If they all read the same - then that's not the problem - no need to change them.
AU-X1
- Thread starter Willy6
- Start date
If they all read the same - then that's not the problem - no need to change them.
Ronito6
Super Member
You ordered new dual caps?
Could you please tell us brand and from where?
I didn't think a good replacement in terms of size was available.
Also...as long as you are waiting for the new caps, how about trying the duals from your other X1?
They may serve as stand-ins so your work can proceed while you wait for the delivery.
Tried that already All 4 are dead I ordered 4 of these to stuff the old cans.sorry I'm on my phone and can't send a link the part # is 493-8733-ND from digikey..
2 of those will fit right inside the original cans.Ah...I see...restuffing.
Thanks!
Ronito6
Super Member
Here Is the illustration from Kale that shows the basic fabrication of a dual capacitor.
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Went Fishing today caught 4 nice Chinook salmon and when I came home I found the culprits.Here the illustration from Kale that shows the basic fabrication of a dual capacitor.
Ronito6
Super Member
Congratulations on both.
Seems your OP transistors are ok. Not to mention the dual capacitors.
Mr. Amp 8 never changed the duals in either of his many X1 or X11 restorations.
So I was really surprised when yours seemed to conk-out.
So....What was the culprit? What prevented the voltage adjustments?
(Looks like you posted a pic of the offending issue but the pic is not rendering.)
(The fish and the multi-meter are showing up fine though.)
FIVE MINUTES LATER...
There they are.
How did you discover the source of the problem? What is replacing the SV diode?
It seems you are nearing the end of this project.
Seems your OP transistors are ok. Not to mention the dual capacitors.
Mr. Amp 8 never changed the duals in either of his many X1 or X11 restorations.
So I was really surprised when yours seemed to conk-out.
So....What was the culprit? What prevented the voltage adjustments? (Looks like you posted a pic of the offending issue but the pic is not rendering.)
(The fish and the multi-meter are showing up fine though.)
FIVE MINUTES LATER...
There they are.
How did you discover the source of the problem? What is replacing the SV diode?
It seems you are nearing the end of this project.
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And yes the duals charged up..R40 and R41 were way out of specs and D03 read faulty unknown component on the peak tester so I put new resistors in and pulled a good one of those SV03's out of the parts unit and now both right and left F-2775 boards are dialed in
Ronito6
Super Member
R40 and R41 were way out of specs and D03 read faulty unknown component on the peak tester so I put new resistors in and pulled a good one of those SV03's out of the parts unit and now both right and left F-2775 boards are dialed in
Freakn awesome.
I saw in one of your previous pics that you have an O scope.
You'll be doing some testing soon I assume.
I'm Fishing hard right now gotta get em while they're in but yes I'll be tinkering here and there and let ya how it's going..Freakn awesome.
I saw in one of your previous pics that you have an O scope.
You'll be doing some testing soon I assume.
I'm still working on F-2717,18 and F-2770,71 changing out the old transistors and measuring resistors and such but that's all I have left to do hopefully and then I'll need some pointers on where to probe with the oscope..Freakn awesome.
I saw in one of your previous pics that you have an O scope.
You'll be doing some testing soon I assume.
Ronito6
Super Member
This is where my experience and ability to offer advice ends, but my education begins.
(Well... continues.)
Using an O scope is a skill set I have yet to have, but I'm hoping to learn a bit here.
So as far as how to use an oscilloscope for testing or troubleshooting... its time for more knowledgeable AKers to chime in.
I mostly use it with a curve tracer but I bought a signal generator awhile back and plugged it into the aux on one of my amps and grounded the oscope probe and probed the speaker jacks and got a pretty good sine wave out of it but I'm not exactly sure if I was probing the right spot.
To really get into the 'weeds' you also need a distortion analyser and a strong set of dummy loads however you can check relative results with the gear you already have.
If your sig gen has variable output use your dmm and scope to set a 1khz sine wave at 500mv and solid pattern on the scope
Connect a 8ohm dummy load across each set of speaker terminals
Connect the sig gen output to an aux input on the amp
Probe the output, starting with volume at zero and run the volume up till you get @1vac showing on the scope peak to peak.
Look at the trace to see if they are nice smooth curves with no irregularities (post a pic if necessary)
Use the sig generator frequency control and run it up to 10khz, re-adjust scope and check curve again
If you start to see dips or bends along the curve stop there and post a pic
Finally if your signal generator will reach 20khz dial the main volume down to 500mv and check at 20khz. We want to be careful that if the amp starts to oscillate we catch it before things get out of hand.
There is more that you can verify but this is enough to keep you occupied for a while.
If your sig gen has variable output use your dmm and scope to set a 1khz sine wave at 500mv and solid pattern on the scope
Connect a 8ohm dummy load across each set of speaker terminals
Connect the sig gen output to an aux input on the amp
Probe the output, starting with volume at zero and run the volume up till you get @1vac showing on the scope peak to peak.
Look at the trace to see if they are nice smooth curves with no irregularities (post a pic if necessary)
Use the sig generator frequency control and run it up to 10khz, re-adjust scope and check curve again
If you start to see dips or bends along the curve stop there and post a pic
Finally if your signal generator will reach 20khz dial the main volume down to 500mv and check at 20khz. We want to be careful that if the amp starts to oscillate we catch it before things get out of hand.
There is more that you can verify but this is enough to keep you occupied for a while.
Ronito6
Super Member
What wattage for the dummy load?
The X1 is a 400 watt amp at 200 watts per channel. So better than 200 watts (with one dummy for each channel?) is the safe bet I imagine.
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For full power runs (keep them short as things get hot) 200w dummy loads at the minimum. You can tell much about the health of the amp with dummy loads as small as 8 ohm 20 watt. Just don't overheat things with non prudent twists of the volume knob
Most transistor outputs tend to show deviant behavior at around the 1vac output level as they switch into class b mode (although the X1 may be slightly different in its design)
Most transistor outputs tend to show deviant behavior at around the 1vac output level as they switch into class b mode (although the X1 may be slightly different in its design)
Well Fishing season has been over for a few weeks and I'm on vacation now so l decided to get this thing going.All boards with trim pots were tuned in to specs and I've been playing it for a few hours now and i just rechecked all of the voltages and they are all right on.I'm still running the sacrificial outputs mj21193,94g's and prabably won't put the sanken's in till I figure out how to put it on the scope.
