I'm kinda of a weekend warrior so it might take awhile as I do have a full time job.We,re watchin...
The rusty one on the right says 238120214 and the other one is 219060364Double vision.
If you are lucky both will have no blown output transistors on the drivers.
Do you know the dates of manufacture? The later the date, the more factory mods it will have to quell the oscillation problems that the earlier versions made the model famous for.
Judging by the looks of the head amp cards on the more rough version on the left, I assume that one to be a very early X1.
The following came from a thread by johnnyboy70
http://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/how-to-date-your-sansui-amp.472424/
Two first digits = Assembly line
3rd digit = year (you have to know decade)
4th and 5th digits = month
last 4 digits = serial No.
An example
519120222 =
Assembly line 51
9 = 1969 December
12 = December
0222 = Serial Number
So I guess one was Dec 1980 and the other June 1979 huhThe rusty one on the right says 238120214 and the other one is 219060364
I started taking the one from 79 apart and pulled the right heat sink out a and tested those outputs and they all test good but one of them has a low current gain.Double vision.
If you are lucky both will have no blown output transistors on the drivers.
Do you know the dates of manufacture? The later the date, the more factory mods it will have to quell the oscillation problems that the earlier versions made the model famous for.
Judging by the looks of the head amp cards on the more rough version on the left, I assume that one to be a very early X1.
The following came from a thread by johnnyboy70
http://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/how-to-date-your-sansui-amp.472424/
Two first digits = Assembly line
3rd digit = year (you have to know decade)
4th and 5th digits = month
last 4 digits = serial No.
An example
519120222 =
Assembly line 51
9 = 1969 December
12 = December
0222 = Serial Number
I read that on Hyperions thread and checked those first thing and they both measured 391k ohms should I replace them anyway?238120214=1978
219060364=1979
Mine is 2200500022=1980
You seem to have already started on the drivers a bit. Resistors 36 and 37 will almost certainly fall apart if you touch them.
For some reason R36 and R37 get hammered on the 2775 driver boards.
Two others were burned the check this pic out.I read that on Hyperions thread and checked those first thing and they both measured 391k ohms should I replace them anyway?
the most tedious part for me is getting the parts list together time to do some serious thinking.Two others were burned the check this pic out.
I pulled tr 11 and it checked good everything is there no missing parts.The Rapture? ...or someone has used that machine for spares.
I pulled tr 11 and it checked good everything is there no missing parts.
My wife has me doing other things so haven't gotten around to do more checking but I did take this pic of the trace side.I pulled tr 11 thinking that was the culprit on the smoked resistors but it checked good so must be one of the other ones.we're getting ready to go to Alaska for a week so it'll have to wait till we get back.Missing transistor?
The Rapture? ...or someone has used that machine for spares?
Other than that....boy there is some damage done there. Besides the missing transistor there are two toasted resistors I can see.
Did something fall onto the other side of board to short out that part of it I wonder?
Those solder points are very exposed.
What does the trace side of the board look like?
Find any coins inside?
I read that on Hyperions thread and checked those first thing and they both measured 391k ohms should I replace them anyway?
OkThe one pictured shows 0.390K ohm = 390 ohm - which is correct, but yes, replace them anyway.