tires. You have to carefully remove all the buttons, the cassette hatch (just pull it upwards) and the bar around the LEDs. Then carefully remove the front - this is where you have to be very careful not to break anything that is held in place bu the front plate. Then you can access the drive mechanism. I think i removed the plate in front of the hubs for the reels and gained acces to the two hubs that way. The hubs are held in place by a VERY small clip + washer. Be careful not to break them or loose them. The hubs can be pulled of the axles and it's time for a tire change. Here it is also critical not to break the edge of the plastic hub when prying off the old tires - the plastik has become brittle! Maybe the best way is to cut the old tire.

Good luck :)
 
Belts:

What I found on a French audio forum (and my conversions and matching-up using the turntableneedles.com belt info):

Capstan: 251L x 5w x 0.6t = 9.9 inches long = FBM 9.9
Counter: 205L x 1w x 1t = 8.0 inches long = SBO 8.0
Sub-belt: 162L x 1.3w x 1.3t = 6.4 inches long = SBS 6.4 or perhaps a SBT 6.3

The battery in my calipers is dead, so I can't give exact thicknesses for what I pulled out of the deck - but roughly:

Capstan: 262 x 3w x < 1t = 10.3 inches long = probably a stretched FBS 9.9). Note this belt didn't ride properly centered on the motor hub ... and speed control had to be cranked all the way +ve.
Counter: 210 x <1w x <1t = 8.2 inches long = probably a stretched SBO 8.0
Sub-belt: 166L x >1w x >1t = 6.5 inches long = probably a streched SBS 6.4

What I had in the 'parts bin' that seems to work just fine:

Capstan: FBM 9.6
Counter: SBS 8.0
Sub-belt: SBS 6.2

Hope that helps those that follow.
Belts:

What I found on a French audio forum (and my conversions and matching-up using the turntableneedles.com belt info):

Capstan: 251L x 5w x 0.6t = 9.9 inches long = FBM 9.9
Counter: 205L x 1w x 1t = 8.0 inches long = SBO 8.0
Sub-belt: 162L x 1.3w x 1.3t = 6.4 inches long = SBS 6.4 or perhaps a SBT 6.3

The battery in my calipers is dead, so I can't give exact thicknesses for what I pulled out of the deck - but roughly:

Capstan: 262 x 3w x < 1t = 10.3 inches long = probably a stretched FBS 9.9). Note this belt didn't ride properly centered on the motor hub ... and speed control had to be cranked all the way +ve.
Counter: 210 x <1w x <1t = 8.2 inches long = probably a stretched SBO 8.0
Sub-belt: 166L x >1w x >1t = 6.5 inches long = probably a streched SBS 6.4

What I had in the 'parts bin' that seems to work just fine:

Capstan: FBM 9.6
Counter: SBS 8.0
Sub-belt: SBS 6.2

Hope that helps those that follow.
Thanks for the useful info but I'd like to know the meaning of the acronyms. I am trying acronymfinder.com but no luck.

Thanks in advance.
Jesus
 
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