Best way to clean Marantz face plates?

I tried the magic eraser on my 3600 and a st400 tuner with a champagne face plate I use in my shop. I took it easy on the tuner though,and WOW! I had no problems with it being too abrasive. They both cleaned up real nice. I'm not sure its wise to use on colored face plates like the tuner has but I tried it anyway, its just an old beater I use in my shop. I'll be using the eraser on the rest of my equipment. Thanks for the idea bktheking!
 
Hmm, I've used it for a couple years and have had good luck with it. Hasn't removed any lettering and gets out the most stubborn of stains. Gives it a brilliant shine as well and even able to remove some slight blemishes. :scratch2:

Great thread with great info and advice. However, aren't you guys forgetting something, provide some before and after proof!

:worthless
 
I tried the magic eraser on my 3600 and a st400 tuner with a champagne face plate I use in my shop. I took it easy on the tuner though,and WOW! I had no problems with it being too abrasive. They both cleaned up real nice. I'm not sure its wise to use on colored face plates like the tuner has but I tried it anyway, its just an old beater I use in my shop. I'll be using the eraser on the rest of my equipment. Thanks for the idea bktheking!

Cool- it's a common sense thing- don't go crazy cleaning the lettering, go light on it, go heavy on the aluminum. They look like new once you are done.
 
Magic eraser works amazing. It will not harm your lettering if you don't go crazy scrubbing. It is melamine foam so it is micro abrasive and the foam takes most of beating which is why they fall apart when you use them. +1 also on the baby oil comment, I use mineral oil on them after cleaned up. Makes almost a wet metal look.
 
I know some will be dubious but I use Soft Scrub. I've used it many times and never had an issue with it removing lettering.

I put a small spot in the sink and get a small amount on a wet sponge so that it's fairly dilute. Gently distribute it on the face plate. Wipe it off with a rinsed sponge then rinse. I am careful not to rub too hard on the lettering but I do clean those areas too. very little scrubbing involved.

Seems scary but after all, it is intended to be used on chrome bathroom fixtures.

I'm more leery of Magic Eraser. I used it to remove some black scuffs from my truck and it dulled the paint.

John
 
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Anything with abrasives is a no go. Dish soap and water are the first line of attack. For tougher stains like finger grease embedded in the finish and the dreaded dried tape residue, I use naphta spirits. Naphta works on Magic Marker.
 
I used a Magic Eraser on the face of a 2230. I was being as gentle as I could, watching the face and eraser at the end of each stroke. After a few strokes I saw that it was just starting to affect the lettering as I saw black on the eraser and trails of black on the faceplate.

I did soak it in hot water and dish soap for about 15 minutes before the eraser. Don't know if this has a bearing or not.
 
I use one product for aluminum faces and wood cases both. "Panel Magic" from Home Depot. It gets down in and cuts/lifts grime from the brushed anodized, leaves an ultra thin film that blends the effect of missing anodized away, and works on a wood case to keep the luster rich and full. (Janitorial section and part of a full line of products for use with stainless,stone,wood etc...)

Hot soap and water first (and this stuff) brings so many things "back" it isn't funny. (I use it for things it isn't even designed for in restoration.....if your a "thinker" it's make-up and working characteristics are a HUGE resource.)
 
What is did was, dis amble all the parts on my 2385, then clean it with vinager, and after that i used a spray cleaning wax, with a lot of patience...when i assemble again the face plate, it looked great, it has very deep scratches that i guees i'll have to live with, but overall I'm pretty satisfied. Remember to use soft cloth to do it. (maybe I'm too cautious)... Best of luck
 
I used a Magic Eraser on the face of a 2230. I was being as gentle as I could, watching the face and eraser at the end of each stroke. After a few strokes I saw that it was just starting to affect the lettering as I saw black on the eraser and trails of black on the faceplate.

I did soak it in hot water and dish soap for about 15 minutes before the eraser. Don't know if this has a bearing or not.


No doubt, the hot water probably heated up the lettering enough to have anything you would have used to scrub take it off.
 
The magic eraser worked great for me. I used warm soapy water. I didn't scrub it as hard as I could though. Just gentle scrubbing and was very careful around the lettering.
 
Simple green for grime. Followed by window cleaner to get the streaks. Follow up with Turtle ICE liquid car polish to really make it gleam.
 
IMG_20160702_183406.jpg I used braso and a magic eraser on this. I did a test on the hidden letters under the selector dial and you really had to rub hard before the letter started to even come off.IMG_20160702_183417.jpg
 
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I just soak them in warm water and soap. Very simple and non abrasive. I usually soak it for around 30 minutes. The nicotine and crud wipes right off. I also soak the knobs in hot soapy water then use a toothbrush to clean.
Works like a charm.
Do you just pull on the knobs to take them off???
 
Do you just pull on the knobs to take them off???
Take two spoons and put the tips of both spoons on opposite sides under the knob. Of course, protect the metal faceplate with tape or paper. Push both spoon handles down with even pressure and the knob should lift off without damage.
 
I use TR3 car wax on all my face plates. Cleans, shines, all in one step and have never had a abrasion or letter removing episode.
 
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