Another Flippin' DeOxit Thread...

RJolly87

Well-Known Member
...but please, bear with me...

In my journeys on the interwebbz, I have come to appreciate there are 3 DeOxit products pertinent to our applications.

D5:
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Gold:
hog5s6.jpg

Faderlube:
$_35.JPG


Now, confession time.... I'm cheap. I don't like to spend money that I don't have to.

Having spoke with others, complaints were voiced about the aerosol application of DeOxit, namely, that it ends up getting everywhere. I do not fancy this prospect, mainly because it's not cheap.

So, I put hands on this:
https://www.amazon.com/Caig-DeoxIT-...e=UTF8&qid=1533601785&sr=8-17&keywords=deoxit
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Admittedly, the cost to yield ratio is extremely low in this application, it was a cheap buy in to help me decide how I feel about the application method.

In short, I appreciated this method, although I would end up getting a 25ml bottle with needle applicator.

But, I also have a couple cans of this:
https://www.amazon.com/CRC-05103-El...r=1-2&keywords=crc+electrical+contact+cleaner

615sexJNW8L._SL1499_.jpg


As I am just getting in to this, I am not sure what to expect. On paper, it seems as though the CRC cleaner, when used in conjunction with Gold and Faderlube, could possibly replace the DeOxit step. However, in looking at it while composing this post, Deoxit does mention the benefit of addressing corrosion, where as Gold seems to simply protect against it in the future.

For those practiced in the art of cleaning and treating pots, what does your experience tell you? Use all 4 products mentioned? Get all 3 DeOxit products in both the needle applicators and aerosol, because every device is different? Skip the cheap stuff all together because it won't actually do anything in this application?

Thank you all, for any guidance and wisdom you share.

PS: Just did my first DeOxit round on a Realistic ST 19 to pair with first generation Minimus 7s. It's AWESOME!
 
You bring up all good points. I have been using DeOxit for many years now. In general, if a pot. is noisy, I use the DeOxit D5 (5%) spray but very sparingly. A friend sits the can on a table and just hits the button with his palm to release just a bit of spray. I will flush it harder but always use a rag underneath it to catch the excess.The mess people are talking about is the 'new, improved' can with the attached straw, like WD40 has. Don't buy that, buy the newest Professional version where they go back to the original, valve regulated version. For cleaning tube pins, open rotary switches, etc, I dab on D100 (100%) DeOxit. It comes with a small brush applicator. The Gold I only use on gold contacts. The faderlube I found to be redundant to D5.
One other thing that's good to have is Fader Grease from CAIG. It's the best for getting sliders to move well.
 
I buy DeOxit D5 and F5 buy the case for my shop - I find that it works better than anything else that's available.

The CRC cleaner is to harsh for most electronic components - it is primarily a solvent and it is probably great to use on large electrical plugs, as shown on the can. I would never use it to rejuvenate a 40+ year old volume pot.

There is a certain benefit to the flushing action that you get when performing the first cleaning of a 40 year old fader control, that you just won't get with a squeeze tube of D5 or F5

Fader Grease is a necessary final step after cleaning fader controls - I buy it in the pint containers

I don't find choosing products based on their cost over their performance to ever be a good choice - Chris
 
I don't find choosing products based on their cost over their performance to ever be a good choice - Chris

BINGO!!!--DeOxit (CAIG) products are expensive--I'll give you that one, but they WORK! You can half-ass it with whatever you want, but in some cases, you do get what you pay for.
 
I buy DeOxit D5 and F5 buy the case for my shop - I find that it works better than anything else that's available.

The CRC cleaner is to harsh for most electronic components - it is primarily a solvent and it is probably great to use on large electrical plugs, as shown on the can. I would never use it to rejuvenate a 40+ year old volume pot.

There is a certain benefit to the flushing action that you get when performing the first cleaning of a 40 year old fader control, that you just won't get with a squeeze tube of D5 or F5

Fader Grease is a necessary final step after cleaning fader controls - I buy it in the pint containers

I don't find choosing products based on their cost over their performance to ever be a good choice - Chris
That's an interesting argument presented. That then has me leaning towards the aerosol for D5, and then the dropper for F5.

I'm guessing the fader grease is used to give the smooth silky slide to the plastic of the control itself? Is it just fader slides you would use it on, or turn knobs as well?
 
To get it from the horses mouth:

Deoxit Instructions.jpg

D5 and any from that style has a solvent that is thought to be naptha. Naptha can cause issues with some pots contacts. The naptha, or whatever it is, has been known to cause the contacts to fall off inside the pot or switch casing. Somewhere in the archives of AK past, there is a good amount about this phenomena. Also D5 will remove internal lubrication from pots and switches. I prefer to avoid D5 and all the other 5s. I buy D100, F100, S100. Using either a needle bottle or a large syringe I make a solution of 50%/50% Deoxit/non aqueous or low aqueous isopropyl alcohol. This mix works great for flushing out all kind of devices to get the particulate matter removed from the casing. This also will remove the lubrication, and on some pots you can feel the contacts scrape inside the case as you turn the knob. This, I would normally follow with an application of D100. After drying, I would follow with F100.

Now to the subject of Gold and Shield. Gold is indeed designed for use on gold contacts because it is not as rough on the contacts. Also, which is not often considered, Gold will protect contacts well in non-extreme conditions. I live in Florida which has a terrible issue of atmospheric humidity for most of the year. I use Shield. Shield will seal and protect your contacts in a rough environment.

Many will apply Deoxit only and not realize that within a year or so, the corrosion will return and there you go having to reopen your unit and do it all over again. I have had units come back from one or more of our guru techs and have the switch scratching in a year or less. Pay the money. Use one of the products that seal. There are other companies that provide cleaners and sealers. CRC is one that has a good reputation. I have used their products on my boat for years, with great results around salt water. For my stereo stuff I only use the Caig product because they work for me.
 
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