I've used it on Advents, Jensens, Marantz and Bose. Yes, it's okay for use on your Advents. You'll see.:thmbsp:
Best way to restore wood/veneer speaker cabinets?
- Thread starter kray
- Start date
I've used it on Advents, Jensens, Marantz and Bose. Yes, it's okay for use on your Advents. You'll see.:thmbsp:
Tighelander
Member
I recently used Howard's light Oak RAF on a pair of Dynaco A25s, and some scratches came out darker than the good wood. I think next time I would dab some sealer on deep scratches or dents. Also I sampled it on a "Coral" speaker cabinet and it revealed a round stain that wasn't noticeable before.
boreas
"If it sounds good, it IS good." E.K.E.
That's one of the reasons I tend to cringe when people suggest Restor-a-Finish as an easy one-step restoration. R-a-F is a very dense stain, denser than other penetrating stains and when applying it to a scratched surface more of it is absorbed by the damaged and broken fibers in the scratch than is absorbed by adjacent undamaged areas. This makes the scratch darker than the surrounding wood.
John
Please see post #30. Just as each speaker sounds different, each speakers current finish and the restoration of it requires an analysis of the current finish and then determining the best method to achieve the desired results.
Howards is NOT magic in a can, and it may achieve the results you desire if limited experience, time, money, and tools are at a minimum. An excellent or near perfect finish still requires analysis and choosing the correct method(s) to get it that way.
So, all being said, each finish and the restoration of it is different, and NOT a "one size fits all" type of thing. Good luck to all.
zls1camaro
Active Member
I've also restored a bunch of speakers using different methods for kicks.... First pair, A light sand followed by watco Danish oil makes for durable hard surface.... The oil hardens the wood -- four coats and the walnut feels like a rock. No clear or protective coats needed with Danish oil. These coats and dry time make for a long process 2 weeks.
Recently I restored a pair of walnut klh 17s -- using a sanding 150/220/320 grits, color with by varathane gel stain, followed by watco spray lacquer. I love the gel stain, easy to work with..... But the gel needs a cover. The watco satin spray is real elegant.
My current project calls for a complete reveneer over the old, klh 5. -- these we're really rough, no corners - a fair amount of damage, but solid components. Using peel and stick walnut for the first time. I usually use paperback and glue. Not sure about color type yet.... I took the hard way as winter project.... But in the end these will look new.
I tend to go for a restore refinish that'll stand up to close scrutiny.
Recently I restored a pair of walnut klh 17s -- using a sanding 150/220/320 grits, color with by varathane gel stain, followed by watco spray lacquer. I love the gel stain, easy to work with..... But the gel needs a cover. The watco satin spray is real elegant.
My current project calls for a complete reveneer over the old, klh 5. -- these we're really rough, no corners - a fair amount of damage, but solid components. Using peel and stick walnut for the first time. I usually use paperback and glue. Not sure about color type yet.... I took the hard way as winter project.... But in the end these will look new.
I tend to go for a restore refinish that'll stand up to close scrutiny.
Do you have any before and after photos we can take a look at?
zls1camaro
Active Member
I will post pics on the 17s later this week...traveling to Vegas today. These look new with the refinish and sound new with the new caps. i found some very nice fabric.... Ive been on the prowl for fabric, not being happy what i found on line. sheer drapery fabric works great. You will find creative weaves and plenty of mesh for the sound to move through. Go to fabric guru .com.
I will also post progression pics of the 5s... This is long process making the cabs ready for new veneer....I have about 8 hours into the cabs and they are almost ready....
I will also post progression pics of the 5s... This is long process making the cabs ready for new veneer....I have about 8 hours into the cabs and they are almost ready....
punchback
Active Member
I to have some KLH speakers that I plan on re-veneering. In my case they are 23's. What all have you done to prep the cabs for the new veneer. I'm keenly interested in any information on this subject. How do you plan on gluing the veneer? I have some quarter sawn Australian walnut veneer that I plan on book matching two pieces together. I may have bit off more than i can chew on this but...
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zls1camaro
Active Member
I am not an expert on veneer by any means -- but I have used several types.. paper back primarily put down with Titebond II glue with great success, even doing receivers --
http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=485257
and for this KLH 5 project I plan to use walnut veneer with 3m peel n stick adhesive per a recommendation by a friend who is a cabinetmaker. I always enough veneer to cover each surface.
My prep includes fixing all the banged up corners....filling holes etc, leveling, and then removing the veneer where it meets the front face frame.... This is tedious but I did not want to cover the sides of the front trim. You can here where I removed the veneer where if butt sup to the face frame -- frame not yet sanded or prepped.
Is your walnut paperback??? PM me and I can guide you on the glue method.
http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=485257
and for this KLH 5 project I plan to use walnut veneer with 3m peel n stick adhesive per a recommendation by a friend who is a cabinetmaker. I always enough veneer to cover each surface.
My prep includes fixing all the banged up corners....filling holes etc, leveling, and then removing the veneer where it meets the front face frame.... This is tedious but I did not want to cover the sides of the front trim. You can here where I removed the veneer where if butt sup to the face frame -- frame not yet sanded or prepped.
Is your walnut paperback??? PM me and I can guide you on the glue method.
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Me? I'm compulsive:
Chemical strip, hot steam iron, sanding with finishing sander and by hand, mineral spirits bath with 0000 steel wool, stain, minwax tung oil 2-3X, finish off with spray lacquer and coat of wax applied with 0000 wool.
Of course, only for that which I'm keeping.
Chemical strip, hot steam iron, sanding with finishing sander and by hand, mineral spirits bath with 0000 steel wool, stain, minwax tung oil 2-3X, finish off with spray lacquer and coat of wax applied with 0000 wool.
Of course, only for that which I'm keeping.
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zls1camaro
Active Member
What is the mineral bath for?
If I understand it correctly, mineral spirits will take off any residual oil, wax, or other finish generally right down to the bare wood, thereby allowing the new finish to have an even takeup by the wood that remains.
Mech is right. Washing down with mineral spirits will give it a final cleaning before you start on your finishing products. It'll also give yu a last look at imperfections in the wood and a peek at how it'll look. Altho it smells going on, it evaporates pretty quickly.
And sorry, by "bath" I don't mean soaking. Just a generous wiping.
And sorry, by "bath" I don't mean soaking. Just a generous wiping.
IIRC, the smell is kinda bad, are there any mineral spirits that smell halfway decent?
BTW, always when working with solvents, do it in a well ventilated area away from any pilot lights or ignition sources.
There is "low" odor and I believe "no" odor mineral spirits but I never had the pleasure. I like the smell; makes me feel like I did something when I pass out. :thmbsp:
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boreas
"If it sounds good, it IS good." E.K.E.
The stuff I have on hand right now, Klean-Strip, has virtually no odor and what little there is is sort of pleasant.
John
Heh, looks like I picked the wrong week to stop sniffing mineral spirits!
zls1camaro
Active Member
I also diagree with the post about veneer not being thick enough to sand -- there's plenty if you use caution especially using power tools. Best done by hand with a block. Sand only to smooth, remove any clear coats, not to remove color. Gel stain covers a lot of sins and is perfect for covering blemishes, restoring color and more, because part of the pigments remain on the surface. I have sanded through speaker veneer in some cases --edges, etc-- and the gel always covers em up. Gel stain also covers wood filler nicely blending the repair. Really idiot proof and incredibly easy.
could someone please explain this process?
