Amp on active sub no good....direct wiring possible?

[Checkylad]

My active sub quit, checked all the trouble shoot things, still nothing, makes lights dim a bit when plugged into wall outlet so power cord is good, check fuse, was burned out, replaced fuse, still nothing. Can I simply wire from the binding posts on the back of sub to the binding posts on my amp? is this a possibility?

 

[mhardy6647]

No but if you get into the guts of the subwoofer and amp, you should be able to disconnect the amplifier and do at least something like what you want to do.

The trick will be whether it used an active crossover and/or some sort of contouring (EQ) provided by the amp module. If so, you'll have to either add a passive crossover and/or use an outboard, active subwoofer amplifier. The driver may or may not be worth the investment.

Do you know if the driver in it has a single or dual voice coil?

What kind of subwoofer is it?

PS many on-board and outboard subwoofer amplifier options exist; PE has some cool ones (I recently bought one of the "250 watt" class D plate amps with DSP for an active subwoofer project, e.g.)

https://www.parts-express.com/cat/subwoofer-plate-amplifiers/332
https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-sa1000-subwoofer-amplifier-rack-mountable--300-811
https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-sa230-230w-subwoofer-amplifier--300-813

 

[Freddymac2]

Yes you can do anything. But it won't work. If you connect to those posts you may blow your amp!!!!! You would have to get a crossover and an amp to do the same thing as what you need. Two sub amp output wires have to be removed from the woofer, and taped up. two new wires have to be run to the new woofer amp being sure that the phasing is reversed. The other ends of the wires have to be connected to the original woofer. you will have to feed the sub woofer crossover with a preamp output signal You have to adjust the crossover level and cutoff point so it will mesh with your main speakers.

What brand and model is the sub? If you go to your local Pawn Shop, and buy a $50 to $150 sub. Just keep in mind that most of the newer cheap subs are just JUNK!!!!!!

 

[Checkylad]

No but if you get into the guts of the subwoofer and amp, you should be able to disconnect the amplifier and do at least something like what you want to do.

The trick will be whether it used an active crossover and/or some sort of contouring (EQ) provided by the amp module. If so, you'll have to either add a passive crossover and/or use an outboard, active subwoofer amplifier. The driver may or may not be worth the investment.

Do you know if the driver in it has a single or dual voice coil?

What kind of subwoofer is it?

PS many on-board and outboard subwoofer amplifier options exist; PE has some cool ones (I recently bought one of the "250 watt" class D plate amps with DSP for an active subwoofer project, e.g.)

https://www.parts-express.com/cat/subwoofer-plate-amplifiers/332
https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-sa1000-subwoofer-amplifier-rack-mountable--300-811
https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-sa230-230w-subwoofer-amplifier--300-813

Yes you can do anything. But it won't work. If you connect to those posts you may blow your amp!!!!! You would have to get a crossover and an amp to do the same thing as what you need. Two sub amp output wires have to be removed from the woofer, and taped up. two new wires have to be run to the new woofer amp being sure that the phasing is reversed. The other ends of the wires have to be connected to the original woofer. you will have to feed the sub woofer crossover with a preamp output signal You have to adjust the crossover level and cutoff point so it will mesh with your main speakers.

What brand and model is the sub? If you go to your local Pawn Shop, and buy a $50 to $150 sub. Just keep in mind that most of the newer cheap subs are just JUNK!!!!!!

It is a POLK DSW MICROPRO 2000 from about 2011....bought it used for $125, sounding fantastic at the guys house, they were about $1300 in 2011, worked for about two weeks then quit

 

[Checkylad]

No but if you get into the guts of the subwoofer and amp, you should be able to disconnect the amplifier and do at least something like what you want to do.

The trick will be whether it used an active crossover and/or some sort of contouring (EQ) provided by the amp module. If so, you'll have to either add a passive crossover and/or use an outboard, active subwoofer amplifier. The driver may or may not be worth the investment.

Do you know if the driver in it has a single or dual voice coil?

What kind of subwoofer is it?

PS many on-board and outboard subwoofer amplifier options exist; PE has some cool ones (I recently bought one of the "250 watt" class D plate amps with DSP for an active subwoofer project, e.g.)

https://www.parts-express.com/cat/subwoofer-plate-amplifiers/332
https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-sa1000-subwoofer-amplifier-rack-mountable--300-811
https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-sa230-230w-subwoofer-amplifier--300-813

Yes you can do anything. But it won't work. If you connect to those posts you may blow your amp!!!!! You would have to get a crossover and an amp to do the same thing as what you need. Two sub amp output wires have to be removed from the woofer, and taped up. two new wires have to be run to the new woofer amp being sure that the phasing is reversed. The other ends of the wires have to be connected to the original woofer. you will have to feed the sub woofer crossover with a preamp output signal You have to adjust the crossover level and cutoff point so it will mesh with your main speakers.

What brand and model is the sub? If you go to your local Pawn Shop, and buy a $50 to $150 sub. Just keep in mind that most of the newer cheap subs are just JUNK!!!!!!

It is a POLK DSW MICROPRO 2000 from 2011, got it used, tested at the guy's house sounded excellent, used it for a couple weeks at home and it just quit.
In 2011 they were about $1300 new....very fast and right size for my small man cave 11' x 14' ALSO using a 12" passive Canton sub and a bunch of other good speakers....Polk says mail it in to Calif., I don't think so

 

[mhardy6647]

It is a POLK DSW MICROPRO 2000 from about 2011....bought it used for $125, sounding fantastic at the guys house, they were about $1300 in 2011, worked for about two weeks then quit

Since it is fairly modern, and perhaps fairly decent, too, you might want to either contact Polk Customer Service or try a post at the Polk Forum to see if it can be repaired (at a reasonable cost).

 

[Freddymac2]

That should be a pretty good unit, although an 8" woof is small. Polk is a very good company and they may swap the plate /bash amp on a non warenty repair. This is the best way, because if they know about a failure point in the amp they will get you an improved amp. The fact that the lights dim when you turn it on means that it is doing something. They may tell you the have an internal fuse. Do you have any power lights when it is on and did the fuse blow when you replaced it

 

[Freddymac2]

You have to see if the woofer is smoked, you might have had your levels too high. A 1.5 vdc battery should move the cone a bit if it is ok