Auditech
- Thread starter B3Nut
- Start date
gonzothegreat
Super Member
AR Model 26 trade
After Dennis hinted he was interested in my beloved Pioneer SX-1080 and Teac 2000, we worked out a trade for the pair of AR Model 26 that he posted pics of a while back.
Haven't had time to hook them up to my good gear but I like what I hear so far. I'm sure the bass will perk up once I drive it with something besides my monster Yamaha AV receiver.
After Dennis hinted he was interested in my beloved Pioneer SX-1080 and Teac 2000, we worked out a trade for the pair of AR Model 26 that he posted pics of a while back.
Haven't had time to hook them up to my good gear but I like what I hear so far. I'm sure the bass will perk up once I drive it with something besides my monster Yamaha AV receiver.
gonzothegreat
Super Member
Yup they are biampable. Not planning on trying that out anytime soon since I don't have a suitable crossover.
I have them hooked up in the downstairs system right now and they bleed my Yamaha AV receiver dry. I guess it can't handle 4 ohm loads well. Once I get my Kenwood 700m running they should be quite happy.
I have them hooked up in the downstairs system right now and they bleed my Yamaha AV receiver dry. I guess it can't handle 4 ohm loads well. Once I get my Kenwood 700m running they should be quite happy.
Toasted Almond
RIP 1952-2016
If the AR-26's are bi-ampable, why would you need a crossover? If you have two sets of binding posts on the back, all you need is two power amps Gonzo.
TA
TA
Toasted Almond
RIP 1952-2016
"And it makes me wonder,
a wah-wah-wah-wah-wonder,
Why!"
An old Del Shannon song.
TA
a wah-wah-wah-wah-wonder,
Why!"
An old Del Shannon song.
TA
gonzothegreat
Super Member
I thought the "proper" way to biamp was to split the signal with an xover after the preamp then amplify the highs & lows seperately. Wouldn't the tweeters & mids get unhappy with some 20Hz showing up for dinner?
If not, then I need to pull one of my preamps with dual outputs out and experimenting.
Toasted Almond
RIP 1952-2016
Gonzo my good man,
Speakers that are bi-ampable already have the crossover inside the speaker. If you have two sets of binding post, in order to run the entire system off a single amp, those two sets of binding posts should have some kind of metal "strap" or jumper connecting them. If you undo the strap, you are ready to bi-amp. Just use that dual "mains output" preamp that you have, connect it to two power amps, and away you go.
Now, do you want to vertical or horizontal bi-amp?
Vertical bi-amp requires two of the exact same power amps. Connect the two LEFT outputs of your dual mains-out, to the left and right inputs on one power amp. Then hook one channel of that power amp to the left woofer input, and the other channel to the left speaker tweeter input. Do the same thing to the right side and you are vertically bi-amping.
Horizontal bi-amp I think you can figure out, and the two power amps don't have to be identical. Just in case you can't figure it, one power amp drives the woofs in both speaks, and the other power amp drives the mids and tweets in both speaks, generally putting the more powerful amp on the woofs, but not always.
I was certain a heavy-hitter collector like the guy that sold you those AR's would've been able to explain that.......... but I guess not.
I'm here for you.
TA
Speakers that are bi-ampable already have the crossover inside the speaker. If you have two sets of binding post, in order to run the entire system off a single amp, those two sets of binding posts should have some kind of metal "strap" or jumper connecting them. If you undo the strap, you are ready to bi-amp. Just use that dual "mains output" preamp that you have, connect it to two power amps, and away you go.
Now, do you want to vertical or horizontal bi-amp?
Vertical bi-amp requires two of the exact same power amps. Connect the two LEFT outputs of your dual mains-out, to the left and right inputs on one power amp. Then hook one channel of that power amp to the left woofer input, and the other channel to the left speaker tweeter input. Do the same thing to the right side and you are vertically bi-amping.
Horizontal bi-amp I think you can figure out, and the two power amps don't have to be identical. Just in case you can't figure it, one power amp drives the woofs in both speaks, and the other power amp drives the mids and tweets in both speaks, generally putting the more powerful amp on the woofs, but not always.
I was certain a heavy-hitter collector like the guy that sold you those AR's would've been able to explain that.......... but I guess not.
I'm here for you.
TA
Last edited:
TA, does the bi-amping you describe accomplish anything more than upping the wattage to each side of the speaker? If you have discrete XO paths for the drivers, then each passive XO will screen out those portions of the signal which should not go to the respective drivers, yes? If you have an electronic XO between the pre and powers, with an XO frequency appropriate to the speaker XO point, then the amp that powers the woofers will present only signal that the woofer can use. Similarly, the electronic XO would pass only HF signal to the amp for the tweets or mids/tweets. If the system is 3-way or more, the passive XO in the speaker, for he mid/HF, would divvy up the signal for the respective drivers, mids, tweets, supers, as the case may be. As I understand it, the sonic gains come from each amp being focused on the part of the signal that its driver(s) will use, making more efficient use of the power signal from each amp.
Do I have this correct, or am I all wet, here?
Do I have this correct, or am I all wet, here?
gonzothegreat
Super Member
Folks, I'm going to start a new thread about biamping so we don't have to hijack this thread.
