Best Method to Strip off Paint (Metal Speaker Stands/Plinths)

I also think I'll need to pre-treat it in some way to neutralize the rust. I've sanded as much off as I can and there's no pitting I can tell, but these seem to be steel or some other metal that isn't at all rust resistant. Even with the Citri-strip coated on there last night, the metal portions that didn't have paint already seemed to start generating rust.

I sanded and used a green scouring pad, and just wiped them with some mineral spirits to get the dust off. Here's what they look like now.

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I usually use 0000 steel wool and some stripper for the last step of getting remaining paint off.

Rust, I have some Naval Jelly which is phosphoric acid. Steel wool or better yet the green scrubby thing which won't dissolve in the acid. Gloves.

Finally a good metal primer. If there is surface rust, I like Rustoleum Rusty Metal Primer. It looks rust colored and will adhere to a surface rust coating (not loose rust). Or any good primer for metal, if you have the rust off.
 
I always use Aircraft Paint Stripper. Spray can. It makes short work and does not cost $20. One can for your job. You'll have a lot of leftover given the size if your stands. I have done whole cars with it.
 
Have not heard of Aircraft - looks like a Kleen Strip brand product sold at auto parts stores. Thanks for the tip. I like the old methylene chloride gel stuff, it's bad but it works dandy. I will keep this Aircraft stuff in mind.
 
Have not heard of Aircraft - looks like a Kleen Strip brand product sold at auto parts stores. Thanks for the tip. I like the old methylene chloride gel stuff, it's bad but it works dandy. I will keep this Aircraft stuff in mind.
we used to use the gel stuff by the gallon . got burned plenty of times .
 
I also think I'll need to pre-treat it in some way to neutralize the rust. I've sanded as much off as I can and there's no pitting I can tell, but these seem to be steel or some other metal that isn't at all rust resistant. Even with the Citri-strip coated on there last night, the metal portions that didn't have paint already seemed to start generating rust.

I sanded and used a green scouring pad, and just wiped them with some mineral spirits to get the dust off. Here's what they look like now.

Looks good, congrats on the progress with removing the paint. Lots of good products to deal with rust before a final coat. I would pick one and go for it.
 
I'd like your input on whether I need to treat the rust remnants or not. As mentioned above, I have seen the liquid treatment that will neutralize rust and convert it to primer, but unsure whether the technique you'll use requires this or not.
I have rust converter that turns rust into black oxide, and as some will know there are primers that are red oxide & black oxide. In other words the rust is neutralize and converted in essence to primer. I also have metal pretreatment, metal prep, it cleans and etches the metal prior to paint to give it more tooth, stops rust and removes oils for better adhesion.

I'm still of the belief that you will have to sand that rust off. As far as I know nothing else will stop the rust from continuing to erode underneath. If someone can confirm otherwise I'm all ears.
Read above.

but these seem to be steel or some other metal that isn't at all rust resistant.
Good job!!
The stands are made of weldable box steel and that means they have never been treated with anything and are raw steel. So as you know anytime you touch it the acids and salty oils in hands will rust it.
 
normally I would recommend an electrolytic tank, but seeing as those are made of rectangular tube I would be hesitant to recommend that as then you'll have to deal with the challenges of getting some kind of protective coating on the inside.

However you strip/refinish them, if you want them to last forever, I'd get something like "Frame Saver" (a spray that is intended for old steel frame bicycles to leave a waxy coating on the inside of the tubes) and treat the insides with it. You probably do want to not place them on carpet for a few days after said treatment however, to give the wax a chance to harden up and not drip out the holes.
 
Ok guy's in reading all these post, 85% are over kill as to the treatment and use of these stands. They are speaker stands, they go in a house like furniture, heated and dry. It's not a car that you wash, drive in the rain and park outside everyday.

I could finish these stands without any special treatment other than paint and if used inside of a home you'd never see any rust again. Rust needs moisture to grow.
 
Fair enough, maybe I am recommending overkill, but I grew up in western PA where twice a year bodywork was required to pass safety, even on 7-10 year old cars. So I do tend to go way over the top with anything made of steel when it comes to rust prevention.
 
My mom made 'cookies' with molasses?

  1. In a medium bowl, mix together the melted margarine, 1 cup sugar, and egg until smooth. Stir in the molasses. ...
  2. Preheat oven to 375 degrees F (190 degrees C). Roll dough into walnut sized balls, and roll them in the remaining white sugar. ...
  3. Bake for 8 to 10 minutes in the preheated oven, until tops are cracked.
http://allrecipes.com/recipe/9311/molasses-cookies/
 
Are those rustproof cookies?
And do they have any flour? It seems an unusual recipe for 'cookies'.
I do love me some molasses cookies though.

I agree with 427 on the level of effort required. I don't think rust will keep spreading once coated with paint (which keeps moisture and air out) and used indoors. The main thing is to get it to stick, which is why all the fussing about primers.
 
Update to this thread. Dan @4-2-7 refinished these for me this morning, explaining the hows and whys of each step. He used a metal conditioner, primer, and alternated between the textured truck bed liner spray and a flat black, applying multiple light coats of each until the primer layer was fully covered.

They look awesome now, and I really like the textured finish. They look better than new and I'll take a few shots with the speakers on top in a day or so. These are finishing curing/drying in my hot garage overnight.

IMG_0524.JPG IMG_0525.JPG IMG_0526.JPG

Huge thanks to @4-2-7 for taking the time to do this for me and teach me how to do this for myself next time! :beerchug::thumbsup:
 
Update to this thread. Dan @4-2-7 refinished these for me this morning, explaining the hows and whys of each step. He used a metal conditioner, primer, and alternated between the textured truck bed liner spray and a flat black, applying multiple light coats of each until the primer layer was fully covered.

They look awesome now, and I really like the textured finish. They look better than new and I'll take a few shots with the speakers on top in a day or so. These are finishing curing/drying in my hot garage overnight.

View attachment 968862 View attachment 968863 View attachment 968864

Huge thanks to @4-2-7 for taking the time to do this for me and teach me how to do this for myself next time! :beerchug::thumbsup:
Clever.
 
Hey Eric those look great, nice contrast. How are the speakers sounding now that you have easy adjustment of the angle.
 
Hey Eric those look great, nice contrast. How are the speakers sounding now that you have easy adjustment of the angle.

Well, they sound the same because I have them adjusted the same as before as far as tilt, but they look worlds better now. . .which always adds to the total experience. :thumbsup:
 
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