BA-5000 with Issues

Found them. Yes they were under the relay block. Hidden under a two screw black plate.
One reads about 4.2K ohms,the other about 660K ohms.
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OK add them to your shopping list... Next I'd be pulling and checking each output transistor with your DCA.
 
Appreciate the advice and info. Yes next step will be to check the outputs. Hopefully I can find a 10 watt ceramic that will fit without a lot of modification.
Be a shame if I fried an output or two. It was all working fine until it went on my bench.
Thx again. I would have never found them without your help.
 
Good stuff guys......This was going to be my next question before I had to give myself a hernia lifting a McIntosh MC2205 onto the bench....

SS resistors always blow for a reason, there is always something else associated with their failure, and it usually is blown output transistors, or possibly drivers too...

You're getting close now...

This G9000 I have here had a blown SS (ballast) resistor...and blown output transistors...
 
So I am looking for 2 -10 watt cement 3.9K Ohm resistors. That will hopefully fit. Not seeing anything at Mouser, my main supplier.
 
So I am looking for 2 -10 watt cement 3.9K Ohm resistors. That will hopefully fit. Not seeing anything at Mouser, my main supplier.
No they wont be 3.9KΩ, they'll be 3.9Ω, the K is the tolerance designation.
 
Thx for pointing out the K designation.
Wish I knew what I did to cause this mess. I only pulled one driver board and then put it in as per my picture.
The unit was apparently working fine before.
Oh well.
Appreciate all the help and advice.
 
Don't think so. But anything is possible. Its not a pin connection. Its one molex and a few other single wire connectors.
 
If I have a few outputs shorted I may have outputs from another Ba 5000 in my parts pile. Would that be the way to go or just bite the bullet and get On Semi's. 93/94's or?
 
Would that be the way to go or just bite the bullet and get On Semi's. 93/94's or?
I would get the on semis to work on the unit, and after that would try to match to some degree the Sankens, for the final install (those things are very pricey)
 
Before you make any decisions about fitting replacements, check all the OP transistors to see how many (if any?) you have that are damaged. When you remove the OP transistors (and if it were me), I would record the position where each transistor comes from.

But as others have said, with blown soft start resistors, it isn't looking promising for the OP transistors.
 
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Well perhaps I'm just special. As in needs. Tested all OP transistors with my DCA and surprisingly they all test fine.
I will order those resistors asap. Just need to put my mind and wallet to putting in an order that gets me over the free shipping target. I've dropped about $500.00CAN this month alone at Mouser so my stock is good. But I like to be prepared and then some.
Suggestions as to next steps while waiting for those 10 watts? I note that it appears every board has had some work done on it and not very good. I would like to tackle the driver boards and power supply boards.
 
Well perhaps I'm just special. As in needs. Tested all OP transistors with my DCA and surprisingly they all test fine.
I will order those resistors asap. Just need to put my mind and wallet to putting in an order that gets me over the free shipping target. I've dropped about $500.00CAN this month alone at Mouser so my stock is good. But I like to be prepared and then some.
Suggestions as to next steps while waiting for those 10 watts? I note that it appears every board has had some work done on it and not very good. I would like to tackle the driver boards and power supply boards.
I would at least recap the PS boards and check semi conductors on them. The power resistors likes to run hot too, so you can replace them an give them a bit more of clearance.
The drivers board had on both units that I'm working the infamous glue. You can check if you have some of that crap there.
On F-2520, check the power resistor and the caps close to them.
 
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