Bell Clarillon 75 watt Ultra Linear Tube PA Amp

Right now the two screen grid resistors are togather on the GR (Grid res.) grn/yel , so I should move one to the red/yel and pin 4, or from grn/yel to red/yel in other words sence it is already on pin 4 on one end. When I check the 8 ohm spkr. Tap on the fisher OT it measures 8 ohms and the 16 ohm measures 12 ohms. Why would it be so low at 2,3,4 on this one ?
 
Right now the two screen grid resistors are togather on the GR (Grid res.) grn/yel , so I should move one to the red/yel and pin 4, or from grn/yel to red/yel in other words sence it is already on pin 4 on one end.
Sorry, I don't understand.
When I check the 8 ohm spkr. Tap on the fisher OT it measures 8 ohms and the 16 ohm measures 12 ohms. Why would it be so low at 2,3,4 on this one ?
Different transformers have different numbers of primary and secondary windings, which results in different static resistances. More critical is the ratio of primary turns to secondary turns.
 
I did what you suggested and wired it to conventional Ultra linear and It worked but was kind of distorted so I moved the speaker out from 8 ohm to 16 ohms and it sounds pretty good there with a 8 ohm 30 watt 12 inch speaker. Im still not convinced the OT is good 100 % but it is acceptable now atleast. The idle humm is slightly better now. I dont know or understand what the Tertiary NFB windings are about, never heard that term before. I know you cant directly ground them or put a cap on them or it kills the volume and or heats up the cap. They were once both grounded and I dont think that was right either. I like what I hear now after about a half hour. It is on a peavy 12 inch blue diamond replacement pa monitor 30 watt speaker right now but the real speaker is a Marshall 1960 A lead cabinet with four 75 watt Celeston speakers at 8 ohms. I was thinking that a minimum of NFB should be used with those speakers, to balance out the three nfbs just enough to reduce humm and distortion but give as much output as possible. Im no expert on nfb or ultra linear thats for sure. This amp once sounded really good on that Marshall speaker, three or four shops attempted to fix it after it messed up and they couldent fix it , eventually I fixed it myself with replacing the can capacitors that I told everyone of them I thought was the problem. Im not sure why they were all being do reluctant to change them. If something is hooked up wrong one of those shops probley did it trying to fix it. Ive had the amp a long time now but it only worked good for me for about 2 weeks. Back then I did not work on them myself and you know how that is , you just have to hope they know how to fix it. I sure would like to have it working good again , it had a sensitivity on the strings that few amps have.
 
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I did what you suggested and wired it to conventional Ultra linear and It worked but was kind of distorted so I moved the speaker out from 8 ohm to 16 ohms and it sounds pretty good there with a 8 ohm 30 watt 12 inch speaker. Im still not convinced the OT is good 100 % but it is acceptable now atleast. The idle humm is slightly better now. I dont know or understand what the Tertiary NFB windings are about, never heard that term before. I know you cant directly ground them or put a cap on them or it kills the volume and or heats up the cap. They were once both grounded and I dont think that was right either. I like what I hear now after about a half hour.
Use of tertiary feedback windings decouples the output from the feedback circuit. The Marantz 5 is an example of its use. See http://www.ampslab.com/vintage_marantz5.htm

There's a discussion about it here: https://groupdiy.com/index.php?topic=58111.0

A simple arrangement might be to ground one of the tertiary winding leads and connect the other to the 80 ohm negative feedback resistor on the phase splitter 12AX7. If that kills the output, try swapping the tertiary winding leads. If it oscillates, swap them back. You may need to add additional resistance.

However, it's likely the amplifier has been significantly modified from its original design, and there may have been significant (and possibly wrong) rewiring and components entirely missing from the original negative feedback circuit.

Don't short the tertiary windings to each other or both to ground, either directly or through a capacitor. That will only heat up the transformer and risk burning out the tertiary winding.
 
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Use of tertiary feedback windings decouples the output from the feedback circuit. The Marantz 5 is an example of its use. See http://www.ampslab.com/vintage_marantz5.htm

There's a discussion about it here: https://groupdiy.com/index.php?topic=58111.0

A simple arrangement might be to ground one of the tertiary winding leads and connect the other to the 80 ohm negative feedback resistor on the phase splitter 12AX7. If that kills the output, try swapping the tertiary winding leads. If it oscillates, swap them back. You may need to add additional resistance.

However, it's likely the amplifier has been significantly modified from its original design, and there may have been significant (and possibly wrong) rewiring and components entirely missing from the original negative feedback circuit.

Don't short the tertiary windings to each other or both to ground, either directly or through a capacitor. That will only heat up the transformer and risk burning out the tertiary winding.
Thanks, I will check out those links and do some research on it.
 
1453266660.gif After reviwing the Marantz 5 and reading the posts I still dont have a very good understanding and I dont really think that they do either ? , A cap to the nfb resistor or direct to the splitter cathode, lower nfb resistance and ground or other lead to nfb resistor ? . DC bypass ? Its all pretty confusing to me being new to it and no one really seems to be an expert on it. I understand how the old fc speakers bypassed current and voltage to make emf and how that properly regulated could create some really beautiful tone , it seems to me that may be the basic idea here with the two winding but I dont know enough about it to decide if it should go to nfb res. and or spkitter cathode, or to ground on one side, or to go to one of the el34s instead. The only thing I know for sure is that the 80 ohm nfb resistor in it is most likely way too big. 3 winding transformer ; 1. It reduces the unbalancing in the primary due to unbalancing in 3 phase load. 2. It redistributes the flow of fault current. 13 ohms is what the tertiary winding reads in my OT unhooked from end to end. I dont fully understand its operation other than comparing it to something like a field coil electro magnet , if that is even similar ? but See the attachment. There has to be a better approach than trial and error to hook it back up. The windings read 13 ohms across but are not the same, the white one is 15 ohms to chassis or comm. And the red or orange is 2 ohms to chassis or comm. They also make y and delta windings as well and I cant find any info on audio tetiary windings, almost like it is some kind of a secret or something ? But I do have OT numbers ; 606710 and 32B195 that may help ?
 
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That's a different kind of tertiary winding. The approach (maybe) used in your amp is simply a separate secondary winding from the speaker windings. It helps isolate the feedback circuit from the PA speaker outputs, at the cost of a more expensive output transformer.
After reviwing the Marantz 5 and reading the posts I still dont have a very good understanding and I dont really think that they do either ? , A cap to the nfb resistor or direct to the splitter cathode, lower nfb resistance and ground or other lead to nfb resistor ? . DC bypass ? Its all pretty confusing to me being new to it and no one really seems to be an expert on it. I understand how the old fc speakers bypassed current and voltage to make emf and how that properly regulated could create some really beautiful tone , it seems to me that may be the basic idea here with the two winding but I dont know enough about it to decide if it should go to nfb res. and or spkitter cathode, or to ground on one side, or to go to one of the el34s instead. The only thing I know for sure is that the 80 ohm nfb resistor in it is most likely way too big. 3 winding transformer ; 1. It reduces the unbalancing in the primary due to unbalancing in 3 phase load. 2. It redistributes the flow of fault current. 13 ohms is what the tertiary winding reads in my OT unhooked from end to end. I dont fully understand its operation other than comparing it to something like a field coil electro magnet , if that is even similar ? but See the attachment. There has to be a better approach than trial and error to hook it back up. The windings read 13 ohms across but are not the same, the white one is 15 ohms to chassis or comm. And the red or orange is 2 ohms to chassis or comm. They also make y and delta windings as well and I cant find any info on audio tetiary windings, almost like it is some kind of a secret or something ?
Tertiary windings for negative feedback were a relatively uncommon -- and now arguably obsolete -- technique probably used more on PA amps than anything, and they've largely fallen out of favour because it made for expensive output transformers without much justification unless you're constructing a tube PA amp. These days, nobody is going to construct a tube PA amp.

Use of a tertiary winding is exactly the same as tapping the negative feedback from one of the speaker taps, which is more common.

Here's an example of a tertiary feedback winding used in a vintage ham transmitter: https://faculty.frostburg.edu/phys/latta/ee/ranger/schematic/rangerschematicfullres.jpg

Ham transmitters for voice work are modulated by the audio (voice) signal via an audio amplifier. In the diagram, T2 is the audio output transformer. Note the tertiary negative feedback winding is grounded on one side and on the other side injected into the grid of the final preamp dual triode.

Injecting negative feedback into the final preamp, instead of earlier in the preamp chain, is reasonable -- a PA amp isn't striving for the utmost in frequency response or distortion-free operation. Also, a PA amp is likely to be divided into separate channels prior to the final preamp stage anyway, so there's no common audio path into which to inject negative feedback until the final preamp.

In your case, to wire up negative feedback from the tertiary winding, a simple arrangement might be to ground one of the tertiary winding leads and connect the other to the 80 ohm negative feedback resistor on the phase splitter 12AX7. If that kills the output, try swapping the tertiary winding leads. If it oscillates, swap them back. You may need to add additional resistance.

However, I've reviewed your output transformer resistance readings. Because they're scanned I find them hard to read. It's difficult to tell whether the unattached output transformer leads are a true tertiary winding, or simply part of the same secondary as the speaker outputs. If they are taps on the same secondary as the speaker outputs, you don't want to ground one of the two disconnected leads -- leave it floating -- and the other will be used to obtain negative feedback.

A complete table of lead-to-lead output transformer resistances -- typed in a post here rather than handwritten and scanned -- would be helpful.
 
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  1. Spkr leads ; comm blk, 2 ohms on 4 ohm wht, 3 ohms on 8 ohm red and 4 ohms on 16 ohm green. 2,3,4 to chassis/comm . Tetuiary wht to red/org 13 Ohms, wht to comm/chassis 15 ohms, red/org to chassis/comm 2 ohms. 2. Wht 4 ohm spkr to red tetiary 1.9 ohm. Red 8 ohm spkr to red tetiary 1.8 ohm, grn 16 ohm spkr to red tetiary 1.7 ohm. Wht spkr 4 ohm to wht tetiary 15 ohm, 8 ohm red/org spkr to wht tetiary 14.8, 16 ohm spkr to wht tetiary 14.6 ohm, keep in mind that the 4,8 and 16 ohm spker taps are actually 2,3 and 4 ohms. I cant tell if the windings are connected or not but they both affect the output. That is why I thought the OT numbers may help to identify the OT. With readings that close it is hard to tell if it is true tetiary or not. I cant tell if it is just wire resistance making the slight differances. OT numbers 606710 and32B195.
 
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  1. Spkr leads ; comm blk, 2 ohms on 4 ohm wht, 3 ohms on 8 ohm red and 4 ohms on 16 ohm green. 2,3,4 to chassis/comm . Tetuiary wht to red/org 13 Ohms, wht to comm/chassis 15 ohms, red/org to chassis/comm 2 ohms.
Sorry, I'm not following that. I'd expect to see something like this:

Blue to Green - 2 ohms
Blue to Red - 3 ohms
Blue to Green/Brown - 3 ohms
Blue to Orange - NC (no connection)
Blue to Purple - NC
Blue to chassis - NC
Green to Blue - 2 ohms
Green to Red - ...etc...
Green to Green/Brown - ...etc...
...etc...

In other words, there should be a resistance reading between every possible pair of transformer taps, and between every transformer tap and the chassis to identify both core connections (rare) and shorts.

NOTE: Measurements ideally should be done with all transformer taps disconnected, included those currently connected to ground. However, it's safe to leave connected only those taps connected to a tube pin and nothing else, and those connected to an external connector that's connected to nothing else (like a speaker output).
 
The tetiary leads and spkr leads are the same color wires, that is why I did it like I did, so that you could tell the differance between the two differant sets of wires. It is not quite as simple as you are trying to make it.
 
The spkr taps read .2 , .3 and .4 , on 200 ohm scale . 15.5 and 2.1 are what the tetiary read. I think the OT secondary is shorted but will work if the tetiary are left disconected. Or if the red/org. 2 ohm side is isolated from chassis and comm. Connecting the wht 15 ohm side to the splitter grid nfb may work ok and dropping down the nfb resistor from 80 to maybe 1/2 of that. But I still dont know what to do with the 2 ohm side.
 
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The tetiary leads and spkr leads are the same color wires, that is why I did it like I did, so that you could tell the differance between the two differant sets of wires. It is not quite as simple as you are trying to make it.
Identify them in the resistance table in a distinguishable way. Like this:

Red (primary) to Green (primary) - 2 ohms
Red (primary) to Blue (primary) - 5 ohms
Red (primary) to Orange (primary) - 3 ohms
Red (primary) to Red (tertiary) - NC
Red (primary) to Orange (tertiary) - NC

Red (tertiary) to Green (primary) - NC
Red (tertiary) to Blue (primary) - NC
Red (tertiary) to Orange (primary) - NC
Red (tertiary) to Orange (tertiary) - 13 ohms
...etc...
 
The spkr taps read .2 , .3 and .4 , on 200 ohm scale . 15.5 and 2.1 are what the tetiary read.
This doesn't show resistance between speaker taps and the tertiary winding. That's why I'm suggesting to do a resistance table for the output transformer.

What kind of meter are you using to measure the resistance?
 
That seems unlikely, unless the transformer has been (badly) modified. There will almost certainly be at least a distinguishing stripe on the wire or (rarely) a coloured sleeve around the wire.
You are correct , on the 4 ohm spkr tap, it is yellow not white. the 8 ohm spkr tap is orange, your right the colors are differant.
 
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One wire you are correct on the 4 ohm spkr tap, it is yellow not white. But the 8 ohm red/org spkr tap and tetiary 2 ohm wire look identical.
What resistance do you measure between the red/org speaker tap and the tertiary red/org tap when both are disconnected from anything else?
 
I know that the speaker taps read very low ohms almost shorted but it still has loud volume. I dont know what to think at this point.
 
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