BIC Venturi Formula 4 recap and restoration

Discussion in 'Speakers' started by Jeremy Pare, May 22, 2018.

  1. JayPare

    JayPare AK Subscriber Subscriber

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    Got it:
    http://foamspeakergrilles.com/
     

     

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  2. JayPare

    JayPare AK Subscriber Subscriber

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    I know it's been a long time but time is rare these days. I'm currently placing my order for caps and I wonder if I should replace the film and the electrolytic capacitor with the Mundford ecap of only the electrolytic and get film from Mundford for the film one. If you recommend the later, there seems to have a bunch of different film capacitor for those caps:

    upload_2018-12-18_11-19-38.png

    Which one would tou recommend? Thanks again!
     
  3. toxcrusadr

    toxcrusadr Omelette au Fromage Subscriber

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    I would stick with film where the manuf. put film.

    I don't know the Mundorf lines worth jack so this comment is a general one. If you click on any of the individual caps at Parts Connexion (and probably at Mundorf too) you can find a pdf sheet about that line. It will tell you a few things about the construction mixed with some flowery language about its benefits (not picking on Mundorf, everyone does that).

    Also, look at the cost in comparison to where your speakers sit in the vast continuum of audio quality. Not junk, not very expensive high end, but somewhere in between. You probably want to spend an amount commensurate with that. Maybe (maybe!) the super high end expensive caps do have improvements over cheaper ones, but chances are if the speakers can't resolve those tiny differences, you're not going to hear them anyway. Kind of like putting racing tires on a Chevette. I probably wouldn't spend $69 on a cap for a speaker that's worth a couple hundred, for example. But I might spend $10 if I really like the speakers.

    Someone will hopefully come along and recommend which of these 14 types of caps is good. You can also search AK for "Mundorf" and see what people are using.
     
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  4. toxcrusadr

    toxcrusadr Omelette au Fromage Subscriber

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    Actually here's a better link. I like the way they have this laid out: a full description AND prices together for each type.

    http://www.mundorf.com/en/?category=hifi&menu=caps_audio&content=mcap

    They're laid out in price order on the list at the left. The cheapest 1 uf is the MCap ($2.79), middle of the line MCap Supreme is $14.90, and the SilverGold Oil is - haha this is funny - $69. I swear I didn't look at that till after I posted the above, which was just pulled out of the air.

    Also there are some lines like the EVO that are only offered in limited values (all <1 uf) so that may eliminate some entire lines from consideration.
     
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  5. StimpyWan

    StimpyWan AK Subscriber Subscriber

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    I've mainly used Mundorf EVO Oil caps. MKP's, and E-Caps as well. I think any combination would be worth your time and money. MKP or EVO Oils for your film caps, and E-caps for the electrolytics. All good, but the EVO Oils are very good. Clean and open.
     
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  6. JayPare

    JayPare AK Subscriber Subscriber

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    @StimpyWan and @toxcrusadr, approved?

    upload_2018-12-18_13-37-4.png

    15µF + 1µF electrolytic to replace my 16µF electrolytic,
    4.7µF electrolytic to replace my 4.7µF electrolytic
    0.47µF film to replace my 0.5µF film
    1µF film to replace my 1µf film
     

     

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  7. StimpyWan

    StimpyWan AK Subscriber Subscriber

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    That looks good. But, a word of warning; the EVO Oils are large capacitors. Check their dimensions, to be sure they'll fit your crossover board. If too big, maybe step back to the MKP's. A nice, dynamic capacitor, that's a bit smaller, due to their lower voltages.
     
  8. JayPare

    JayPare AK Subscriber Subscriber

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    I'm doing a brand new PCB for them! :) I will proceed with this! :) Thank you very much for your inputs guys!
     
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  9. JayPare

    JayPare AK Subscriber Subscriber

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    New PCB with brand new caps:

    upload_2018-12-27_16-44-2.png

    Still need to solder everything and add the inductor coils.
     
  10. borus

    borus Luthier tube guy Subscriber

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  11. JayPare

    JayPare AK Subscriber Subscriber

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    What if I have 3? :confused:
     

     

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  12. toxcrusadr

    toxcrusadr Omelette au Fromage Subscriber

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    3 inductors? They can each point in a different dimension.

    Also they can be the same direction as long as they are not too close. And avoid poking a nearby one with the axis of an inductor. i.e. 4 and 5 in the linked diagram are bad but 6 and 7 are OK.
     
  13. toxcrusadr

    toxcrusadr Omelette au Fromage Subscriber

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    Note also that a lot of crossovers are made with 'bad' alignments that seem to sound fine. It's best practice to do it right though.
     
  14. JayPare

    JayPare AK Subscriber Subscriber

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    What do you guys think? :)
    IMG_20181230_172258.jpg
     
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  15. RTally

    RTally Speaker addict Subscriber

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    Good job orienting the inductors to avoid cross-coupling.

    That looks like a hex head bolt holding down the inductor in the upper-left. Don't do that. The bolt will act as a core and change the inductance of the coil. It would be better to use tie-wraps to hold it in place, similar to what was done for the others. If you feel it must be bolted down, use a nylon bolt.
     
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  16. JayPare

    JayPare AK Subscriber Subscriber

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    Ok I will tie-wrap this one too! Thanks for you input! :)
     
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  17. JayPare

    JayPare AK Subscriber Subscriber

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  18. JayPare

    JayPare AK Subscriber Subscriber

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    Before:
    IMG_20180522_204257.jpg
     

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  19. toxcrusadr

    toxcrusadr Omelette au Fromage Subscriber

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    Lookin' good! How do they sound?
     
  20. JayPare

    JayPare AK Subscriber Subscriber

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    Still have too listen to them I only tried them a little bit yesterday but from what I've heard for now, real good!
    However, they seems to draw more current than before? Can it be? I tried to listen to them at a high level and my amp was clipping, but I'm pretty sure I was able to go that high before...
     

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