Ariston rd60 spring adjustment

leonis69

New Member
Hi all

I just had an ariston rd 60 table with the jelco enigma arm.
The table is I'm good condition as is the belt although it have never changed in 3 years!!!
My problem is to adjust the three springs as they seem to have stucked with the years.
I'm asking for your help because I can't find any information except the manual that I have downloaded.
Any help appreciated.
Thank you.
 
Those springs may be sagging from there age, they can be replaced with the same springs the Linn lp12 uses. I own the Ariston RD 40 and replaced mine with the Linn lp12 springs and it was a great improvement. Usually to raise and lower the height you can turn the little knob at the end of the spring, counter clockwise usually raises it and clockwise lowers it, hope this helps.

Audiofreak71
 
Thank you for your reply.

It seems that the screws have stucked and did not turn so to raise or lower the springs.
I try to oil them, but it didnt work. So i guess the linn spring screws will fit better?
 
Thank you for your reply.

It seems that the screws have stucked and did not turn so to raise or lower the springs.
I try to oil them, but it didnt work. So i guess the linn spring screws will fit better?
The Linn springs are just the springs the screws aren't replaced as your existing ones are used, the Linn springs just offer a bit better suspension especially for old worn out springs.

Audiofreak71
 
Something like that?
s-l1600.jpg



or that?

705611-linn_sondek_suspension_kit.jpg



... you think it fits? And i will use the excisting screws of the ariston ?
 
Actually....the Linn springs and perches are not ideal for the Ariston RD60. They would be better suited for an RD11 or RD80. The stock Ariston spring is squatter and wider at the bottom and is softer than the Linn spring. The wider bottom of the Ariston spring fits into the recess in the plinth. At the bottom of the recess is a plastic disk. The disk is held with a bit of adhesive and two small screws.The Linn spring is too tall and narrow for the perch plus would create more tension that would most likely cause the disk to separate from the bottom of the plinth. The suspension screw fits into a brass insert. Spray some PB B'laster or something similar and let it do it's thing. The screws should back out eventually, then clean and lightly lube the screws and inserts. Check that the plastic disks are making full contact with the underside of the deck. I would add a couple more small screws to secure the disks to be be safe. The Ariston spring in the attached pic is on the Right
-Matt
 

Attachments

  • IMG_9940.JPG
    IMG_9940.JPG
    55 KB · Views: 31
Last edited:
IIRC Ariston used a bit of lock-tight on those threads to keep them from backing off. A bit of force should break them free, and you'll be able to adjust them after that... once you get the springs balanced, a dab of nail polish will hold the threads tight.
 
Actually....the Linn springs and perches are not ideal for the Ariston RD50/RD60. They would be better suited for an RD11 or RD80. The stock Ariston spring is squatter and wider at the bottom and is softer than the Linn spring. The wider bottom of the Ariston spring fits into the recess in the plinth. At the bottom of the recess is a plastic disk. The disk is held with a bit of adhesive and two small screws.The Linn spring is too tall and narrow for the perch plus would create more tension that would most likely cause the disk to separate from the bottom of the plinth. The suspension screw fits into a brass insert. Spray some PB B'laster or something similar and let it do it's thing. The screws should back out eventually, then clean and lightly lube the screws and inserts. Check that the plastic disks are making full contact with the underside of the deck. I would add a couple more small screws to secure the disks to be be safe. The Ariston spring in the attached pic is on the Right
-Matt
That's good to know Matt and I apologize for the miss diagnosis as I have the RD40 and use the Linn lp12 springs successfully, the RD60 springs looked the same to me, so I learned something new I appreciate that :thumbsup:
 
Actually....the Linn springs and perches are not ideal for the Ariston RD50/RD60. They would be better suited for an RD11 or RD80. The stock Ariston spring is squatter and wider at the bottom and is softer than the Linn spring. The wider bottom of the Ariston spring fits into the recess in the plinth. At the bottom of the recess is a plastic disk. The disk is held with a bit of adhesive and two small screws.The Linn spring is too tall and narrow for the perch plus would create more tension that would most likely cause the disk to separate from the bottom of the plinth. The suspension screw fits into a brass insert. Spray some PB B'laster or something similar and let it do it's thing. The screws should back out eventually, then clean and lightly lube the screws and inserts. Check that the plastic disks are making full contact with the underside of the deck. I would add a couple more small screws to secure the disks to be be safe. The Ariston spring in the attached pic is on the Right
-Matt
good advice. while on the subject, a change in spring rate will also change the resonate frequency of the suspension.
 
good advice. while on the subject, a change in spring rate will also change the resonate frequency of the suspension.
Marc, I'm guessing that replacement RD-60 springs are most likely unobtainium ( I've been looking for a while now) so how would one firm up the originals?
-Matt
 
Marc, I'm guessing that replacement RD-60 springs are most likely unobtainium ( I've been looking for a while now) so how would one firm up the originals?
-Matt
the springs can probably be found by searching for conical springs. measure the dimensions of yours, find how much weight it takes to compress your existing spring to 80% of its free height. find the mass of your suspended parts, all of them. divide by 3 to get the load each spring should see @ 80% height. A conical springs' rate is determined at 80%
 
Cool beans, Thx marc

Edit: Looks like they would have to be custom made. Bummer
 
Last edited:
Is is it just spinning in place or is it not moving at all? First off, remove the tonearm. Easiest way would be to desolder the arm wires from the little pcb on the underside.
 
The undernith plinth is moving freely by the two springs as it should be. But the left spring is firmly attached to the plinth
as well as to raise or lower it. I do not know if you understand me.
 
Back
Top Bottom