Anyone having light switch failures using either CFL or LED bulbs?

[fredcohiba]

We have been in our house 15 years. The first 12 or so, we used a CFL bulb in our bathroom ceiling fan fixture. Then the switch failed. Replaced it and maybe a month or two later, replaced the light with an LED. Today, I tried to turn on the light, (the light and fan have separate wall switches) and it did not go on. Replaced the bulb with a known working bulb and it still did not turn on, so I assume the wall switch is bad again.
Anyone else experience this, or is it just coincidence that the switch died again?

 

[Erik Tracy]

Can't say that I've ever had a home light switch fail.

Got lots of CFL bulbs and lots that have failed.

I've got a graveyard of CFL bulbs that failed WAY before their supposed long life claims (complete BS, imo), but not a switch.

 

[faber12]

Inexpensive switches will wear out after while, especially a high traffic area like the bathroom.

 

[ETLS]

No bad switches here and I've had LED bulbs for the last 7 years.

 

[sKiZo]

I know a lot of the bullbs aren't rated for dimmers, but I've never heard of the switches failing because of them. I do know that switches fail ... get some good Leviton replacements and cross your fingers I guess.

 

[James Hart]

I've had mechanical failure of a light switch, and I've had CFL melt and flame... and I've had ceiling fan light fixtures fail. None connected.

I hope it is an indoor/outdoor ceiling fan, not sure I would trust a regular indoor unit in a bathroom environment.

 

[Alobar]

Could the problem be somewhere other than the actual switch? If you used the stab in connections on the switch there is the problem about the 75% of the time. Perhaps a lose wire under a wirenut (either switch leg or neutral etc. Just screwing in a different lamp may be quite misleading.

 

[N8Nagel]

Agree with above, also check connections at light, loose connections not only cause stuff not to work but can be a fire hazard if intermittent or arcing. Finally 'spec grade' or 'commercial grade' devices cost a little more than builder grade but are significantly higher quality/more durable.

 

[gadget73]

I still have a couple of original 1950s "kerchunk" switches in this house. I haven't replaced any switches in here because they failed.

+1 on buying the better ones. The cheap of the cheap electrical bits are just garbage.

 

[Ronald1973]

There are still a handful of original switches in this house that are approaching 50 years old. The rest I replaced close to 20 years ago. Not one iota of a switch problem.

 

[N8Nagel]

In my experience quality has been going down so I'm not surprised your original switches are OK. Had some failures on switches and receps from the 80s circa 2006ish so that's about the lifespan of the builder grade stuff I guess. I feel better spending a little more for spec grade and I'd never use a backstab anyway. They are now only allowed for 14AWG anyway but even in that case don't do it.

In the case of your one switch that failed that may be a sign of a problem or it may just be one of those bell curve things.

 

[SolderIron]

......... If you used the stab in connections on the switch there is the problem about the 75% of the time. Perhaps a lose wire under a wirenut (either switch leg or neutral etc. Just screwing in a different lamp may be quite misleading.

The only problem I ever had is with the stab or push in connection. One time I had to map out/ pop open the whole chain to find the one bad connection. Now I will rework the switch/socket to the screw terminal if I open it for any reason.

 

[N8Nagel]

The only problem I ever had is with the stab or push in connection. One time I had to map out/ pop open the whole chain to find the one bad connection. Now I will rework the switch/socket to the screw terminal if I open it for any reason.

After dealing with SWMBO's last place, any time I open a box I replace what's in it with spec grade and the cover plate with a Mulberry standard size metal one. And a "leveling plate" behind the ears usually because cutting drywall around boxes close enough to be proper is apparently a lost art. Too many super loose receps in that place, had a couple switches fail, etc. When she moved out everything matched and was mostly safe and proper.

 

[Alobar]

The only problem I ever had is with the stab or push in connection. One time I had to map out/ pop open the whole chain to find the one bad connection. Now I will rework the switch/socket to the screw terminal if I open it for any reason.

I usually prefer to pigtail rather than use both terminal screws (or worse stab ins) for this reason. ..

 

[nj pheonix]

I usually prefer to pigtail rather than use both terminal screws (or worse stab ins) for this reason. ..

Old electrician
Me too,
I also tape devices before I screw them in.
Back to OP.
Builders tend to use the cheapest devices they possibly can.
I'd guess your problem lies there.
That being said. I live in my current house 10 years. I've completely redeviced (if that's a word? 2 previous houses and a condo.
I think I only changed a switch to a dimmer here. Plan is to retire in next 5 or 6 years and downsize. I know house is full of cheap builders devices, stabbed. If I can help it , I'll sell it that way.

 

[fredcohiba]

Well, thanks for the replies. Off to the home store to get commercial grade switches. I too, use the screw terminals and then wrap the switch with electrical tape.
Stay tuned.

 

[whoaru99]

Have been using some CFL for a while and more recently some LED.

The only switch problem has been one of those old-style bakelite surface mount jobbies. It was just plain wore out from years of use.

 

[Chip Chester]

I've been using the top grade available at standard home improvement stores for many years now, and never have had a lightswitch fail. Three houses, 30 years. Never even had one of the houses' original switches fail, either, and two of them were pushing 100 years old, and all had knob-and-tube remnants in undisturbed walls. You should check for aluminum wires, and upstream connections that may be flakey. The extremely small current draw on LEDs may be prone to not 'punching thru' a poor connection. <--- not well stated, but similar to trying to feed a phono-level signal thru a cheap relay.

Chip

 

[fredcohiba]

Took an early lunch and replaced the switch. Call me old - go ahead. I had thought I replaced the exhaust fan light switch only to determine that I had actually replaced the fan switch instead. So much for a good memory.
So in went the new contractor grade Leviton and after throwing the breaker on again, viola - on and off went the light.
So, the fan switch lasted 18 years and light switch for the fan lasted 20 years and 2 months.