AU-717 Binding Posts

14 gauge wire is heavier than the power cable on your amp. It's total overkill for speaker wire unless you are running 100' lengths.

- Pete
 
I think we are getting off the rails. I hear the difference in this cable vs the Canare and especially vs the 16awg monster cable I used to use.

Thanks for the suggestion for the flex pin connectors.
I bought the Sewell flex pin connectors. They are terrible and fall apart like it's nothing. If I wanted to change amps, or compare another speaker cable, the flex pin connector would inevitably fall apart. Pretty terrible construction. Particularly noticeable if one falls apart. The other option I was able to find was the monster ones, but they seem to be rare and overpriced when I was able to find them.

The difficulty I had with flex pin connectors has driven me to make a commitment to replace the speaker terminals.

So.........
I really just want to know what parts will work, and what size plate. Whether or not I need to drill new holes. And the most unknown part of it is the internal work. Just want someone to clearly explain the method for connecting the internals to the new binding posts. Thanks


P.s. I can not emphasize enough how careful I've been with this gauge wire. Going on 10 years of using it with this amp in two different systems...
 
I think we are getting off the rails
But all the info is right here, even the binding posts, then you need a piece of plexi glass or mesonite, a ruler to measure the size of the plate, yes you will need to drill holes as the EW picture shows, and the wires are right there (if you open the unit), you can solder it or use ring terminals to attach them to the binding posts.
If you can't figure it out, measure, solder or put terminal rings I would strongly suggest to take it to a technician before you mess up.
If you still decide to DIY, open a new thread and I help you step by step. We already mess up enough this thread.
 
I know I'm taking a risk by asking another question. I was under the impression that creating new threads was a drag. Here's the question. The parts express binding posts look just ok. Any other options? Are there dimensions I should keep in mind? Particularly the length that goes inside the chassis.
 
I was under the impression that creating new threads was a drag

Actually the opposite is true, new problem = new thread. (unless it is the same serial number, but with continuing issues).

Resurrecting old threads can cause confusion about what fault, on what gear, is being discussed, and muddies the waters if you are trying to search for the solution to a specific issue.
 
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