Best receiver to cut my teeth on recapping?

[Gavijo70]

Yes great info. Thank you.

 

[dlucy]

A few random pointers that may help or at least give you something to think about:

1. Taking many photos before you remove anything, taking care to capture the polarity marking on electrolytic caps and the pinouts of transistors, can be a huge help in many ways.

2. The printed markings, silkscreening, on the PCB are not necessarily correct. If you can, using a finepoint Sharpie or paint pen to note the polarity of ecaps and pinouts of transistors directly on the PCB as you remove each device will help. Important note: alcohol (IPA) and other cleaners or solvents can easily remove Sharpie. Sometimes before you wanted to remove it.

3. Cheap $20 component testers from Amazon, eBay or BangGood are great for testing the pinouts of the transistors. And testing diodes. And testing resistors. And testing capacitors. Really handy. Not perfect, but cheap and really handy. http://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/cheap-component-tester.749729/

4. hifiengine.com is your friend. get the schematics and the service manual for whatever unit you choose. the schematics will help make sense of everything.

5. AK is a huge group of geeks with opinions and knowledge and they LOVE answering questions. Don't be afraid to ask. AK'ers will help.

6. Replacement part choices are not always obvious. When it isn't 100% clear which part you need, either search for answers on AK or ask questions before ordering. Or both. Answers here are free. Choosing the wrong part often costs $7.99 in shipping. After 2-3 wrong parts, the value of asking other AK'ers gets more and more clear. It only took me 8-10 extra orders before I learned THAT lesson.

7. As @KingBubba said, consider replacing the trimpots while you're in there. The open frame trimpots will have had decades of oxidization eating away at them. You may not be able to get the exact right replacement value, but slightly over is fine. Taking care when you install and first test it to get the value roughly in the right place is a fine idea.

8. Relays also often fail due to mechanical wear or decades of decaying fields as they power down. The arching between the contacts can be cleaned, but coil damage is easier replaced than repaired.

9. Someone here, perhaps many people, will enjoy hearing about what you're doing and especially seeing what you're doing. Many people who come later will likely learn from whatever you ask about or tell us what you've done and the results. So, share what you do, please.

Cheers and good luck!

 

[hiwattnick]

Yah ... stuff nightmares are made of, right? Here's what all went back in on the rebuild.

Good quality components! CDE, Elna, Nichicon, Panasonic, etc. Nice, man!

 

[hiwattnick]

A few random pointers that may help or at least give you something to think about:

1. Taking many photos before you remove anything, taking care to capture the polarity marking on electrolytic caps and the pinouts of transistors, can be a huge help in many ways.

2. The printed markings, silkscreening, on the PCB are not necessarily correct. If you can, using a finepoint Sharpie or paint pen to note the polarity of ecaps and pinouts of transistors directly on the PCB as you remove each device will help. Important note: alcohol (IPA) and other cleaners or solvents can easily remove Sharpie. Sometimes before you wanted to remove it.

3. Cheap $20 component testers from Amazon, eBay or BangGood are great for testing the pinouts of the transistors. And testing diodes. And testing resistors. And testing capacitors. Really handy. Not perfect, but cheap and really handy. http://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/cheap-component-tester.749729/

4. hifiengine.com is your friend. get the schematics and the service manual for whatever unit you choose. the schematics will help make sense of everything.

5. AK is a huge group of geeks with opinions and knowledge and they LOVE answering questions. Don't be afraid to ask. AK'ers will help.

6. Replacement part choices are not always obvious. When it isn't 100% clear which part you need, either search for answers on AK or ask questions before ordering. Or both. Answers here are free. Choosing the wrong part often costs $7.99 in shipping. After 2-3 wrong parts, the value of asking other AK'ers gets more and more clear. It only took me 8-10 extra orders before I learned THAT lesson.

7. As @KingBubba said, consider replacing the trimpots while you're in there. The open frame trimpots will have had decades of oxidization eating away at them. You may not be able to get the exact right replacement value, but slightly over is fine. Taking care when you install and first test it to get the value roughly in the right place is a fine idea.

8. Relays also often fail due to mechanical wear or decades of decaying fields as they power down. The arching between the contacts can be cleaned, but coil damage is easier replaced than repaired.

9. Someone here, perhaps many people, will enjoy hearing about what you're doing and especially seeing what you're doing. Many people who come later will likely learn from whatever you ask about or tell us what you've done and the results. So, share what you do, please.

Cheers and good luck!

More great and well thought out info. Thank you!

 

[Gavijo70]

A few random pointers that may help or at least give you something to think about:

1. Taking many photos before you remove anything, taking care to capture the polarity marking on electrolytic caps and the pinouts of transistors, can be a huge help in many ways.

2. The printed markings, silkscreening, on the PCB are not necessarily correct. If you can, using a finepoint Sharpie or paint pen to note the polarity of ecaps and pinouts of transistors directly on the PCB as you remove each device will help. Important note: alcohol (IPA) and other cleaners or solvents can easily remove Sharpie. Sometimes before you wanted to remove it.

3. Cheap $20 component testers from Amazon, eBay or BangGood are great for testing the pinouts of the transistors. And testing diodes. And testing resistors. And testing capacitors. Really handy. Not perfect, but cheap and really handy. http://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/cheap-component-tester.749729/

4. hifiengine.com is your friend. get the schematics and the service manual for whatever unit you choose. the schematics will help make sense of everything.

5. AK is a huge group of geeks with opinions and knowledge and they LOVE answering questions. Don't be afraid to ask. AK'ers will help.

6. Replacement part choices are not always obvious. When it isn't 100% clear which part you need, either search for answers on AK or ask questions before ordering. Or both. Answers here are free. Choosing the wrong part often costs $7.99 in shipping. After 2-3 wrong parts, the value of asking other AK'ers gets more and more clear. It only took me 8-10 extra orders before I learned THAT lesson.

7. As @KingBubba said, consider replacing the trimpots while you're in there. The open frame trimpots will have had decades of oxidization eating away at them. You may not be able to get the exact right replacement value, but slightly over is fine. Taking care when you install and first test it to get the value roughly in the right place is a fine idea.

8. Relays also often fail due to mechanical wear or decades of decaying fields as they power down. The arching between the contacts can be cleaned, but coil damage is easier replaced than repaired.

9. Someone here, perhaps many people, will enjoy hearing about what you're doing and especially seeing what you're doing. Many people who come later will likely learn from whatever you ask about or tell us what you've done and the results. So, share what you do, please.

Cheers and good luck!

All good info thanks. I'm doing some reading up and watching some good videos. When i dive in to this 450 I'm sure I will be graciously hand led along by the great folks here on AK. This site has been a fantastic resource in this hobby. It's funny what got me in to this hobby was a Yamaha YP-B2 turtable I found at a barn sale in nowhere Alabama. Got it home and nothing worked. after a ton of research I found the same motor was in a Marantz table of the same year. Sourced one on eBay, cleaned everything up and resoldered all connections and reassembled the whole thing. It's not top of the line or all that valuable, but there's not a square inch on this table my hands haven't been and it's probably my most prized item in my setup. To me that's what its all about.

 

[ConradH]

+1 on photos. Taking a bunch of shots costs nothing and has saved my butt on far more than one occasion. Get close ups from every angle, top and bottom. Hey, where did that busted wire go? Wait, I don't think that cap polarity matched the silkscreening when I took it apart. Wow, they used two identical connectors. I wonder which one went in which header? Oh heck, which polarity output transistor went in which socket again? You get the idea, and you're not even old and confused.

 

[dlucy]

It's funny what got me in to this hobby was a Yamaha YP-B2 turtable I found at a barn sale in nowhere Alabama. Got it home and nothing worked. after a ton of research I found the same motor was in a Marantz table of the same year. Sourced one on eBay, cleaned everything up and resoldered all connections and reassembled the whole thing. It's not top of the line or all that valuable, but there's not a square inch on this table my hands haven't been and it's probably my most prized item in my setup. To me that's what its all about.

Out-standing!