Another Electro Voice Interface D/Sentry VI thread.

Here are all the pages just in case you're missing one/some.... and.... a direct scan of a glossy brochure I have/had. (may have given it to my nephew when I gave him the speakers...) ouch....did I say gave? :crazy:

Thanks for posting all those scans! As an Interface D owner who is (very slowly) working on restoring a pair, I appreciate it!
 
So technically just pulling out and using the external equalizer.

Just saw this...

Just to be 100% sure you're on the same page, the answer is 'no'

You pull out your existing plug and replace it with the biamp plug (which redirects the path of the signal on the passive, which is on the other side of the base)

Once you swap the plugs, you're then ready to biamp (yes, with an active crossover upstream)

This isn't a picture of "my" crossover as mine are gone. It will however, give you an idea of what's on the other side of the base that the speaker sits on.
 

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Thanks for posting all those scans! As an Interface D owner who is (very slowly) working on restoring a pair, I appreciate it!

You're certainly welcome (I've posted them before but it's been a long time and I don't know if they're still here)

If you've not got yours up & running yet (I'm betting you still have the pesky woofer suffering from foam rot)... you will find out that they're a mighty stout speaker and have the ability to grip the foundation of your house and shake it.

I had mine mated with a 3bx and a subharmonic synthesizer (also dbx) and it was amazing what they could do with regard to foundation shaking.

I also had a pair of LaScalas. It was interesting comparing the two in same room...

The EV's would shake the foundation but not pound you as much in the chest. The LaScalas were champs at direct assault on pounding you in the chest. Hit them both together and you quickly became the 'best friend' of everyone on the floor of your dorm.

(picture of system in dorm room, EV's were on back wall so they're out of picture)
 

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I received my reconed and refoamed woofers back from @GordonW and will be installing them tonight or tomorrow. I will be hearing them for the very first time, soon. It will take a while as the I have completely disconnected the crossovers and base plates and also removed the VMRs. I took lots of photos and notes when I disconnected the crossovers. Still, it's a lot of wires to reconnect and I tend to work slowly and triple check my work to avoid disasters.

Next up will be rebuilding the crossovers - specifically recapping them. I'll measure the resistors and see if any of them need replaced. I'll probably keep the stock inductors, but try to move them further apart and orient them at right angles to minimize any mutual inductance.

So, first the caps... Using the simplified crossover schematic that @PeterSchut posted in reply #38, I have a couple questions.

1) In the VMR circuit, is there any reason not to replace the two parallel 4.5uF caps with a single 9.0uF part (as long as the voltage rating is high enough)? Seems like a good way to simplify things a little and maybe save a buck or two.

2) Also in the VMR circuit, any reason not to use an 18.0 uF +/-5% to replace the original 17.7uF +/-10%cap? That's only a difference of +1.7% in nominal value compared to the original, and with the tighter tolerance, the replacement will be well within the tolerance of the original cap.

3) in the woofer circuit, I was thinking about just using a big Dayton Audio DMPC-90 90uF 250V Polypropylene cap. I know I can combine smaller values in parallel, but prefer to keep things simple when possible. This is just a shunt cap in the woofer circuit and not in the signal path. In my limited experience, as long as these shunt caps are of the correct value, they don't seem to have much impact on signal quality - certainly not as much as the signal path caps in the tweeter and midrange circuits. In fact, in the past, I have often used Mundorf E-Cap NP electrolytics in these woofer shunt circuits as a way to save both money and space. That would be another option here. Any other recommendations?

I think that will be get started. I'm sure I'll be back for more advice and wisdom from those who have already passed down this path...
 
You're certainly welcome (I've posted them before but it's been a long time and I don't know if they're still here)

If you've not got yours up & running yet (I'm betting you still have the pesky woofer suffering from foam rot)... you will find out that they're a mighty stout speaker and have the ability to grip the foundation of your house and shake it.

Not yet, but soon... See my post below.

(picture of system in dorm room, EV's were on back wall so they're out of picture)

I've been meaning to ask you this before; where did you go to college? My first, and only, prior experience with Interface Ds was my freshman year of college. A sophomore that lived across the hall in my dorm had a pair in his dorm room. There were actually some pretty decent stereos on our floor, but he ALWAYs won when it came to our friendly 3rd floor stereo wars. I kinda felt sorry for the international students on the second floor (ok, not really, but I do in hindsight) as we were all into Led Zeppelin, Black Sabbath and a little Ted Nugent back then. I would imagine college students in the late 1970s that had Electro Voice Interface Ds in their dorm rooms was a pretty small, exclusive club.
 
Miami of Ohio, Freshman year 1979

(for me) a funny story... (I've told this before as well)

You know how rambunctious kids might be their freshman year. I happened to not be one of them. I was always early to bed, early to rise. That didn't blend very well with everyone running around crazed until 3-4 A.M. pounding their stereo's.

Any of my (and my room-mates) comments were essentially greeted with some disdain.

As a side bar, hardly anyone knew the above resided in our room because we rarely flexed its potential...after all, we were both pretty respectful of others situations...

However, this getting abused every night gets old....

One weekend, I went home (lived 11 miles away). I had a timer that I setup.

I turned system on, put DSOTM on the TT,placed the needle right where those chimes start. Put the volume about 2:00 (which would be absolutely thunderous) and set the system to start something like 5:00 Saturday morning for 2-3 minutes, then shut off.

I got in my car & went home.

When I returned Sunday evening, there was heck to pay! Seems that woke just about the entire building and everyone was mad as a hornet that their (precious) sleep time was rudely interrupted...

It did however, make the point and my memory says from that point on, everyone was a bit more respectful of others at night (especially during the week)

I still get a kick out of that memory.

:rockon:
 
Miami of Ohio, Freshman year 1979.

Close, but not quite. I was about 150 miles north of you. My freshman year was 1979-80. I went to a small private school in Angola, IN. At the time, it was called Tri-State University, due to the proximity to the Ohio and Michigan state lines.

The guy across the hall from me was from Niles, MI, which only 6 miles east of Buchanan, MI where they made the Interface D speakers back in the day. I think he had a relative, an uncle perhaps, that worked at EV at the time and was able to purchase his Interface Ds at a substantial discount.
 
.
So, first the caps... Using the simplified crossover schematic that @PeterSchut posted in reply #38, I have a couple questions.

1) In the VMR circuit, is there any reason not to replace the two parallel 4.5uF caps with a single 9.0uF part (as long as the voltage rating is high enough)? Seems like a good way to simplify things a little and maybe save a buck or two.

2) Also in the VMR circuit, any reason not to use an 18.0 uF +/-5% to replace the original 17.7uF +/-10%cap? That's only a difference of +1.7% in nominal value compared to the original, and with the tighter tolerance, the replacement will be well within the tolerance of the original cap.

3) in the woofer circuit, I was thinking about just using a big Dayton Audio DMPC-90 90uF 250V Polypropylene cap. I know I can combine smaller values in parallel, but prefer to keep things simple when possible. This is just a shunt cap in the woofer circuit and not in the signal path. In my limited experience, as long as these shunt caps are of the correct value, they don't seem to have much impact on signal quality - certainly not as much as the signal path caps in the tweeter and midrange circuits. In fact, in the past, I have often used Mundorf E-Cap NP electrolytics in these woofer shunt circuits as a way to save both money and space. That would be another option here. Any other recommendations?

1) Yes, that should be fine. The Dayton poly caps are 250v. Modern caps should have a slightly lower DCR than older ones, so a single cap should be functionally equivalent.

2) That should also be OK.

3) The poly cap would be OK- but if the original was an electrolytic, I'd be inclined to replace it with a good electrolytic...

Regards,
Gordon.
 
Just saw this...

Just to be 100% sure you're on the same page, the answer is 'no'

You pull out your existing plug and replace it with the biamp plug (which redirects the path of the signal on the passive, which is on the other side of the base)

Once you swap the plugs, you're then ready to biamp (yes, with an active crossover upstream)

Thanks for confirming, now I also know my actual problem - I just don't have the bi-amp plug. S***

Can I ask how big is your room in which your speakers are playing in? I've recognizable problems with standing waves :/
 
This isn't a picture of "my" crossover as mine are gone. It will however, give you an idea of what's on the other side of the base that the speaker sits on.

Here's mine if someone's interested. Do you guys know if there's a particular reason why I could open the '2nd' port which is obiouisly only locked with screws. I read that the Sentry had another tuning than the Interface Delta. Don't know if it's just a rumor though.

Cheers
Patt
 

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Can I ask how big is your room in which your speakers are playing in?

So there is no misunderstanding, realize that my EV's are gone. I gave them to my wife's nephew, along with an extra pair of VMR's, ST-350's and some other goodies...

That said, my room is around 14 1/2 x 19 and on one side, I have a 6' opening to another room.

It's pretty amazing what you can stuff into a room if you are a bit lucky.

2 Klipsch LaScalas, 1 Danley DTS-10, 2 Klipsch Jubilee's and a Partridge in a pear tree!

(have third LaScala for center use sitting in garage... stand under TV came from my (now deceased) father in laws house so it's going to be difficult to ask the wife to move that somewhere in lieu of another 'teenager speaker')

https://community.klipsch.com/index.php?/topic/166321-find-the-danley-dts-10/#comment-2061116
 
So there is no misunderstanding, realize that my EV's are gone. I gave them to my wife's nephew, along with an extra pair of VMR's, ST-350's and some other goodies...

That said, my room is around 14 1/2 x 19 and on one side, I have a 6' opening to another room.

It's pretty amazing what you can stuff into a room if you are a bit lucky.

2 Klipsch LaScalas, 1 Danley DTS-10, 2 Klipsch Jubilee's and a Partridge in a pear tree!

(have third LaScala for center use sitting in garage... stand under TV came from my (now deceased) father in laws house so it's going to be difficult to ask the wife to move that somewhere in lieu of another 'teenager speaker')

https://community.klipsch.com/index.php?/topic/166321-find-the-danley-dts-10/#comment-2061116

How do like the tapped horn with music?
 
1) Yes, that should be fine. The Dayton poly caps are 250v. Modern caps should have a slightly lower DCR than older ones, so a single cap should be functionally equivalent.

2) That should also be OK.

3) The poly cap would be OK- but if the original was an electrolytic, I'd be inclined to replace it with a good electrolytic...

Regards,
Gordon.

@GordonW - thanks for your input. It's always appreciated.

The original 90uF woofer cap is some sort of film cap. Here's what it looks like:

Interface_D_Crossover_2.jpg


It's labeled 90uF - 60 V AC.

Here's a photo of the entire crossover:

Interface_D_Crossover_1.jpg


And here's the left side that shows the midrange and tweeter circuits:

Interface_D_Crossover_3.jpg


The two smaller black caps on the far left are the two 4.5uF caps I proposed replacing with a single 9uF. The large yellow cap near the top is the 17.7uF +/-10% I proposed replacing with an 18uF +/-5%. The smaller yellow cap partially obscured by the wiring harness is the 1.5uF tweeter cap.

Rather than try to salvage this mess, when I get around to rebuilding the crossovers, I think I'll just make a new board, paint it flat back and separate and re-orient those inductors on the bottom left. I want to get them farther apart - probably move down the terminal strips and caps/resistors so I can move the large one on the far left to the top, spread apart the remaining two and orient them so their fields are at 90 degrees. That should minimize any mutual inductance.

The only electrolytic is the small axial lead in the protection circuit. That will also be replaced with a similar part.
 
Just do one board at a time- so you can use the other one as a reference for connections.

Regards,
Gordon.
 
Fail!

I just finished hooking up the crossover and mounting the drivers in the cabinet of the first speaker. I'm getting sound out of the woofer and the tweeter, but nothing out of the VMR. Dead silent. I'll check my wiring tomorrow and if that looks good, I'll check the DC resistance of the VMR (I thought I'd checked them both when I originally pulled them from the cabinets, but I'll have to go back over my notes to confirm).

Bummer, I was hoping I'd at least get to hear one of them tonight.
 
Also, if anyone has a higher resolution scan of the complete crossover schematic, can you please either post it or send it to me by private message. The one back on page 2 is completely illegible. In addition to double checking my wiring, I'd also like to see how the default (non-biamp) connections are jumpered at the tube socket.
 
Fail!

I just finished hooking up the crossover and mounting the drivers in the cabinet of the first speaker. I'm getting sound out of the woofer and the tweeter, but nothing out of the VMR. Dead silent. I'll check my wiring tomorrow and if that looks good, I'll check the DC resistance of the VMR (I thought I'd checked them both when I originally pulled them from the cabinets, but I'll have to go back over my notes to confirm).

Bummer, I was hoping I'd at least get to hear one of them tonight.

Well, that was much easier than I thought. I found the problem within 30 seconds of unbolting the bottom plate so I could have access to the crossover. I had a short between one of the leads of the 17.7uF cap and INPUT-. I was unintentionally completely bypassing the mid and removing it from the circuit.

I had actually hooked everything up correctly, but the insulation melted off the one of the lead wires going to the midrange when I was soldering it to the terminal strip and that exposed a bit of bare wire that was physically making contact with one of the leads of the 17.7uF cap. Physically separating them fixed the problem, but I plan to place some heat shrink tubing over the lead wire and resolder everything just to completely eliminate any possibility of future shorts.

In the mean time, I'm listening to Steely Dan Gaucho in mono. I'll try to get the other one all hooked up and reassembled tonight so I can finally hear my Interface Ds in stereo!

Also, thanks to @Patt_ for sending me a higher resolution copy of the Interface Delta schematics. That helped me check for correct stuffing of the jumpers on the bottom of the tube socket before I started taking things apart. Thanks Patt!
 
BTW, I am currently listening without the EQ. That will be the next step after I know both speakers are working properly.
 
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