Another sx-1010 Resto

craxx6969

Well-Known Member
Recent purchase from another AK'r. Missing the following due to damage or someone else trying to fix the unit

Power Switch and knob
Volume Pot and knob

Relay is TOAST:yikes::yikes:

Someone bypassed the relay and wow is it fried on the inside (photo to follow tomorrow).

It also looks like the power boards were worked on and I'll need to address those as I move from each board.

I am posting the recap list from the dbase and would like a review of it before I do any ordering. This list does not include the soft start relay so I'll need a mouser part # for that.

thanks in advance.

JT

Recap List:
Muting Assembly (AWM-039-A)

AWM-039-A: C1: .47uF 50v CEA: 667-ECQ-V1H474JL .47uF 50v
AWM-039-A: C2: 47uF 50v CEA: 647-UPW1H470MED 47uF 50v

Equalizer Amp Assembly (AWF-013-0)

AWF-013-0: C1: 2.2uF 25v CSSA: 647-UKL1H2R2KDDANA 2.2uF 50v
AWF-013-0: C2: 2.2uF 25v CSSA: 647-UKL1H2R2KDDANA 2.2uF 50v
AWF-013-0: C5: 470uF 6.3v CEANL: 647-UKL1C471KPD 470uF 16v
AWF-013-0: C6: 470uF 6.3v CEANL: 647-UKL1C471KPD 470uF 16v
AWF-013-0: C9: 100uF 6.3v CEANL: 647-UKL1E101KPDANA 100uF 25v
AWF-013-0: C10: 100uF 6.3v CEANL: 647-UKL1E101KPDANA 100uF 25v
AWF-013-0: C11: 10uF 10v CEANL: 647-UKL1C100MDDANA 10uF 16v
AWF-013-0: C12: 10uF 10v CEANL: 647-UKL1C100MDDANA 10uF 16v
AWF-013-0: C19: 100uF 25v CEANL: 647-UKL1E101KPDANA 100uF 25v
AWF-013-0: C20: 100uF 25v CEANL: 647-UKL1E101KPDANA 100uF 25v
AWF-013-0: C21: 220uF 16v CEANL: 647-UKL1C221KPDANA 220uF 16v

Q1: 2SA725: 512-KSA992FBU
Q2: 2SA725: 512-KSA992FBU
Q3: 2SA725: 512-KSA992FBU
Q4: 2SA725: 512-KSA992FBU

Control Amp Assembly (AWG-027-0) (Check C49-52, can be 100uF 16v instead of 47uF 16v like the manual states)

AWG-027-0: C1: .33uF 25v: CSSA: 667-ECQ-V1H334JL .33uF 50v
AWG-027-0: C2: .33uF 25v: CSSA: 667-ECQ-V1H334JL .33uF 50v
AWG-027-0: C7: 100uF 10v CEA: 647-UPW1E101MED 100uF 25v
AWG-027-0: C8: 100uF 10v CEA: 647-UPW1E101MED 100uF 25v
AWG-027-0: C13: 2.2uF 25v CSSA: 647-UKL1H2R2KDDANA 2.2uF 50v
AWG-027-0: C14: 2.2uF 25v CSSA: 647-UKL1H2R2KDDANA 2.2uF 50v
AWG-027-0: C15: 4.7uF 35v CEA: 647-UPW1V4R7MDD 4.7uF 35v
AWG-027-0: C16: 4.7uF 35v CEA: 647-UPW1V4R7MDD 4.7uF 35v
AWG-027-0: C23: 4.7uF 25v CEANL: 647-UKL1H4R7KDDANA 4.7uF 50v
AWG-027-0: C24: 4.7uF 25v CEANL: 647-UKL1H4R7KDDANA 4.7uF 50v
AWG-027-0: C25: 10uF 16v CEA: 647-UPW1E100MDD 10uF 25v
AWG-027-0: C26: 10uF 16v CEA: 647-UPW1E100MDD 10uF 25v
AWG-027-0: C29: 100uF 10v CEA: 647-UPW1E101MED 100uF 25v
AWG-027-0: C30: 100uF 10v CEA: 647-UPW1E101MED 100uF 25v
AWG-027-0: C31: 4.7uF 35v CEA: 647-UPW1V4R7MDD 4.7uF 35v
AWG-027-0: C32: 4.7uF 35v CEA: 647-UPW1V4R7MDD 4.7uF 35v
AWG-027-0: C39: 4.7uF 25v CEANL: 647-UKL1H4R7KDDANA 4.7uF 50v
AWG-027-0: C40: 4.7uF 25v CEANL: 647-UKL1H4R7KDDANA 4.7uF 50v
AWG-027-0: C41: 10uF 16v CEA: 647-UPW1E100MDD 10uF 25v
AWG-027-0: C42: 10uF 16v CEA: 647-UPW1E100MDD 10uF 25v
AWG-027-0: C45: 100uF 10v CEA: 647-UPW1E101MED 100uF 25v
AWG-027-0: C46: 100uF 10v CEA: 647-UPW1E101MED 100uF 25v
AWG-027-0: C47: 2.2uF 25v CSSA: 647-UKL1H2R2KDDANA 2.2uF 50v
AWG-027-0: C48: 2.2uF 25v CSSA: 647-UKL1H2R2KDDANA 2.2uF 50v
AWG-027-0: C49: 47uF 16v CEA or 100uF 16v CEA: 647-UPW1E470MDD 47uF 25v or 647-UPW1C101MED 100uF 16v
AWG-027-0: C50: 47uF 16v CEA or 100uF 16v CEA: 647-UPW1E470MDD 47uF 25v or 647-UPW1C101MED 100uF 16v
AWG-027-0: C51: 47uF 16v CEA or 100uF 16v CEA: 647-UPW1E470MDD 47uF 25v or 647-UPW1C101MED 100uF 16v
AWG-027-0: C52: 47uF 16v CEA or 100uF 16v CEA: 647-UPW1E470MDD 47uF 25v or 647-UPW1C101MED 100uF 16v

Q1: 2SA725: 512-KSA992FBU
Q2: 2SA725: 512-KSA992FBU

Power Amp Assembly (AWH-032-0) (Times two) (Check board number, the D version does not have the 1.5uF cap.)

AWH-032-0: C1: .68uF 25v CSSA: 667-ECQ-V1H684JL .68uF 50v
AWH-032-0: C2: 1.5uF 25v CSSA: 647-UKL1H1R5MDD1TA 1.5uF 50v
AWH-032-0: C4: 10uF 16v CEA: 647-UPW1E100MDD 10uF 25v
AWH-032-0: C8: 330uF 6.3v CEA: 647-UPW1A331MPD 330uF 10v

Q1: 2SA726: 512-KSA992FBU
Q2: 2SA726: 512-KSA992FBU
Q3: 2SA726: 512-KSA992FBU
Q5: 2SC1451: 512-KSC3503ESTU
Q6: 2SC1451: 512-KSC3503ESTU

Protection Assembly (AWM-062-0)

AWM-062-0: C1: .22uF 10v CSSA: 667-ECQ-V1H224JL2 .22uF 50v
AWM-062-0: C2: .22uF 10v CSSA: 667-ECQ-V1H224JL2 .22uF 50v
AWM-062-0: C3: 330uF 6.3v CEA: 647-UPW1A331MPD 330uF 10v
AWM-062-0: C4: 330uF 6.3v CEA: 647-UPW1A331MPD 330uF 10v
AWM-062-0: C5: 4.7uF 25v CEA: 647-UPW1V4R7MDD 4.7uF 35v
AWM-062-0: C6: 100uF 16v CEA: 647-UPW1E101MED 100uF 25v

Q7: 2SC1384: 512-KSC2690AYS

Power Supply Assembly (AWR-054-0)

AWR-054-0: C8: 470uF 80v CEA: 647-UPW2A471MHD 470uF 100v
AWR-054-0: C9: 470uF 80v CEA: 647-UPW2A471MHD 470uF 100v
AWR-054-0: C10: 100uF 63v CEA: 647-UPW1J101MPD6 100uF 63v
AWR-054-0: C11: 100uF 63v CEA: 647-UPW1J101MPD6 100uF 63v
AWR-054-0: C12: 100uF 35v CEA: 647-UPW1V101MPD 100uF 35v
AWR-054-0: C13: 100uF 35v CEA: 647-UPW1V101MPD 100uF 35v
AWR-054-0: C14: 47uF 50v CEA: 647-UPW1H470MED 47uF 50v
AWR-054-0: C18: 1000uF 35v CEA: 647-UPW1H102MHD 1000uF 50v
AWR-054-0: C19: 220uF 16v CEA: 647-UPW1V221MPD6 220uF 35v
AWR-054-0: C20: 2200uF 10v CEA: 647-UPW1C222MHD 2200uF 16v
AWR-054-0: C21: 2200uF 10v CEA: 647-UPW1C222MHD 2200uF 16v

R11: 10 Ohm 1/4 watt: 660-MFS1/2DCT52R10R0 10 Ohm 1/2 watt
R12: 10 Ohm 1/4 watt: 660-MF1/4DCT52A10R0F 10 Ohm 1/2 watt
R20: 3.3 Ohm 1/4 watt: 660-MF1/2DCT52R3R32F 3.32 Ohm 1/2 watt
R21: 10 Ohm 1/4 watt: 660-MFS1/2DCT52R10R0 10 Ohm 1/2 watt

Q1: 2SD313: 863-MJE15032G
Q2: 2SC869: 512-KSC2383YBU
Q3: 2SC869: 512-KSC2383YBU
Q4: 2SB507: 863-MJE15033G
Q5: 2SA628A: 512-KSA1013YBU
Q6: 2SA628A: 512-KSA1013YBU
Q7: 2SD313: 863-MJE15032G
Q8: 2SC1384: 512-KSC2690AYS

BOM List:

647-UPW1A331MPD | 4
647-UKL1H2R2KDDANA | 6
667-ECQ-V1H474JL | 1
647-UPW1C101MED | 4
647-UKL1H4R7KDDANA | 4
647-UPW1E101MED | 7
667-ECQ-V1H334JL | 2
667-ECQ-V1H224JL2 | 2
647-UPW1V101MPD | 2
647-UPW1V221MPD6 | 1
647-UPW1J101MPD6 | 2
647-UPW2A471MHD | 2
647-UPW1C222MHD | 2
647-UPW1H102MHD | 1
647-UPW1H470MED | 2
647-UPW1V4R7MDD | 5
647-UPW1E100MDD | 6
667-ECQ-V1H684JL | 2
647-UKL1H1R5MDD1TA | 2
647-UKL1E101KPDANA | 4
647-UKL1C471KPD | 2
647-UKL1C221KPDANA | 1
647-UKL1C100MDDANA | 2
512-KSA992FBU | 12
512-KSC3503ESTU | 4
512-KSC2690AYS | 2
512-KSA1013YBU | 2
863-MJE15032G | 2
863-MJE15033G | 1
512-KSC2383YBU | 2
 
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There is NO "SOFT START RELAY" on the 1010. That is the OUTPUT Protection circuit Relay. If that is Fried, chances are the AMPS, protection circuit is possibly toasty and the output's are also gone.

RELAY: MOUSER. 653-LY2F-DC24 You'll need some standoffs. Or if you are VERY CAREFUL, you may be able to insert the new relay into the old cover. It'll be brittle.
 
Last edited:
There is NO "SOFT START RELAY" on the 1010. That is the OUTPUT Protection circuit Relay. If that is Fried, chances are the AMPS, protection circuit is possibly toasty and the output's are also gone.

RELAY: MOUSER. 653-LY2F-DC24 You'll need some standoffs. Or if you are VERY CAREFUL, you may be able to insert the new relay into the old cover. It'll be brittle.

Thanks larryderouin!

Okay, my mistake in labeling the relay as a soft start. I have removed the toasted relay from the case without damaging the case using two utility knife blades. I will check to see if I have a relay (left over from another recap and it is brand new). I'll pull the output trans and check them using EW 6way test. The power boards have some trans that look a little on the fried side so it will be a full blown recap/trans job.

Photos to follow tonight..
 
Photos of the "relay" that was toast in the sx-1010. It is missing one of the vertical arms and two of the lower base contacts were totally destroyed.

I haven't checked any other components yet, but it looks pretty grim in some areal.

I still need a review of the recap list before I send an order to Mouser. I don't need stand-offs but will need the mica insulators between the transistors on the power supply board and the ones on the power amp board. I have the ones for the output transistors.


Thanks in advance

JT
 

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Thanks Glenn for the link. That's the one I couldn't find!

craxx; IF Mark gets on he'll probably put up a picture of a really melted one that you can compare your's to. That one looks like it took a hit from a J-79 Afterburner!
 
Thanks Glenn for the link. That's the one I couldn't find!

craxx; IF Mark gets on he'll probably put up a picture of a really melted one that you can compare your's to. That one looks like it took a hit from a J-79 Afterburner!

Larry,

Mark had mentioned in a previous post that he would not be available until the second week in March. Look in the SX-3800 found in the attic post...

"This needs my special attention, which I cannot give until after the first week of march."
 
Good luck finding a volume pot. I think it's ACV 134. It took me a very long time to locate one. Don't forget the loudnesss tap on the pot.
 
I pulled Q1 from the power supply board along with the othe two attached to the L shaped heatsink (i am not in front of the unit so I don't know the trans name for the other two) but Q1 was not soldered in and one of the pads has slightly pulled away from the board. This is a hard area to work on due to the number of wires and where they attach. I may pull one of the pins so I can get the back of the board to face me. I have had pretty good luck desoldering the single pins from these board (did on a SX-9930). That way I can fix the pulled pad correctly.
 
I pulled Q1 from the power supply board along with the othe two attached to the L shaped heatsink (i am not in front of the unit so I don't know the trans name for the other two) but Q1 was not soldered in and one of the pads has slightly pulled away from the board. This is a hard area to work on due to the number of wires and where they attach. I may pull one of the pins so I can get the back of the board to face me. I have had pretty good luck desoldering the single pins from these board (did on a SX-9930). That way I can fix the pulled pad correctly.

there should be enough slack on the power supply wires, I've done more that a few 1010's and never had to remove any pins or wires. Make sure you loosen the wiring at all the plastic holders that house the wiring for that board. You should have no problem. The heatsinks shaped like bat wings usually break off because they used a yellow plastic screw to attach to the transistor. I just burn the rest of the screw out with my soldering iron, then use a metal screw to affix the heatsink to the new transistor...Good Luck!
 
there should be enough slack on the power supply wires, I've done more that a few 1010's and never had to remove any pins or wires. Make sure you loosen the wiring at all the plastic holders that house the wiring for that board. You should have no problem. The heatsinks shaped like bat wings usually break off because they used a yellow plastic screw to attach to the transistor. I just burn the rest of the screw out with my soldering iron, then use a metal screw to affix the heatsink to the new transistor...Good Luck!

Thanks for the info tsd71, great to have lots of assistance on these fine receivers.

Hmm, don't know about the batwing shaped heatsink, mine is the L shaped one on the pwr supply board. This will be my 3rd 1010 that I've worked on and yes it is a PITA to get at the backside of the boards. I have already taken all of the wires off of the plastic holders and it gives quite a bit of room. I also put aluminum tape on the components adjacent to the AWR-054 power supply board to prevent collateral damage. This one is interesting to say the least. You saw the photos of the relay, whoever worked on this one also had the wires wrapped on the pins of the relay without any SOLDER...

I'll post more photos of this beast as time permits and when work continues. I still need to gather my parts list, based on the latest cap list, and then start the recap process.
 
Thanks for the info tsd71, great to have lots of assistance on these fine receivers.

Hmm, don't know about the batwing shaped heatsink, mine is the L shaped one on the pwr supply board. This will be my 3rd 1010 that I've worked on and yes it is a PITA to get at the backside of the boards. I have already taken all of the wires off of the plastic holders and it gives quite a bit of room. I also put aluminum tape on the components adjacent to the AWR-054 power supply board to prevent collateral damage. This one is interesting to say the least. You saw the photos of the relay, whoever worked on this one also had the wires wrapped on the pins of the relay without any SOLDER...

I'll post more photos of this beast as time permits and when work continues. I still need to gather my parts list, based on the latest cap list, and then start the recap process.

Oops my bad, I'm referring to the 727 power supply...same deal though, should have enough slack to work your way under to the trace side.
 
I love the 1010’s to work on. I use a rag folded and laid between the stationary boards and the one I am working on. Also rubber bands to secure the working board down when soldering. I just find two secure spots lower than the board to attach the rubber band. Keeps it from bouncing.
 
I love the 1010’s to work on. I use a rag folded and laid between the stationary boards and the one I am working on. Also rubber bands to secure the working board down when soldering. I just find two secure spots lower than the board to attach the rubber band. Keeps it from bouncing.

Great Avatar zebulon1!!!

I use a piece of cardboard as to keep from damaging other boards when I work on the receivers.

All great ideas!!:thmbsp:
 
I have more photos of the power board. Transistor blown with two of the legs gone and a horizontal crack in it.:yikes:

I'll have to use my PC to upload the photos as my phone won't do it.
 
I have photos of the power board. Transistor blown with two of the legs gone and a horizontal crack in it.:yikes:

I'll have to use my PC to upload the photos as my phone won't do it.

Photos attached of blown transistor. I noticed some of the transistor on other parts of the receiver (melted black goo).

Enjoy
 

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Wow that thing has gone through war. Definite total restoration is in order. Check all those resistors too.
 
Question on the sx1010 . I am working on the equalizer board and c19 + c20 are 100uf/100v . This is a multi voltage unit. What do some of your units have for those caps(original caps).

Thanks
Joe
 
If I remember correctly mine had 25V caps in it. Used 647-UKL1E101KPDANATA

Shouldn't matter whether or not it's a Single or Multi volt unit. The only thing different is the Transformer and before the promary side or it.
 
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