Hmmm, that's just about where mine are set.
The mids don't seem "hot" to me but I do think I'd like to hear the QLS-1 in at least 500+ sq' feet listening space. to let them soar at realistic listening levels.
Another QLS-1 thread
- Thread starter slimpikkins
- Start date
The mids don't seem "hot" to me but I do think I'd like to hear the QLS-1 in at least 500+ sq' feet listening space. to let them soar at realistic listening levels.
slimpikkins
Super Member
I would love to have them at least 12 feet apart in a large room with some nice big amps. Our house will have to do for now. The hotness of my mids is not just these speakers. Could be me, my room, or gear. Also my occupation is in a loud environment in which I do use protection. Hearing test always come out pretty good but going on thirty years of this stuff has to take its toll even with protection.
Jim
Jim
chef free
Super Member
I covered most of the floor with a nice Afghan rug on two layers of padding, then made some absorption panels from 2'x4' pieces of 4" Owens Corning 703 for the first reflection points on the side walls, I filled the speaker wall corners top to bottom with cheap sleeping bags, and made a 6'x6' ceiling panel filled with pink R13 insulation, I made diffusers from PVC pipe of various sizes, cut length-wise and mounted on most of the wall behind the listener, and put up a bunch of 2" 2'x4' panels randomly around the room and at places where I heard reflections. The QLS is a dipole so I haven't treated the speaker wall at all. Since I have turned off the rear tweeter, I have been thinking of making some more of the 4" panels.
slimpikkins
Super Member
Lots of great info here. Are the sleeping bags filled with anything? I love the idea of the sleeping bags. I was going to have my wife make something I could fill with insulation of some sort for my room corners floor to cieling. Pinning up pillows works as well but looks a little strange. I have put off treating my room with anything perminent because I need to remove some old panelling and wall paper. With old plaster walls this will be a slugfest...
chef free
Super Member
While the room is 19 feet wide, it has 1 1/2' free-standing, metal shelving for the last eight feet of the 22' long walls. The shelves make that part of the room 16 feet wide. I had carefully arranged all the stuff on the shelves so that there is a mix of hard and soft surfaces, and I stored our family's sleeping bags in the corners of the top and bottom shelves to act as bass traps. One day I was at Big Five Sporting Goods and they had a sale on sleeping bags, $12 for a four pound sleeping bag. I bought six and stuffed the five shelves in the corners with them. It really tightened up the bass and somewhat tamed the 80 Hz rise in that room. Crude but effective.
slimpikkins
Super Member
Thanks Ken, really enjoying these. Having a hard time getting all the mids to work properly though. I thought all was well until I listened to some of my Telrac classical recordings. Hearing a little distortion in brass passages in two of my mids. It is very slight but it is there. Need to take them apart and try to center the coil better.
Jim
Jim
slimpikkins
Super Member
It's been a while, I did get those mids sorted out. Reiligned the vc inside the magnet as two were off a bit. Now the mids are all perfect. The tweeters have lost some volume so I removed the woofer and checked the arrays. No good, impedance too high. Reflowed all the tweeter solder buttons using Chef free's method without removing them from the cabinet. Back down to 2.9 ohm on both arrays. Maybe one or two which were fine before started acting up. Should have just did them all in the first place. So I'm still messing around with these...Side note, I think I hear the tweeters more in my qls2 even with them working properly...
The t nuts on the woofers were a big mistake. They will not dig in to the flake board enough and come loose. Then they just spin and spin winding up your poly fill, wires and everything else. Hurricane nuts will strip out having the same result. I made a superior t nut using 5/16 x 1" lag bolts grinding them down to 5/8 long, drilling and tapping them for 8-32. Here's a couple picks. You could also use 10-32 screw inserts found at Home Depot but I like mine better. Extremely solid, will never come loose and can be removed with a 1/2 socket.
The t nuts on the woofers were a big mistake. They will not dig in to the flake board enough and come loose. Then they just spin and spin winding up your poly fill, wires and everything else. Hurricane nuts will strip out having the same result. I made a superior t nut using 5/16 x 1" lag bolts grinding them down to 5/8 long, drilling and tapping them for 8-32. Here's a couple picks. You could also use 10-32 screw inserts found at Home Depot but I like mine better. Extremely solid, will never come loose and can be removed with a 1/2 socket.
Attachments
Last edited:
Same problem, so while in the process of rebuilding the x/over, I glued up some 1X2"s under the woofer for four "new" screw holes with the benefit of some internal bracing to boot.
slimpikkins
Super Member
Nice
