Best solder for audio

tsd71

RIP Tom Petty
Subscriber
What is the best solder for restoring vintage electronics, solid state mostly. I'm running out and the tag is missing off my spool.
 
I'm with him. Most any 60/40 or 63/37 rosin core solder works just dandy. Kester is nice, but I'm cheap. Last I priced a roll at digikey, it was like 50 bucks for a pound. I can get half pound rolls from Radio Shack for 15 bucks, and I can just drive by there. Honestly its the only thing I go to RS for.
 
If you have to go boutique, RS has silver solder in thin and too thin, 1.5 and 1.0 ounce package for 7.5 or 7 bucks respectively. I got a roll to do a friends machine but I use the 60/40 or 63/37 for almost everything.

Or you can go for the full boutique solders from WBT or Cardas. These get expensive, even at 100 grams, making the RS silver solder a good way to go. Not really cheaper but a nice small package that will last plenty long if you are not going to use the silver older all the time.

Everyone will say to use a solder that melts, i.e. contains lead. The lead-free stuff is not as easy to use.

Tell us what you decide.
 
I use Ersin Multicore 60/40 tin-lead solder. Back when Frank Van Alstine offered some of his preamps in kit form, this was what he included with the kits. I'm not sure if it's the type of rosin flux or the multiple flux cores that make it so easy to use, but it's the most user-friendly solder I've ever tried.
 
Once you try the eutectic alloy (63/37), you'll never go back to 60/40.

MG Chemical one pound roll is $25 at Fry's.
 
I've used 63/37 rosin core since 1972. My guess is many others here use eutectic as well.
 
Cardas Quad Eutectic. Never gone back to anything else.
Downside is it's about $80 a pound.

I tried it, very nice to work with. Very expensive. I'll look for a cheaper 63/37 mix. RS thin silver imparts a little more strength for certain jobs.
 
Some manufactures specify Ag solder on their new gear. I read it does improve the performance and you that will notice the difference.

Randy
 
As long as it is a properly made joint, I call BS on Ag solder. I can't hear any difference between lead free, 63/37, or 60/40. But 63/37 is wonderful to work with, so I use it now. I used to use a RadioShack 60/40 spool, and it is nice, but wanted some Kester 63/37 (I had an OLD roll that I finished of Kester 60/40 solder) and liked the flux in the Kester better. Smells better and seems to clean a bit better.
 
I found a vintage 5 lb spool of Kester 44. I was worried that it was slightly oxidized (not super shiny) but it works great as far as I can tell. That is a lifetime supply for me probably.
 
I use Kester 63/37 and it is amazing to work with. I've used everything including rosin-free which requires you to clean the surfaces manually yourself (huge pain, but it was an exercise in an electronics workshop to demonstrate a point). I'd stay away from the Pb-free though, with the tin whiskers and all. As long as you use 60/40 or 63/37 and its intended for electronics, it shouldn't really matter. A good joint is going to go a lot farther than exact brand of solder.
 
To revise an old thread, I'm looking to purchase some new solder. The Kester 63/37 looks good, but I wondered what size to get? Amazon has .031 and .020 available.

Also, do you clean off the rosin afterwards? What is a good method of doing that?

Thanks!
 
I have some .015 that is too small for regular work but good for very small stuff. Take a couple inches to load a glob on the board when replacing a cap for example. So I would recommend the .031 as better and to not load globs but to flow a good fillet.
 
Back
Top Bottom