Best looking tuner

Hi Bill, thanks for the info. Can you provide a link to the mods for me? I have looked at that site several times and can't find the mods that you refer to.
The fellow that I purchased this from has already recapped the PS and the audio output board.
I'm not a tuner fanatic as some folks on here are, my reference is a Carver TX-11a tuner that I use in my SS system. This tuner is being used in my Mac tube system. I have since made a new red push button for the power switch that is an exact match for the missing one. I can say for sure that it is one heck of a pretty tuner. It really looks great.
Thanks

BillWojo
Hi Bill,
I just looked at the FMTUNERINFO site and you are correct, they are not there. I got the instructions direct from the gentleman who normally supplies many of these mods to the site. I found the email with these instructions. Note below he warns about the thin traces. Here they are:

For those who requested the Cit 18 mods, here ya go. There are some pictures attached and a copy of the mod recipe in Word format. Please post any questions and, Thanks for your patience.

Front End

Not much to do here, clean the tuning cap ground straps and isolate the 300 Ohm balun from the 75 Ohm antenna input.

IF Board

Composite SigPath
C15 - 47/25 to 56/35 Audio Grade Cap

De-couplingPanasonic FR/FM/FC
C10 - 4.7/35 to 10/50
C16 – 47/25 to 100/25
C20 – 10/25 to 33/35
C21 – 10/25 to 33/35
There is 1 three pin and 1, four pin ceramic filter yielding a total of 3 filters.There are some performance improvements available by replacing all filters with a matched set of GDT types and using one of Bill Ammons “Adder” boards with gain to makes up for the insertion loss of he GDTs.

MPX Board

Composite SigPath
C4 – 10/35 to 22/50Audio Grade

Audio SigPath
C17/19 – 10/35 to 22/35 Audio Grade
C18/20 – 10/50 to 22/50 Audio Grade

Decoupling
C2 – 330/16 to 1000/25
De-emph
R4/5 & C9/10/11/12/13/14
Check the values of the resistors and caps in the de-emph circuit.Experience has shown some OOS & substituted values in circuit. If replacement is necessary use 1% MetalFilm resistors and Polystyrene or PolypropyleneCaps, matched.If the high end of your 18 doesn’t sound right, check here.Also check the switch and make sure its set to the correct de-emph for your location.

Meter/Mute
C11 – 100/25 to 220/25
C13 – 10/25 to 22/25

Output Amplifier
Audio SigPathAudio Grade Caps
C21/24 – 4.7/35 to 10/50(Feed to Monitor Boards)
C22/25 – 1/50 to 10/50(Feed to Monitor Boards)
C5/15 – 1/50 to 10/35
C10/20 – 10/50 to 22/50
Decoupling
C2/4/12/14 – 2.2/50 to 10/50
C8/18 – 10/25 to 22/35
C23/26 – 220/16 to 680/25

Monitor Amplifier X 2
Audio
C2 – 4.7/35 to 10/50
C8/9 – 10/25 to 22/50
Decoupling
C1/5/6 – 220/16 to 470/25
Power Supply

Note that the PS board is actually 2 independent power supplies.The output from the CR1 bridge feeds the tuner proper and its sub systems.The output from the CR2 bridge is the B+/- for the 2 Monitor Amplifiers only.

Tuner
CR1 & 2Replace with a bridge assembles with Schottkeys or FREDs.
C12 – 1000/50 to 2700/50 (Nichicon HE)
C11 – 470/35 to 1200/35
C13/14 – 10/25 to 33/35
C15 – 100/25 to 330/25
And if you’re really into it, replace R3 with a 2W wirewound or KOA Speer

Monitors
C9/10 – 2200/25 to 3900/35
Notes:
The boards themselves are glass substrate (very good), the traces are not so good, watch the iron temp or you will be replacing/repairing traces.

Be careful when removing the boards, do not rock them side to side, you will crack the board supports.Best approach is to loosen the support retaining screws so the support has some play/movement.Don’t ask how I know this.
 
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