Bose amp in a 2008 Corvette & what happens when you try & replace your own battery

try changing a battery on new cars and not messing up the polarity .. seems you need to tell one of the cars computers to learn all about the new battery or it freaks out .
 
try changing a battery on new cars and not messing up the polarity .. seems you need to tell one of the cars computers to learn all about the new battery or it freaks out .

There is a method/procedure to it with all the computers in cars now, but it really isn't that difficult.

First you get a memory saver battery pack that plugs into the car's diagnostic port. This saves all the computer's memory settings, including your clock & radio settings. These are reasonably priced and you can get them at any auto parts store. (Make sure it has a full charge!) Next you disconnect the negative battery cable, then the positive cable. The remove the old battery. Then install the new battery in it's tray. Then you connect the positive cable (which is clearly marked in RED with a big + sign on it) to the positive terminal of the battery. Then you connect the negative cable to the negative battery terminal. Then you remove the memory saver pack and you are done. Everything is CLEARLY marked on every car brought into the USA. It has to be by law. If you don't know what the labels mean or what the proper order is, you shouldn't be anywhere near a car with tools. Do yourself a favor and let the professionals do it and do the professionals a favor.......stop trying to say we are ripping you off when you have no clue how to even begin working on one of today's cars.

People here have no qualms about spending hundreds of dollars to an electronics tech (who may or may not be professionally trained in electronics) to get their stereo fixed, yet they seem to have issues with the car dealers of their make of car charging them similar rates to get their car fixed by people who are factory trained on how to fix their car. :dunno::idea::crazy:

The moral of this story is that the owner of the Corvette should have had the battery replaced by a pro, since he obviously didn't really know what he was doing when trying to change his own battery. What would have cost him $50 for installation of that new battery ended up costing him $1400 in parts & labor to fix his mistake because he thought he could do it himself and save a couple of $$ by doing so.
 
Ok, so I finally was able to snap some pics of the "southern fried Bose amp"........my finger is pointing to the burned trace and to the main diode (only discreet one that I can see too) on the board, which does test as bad (shorted). I've spent some time testing the rest of the components on the board and I think this is the only damage done to this amp. My place of work asked the owner of the Corvette if he wanted his old fried amp back and he said no. So......I grabbed it from the scrap pile. Looks like it will be an easy fix (which I plan on doing) and it shouldn't be too hard to test it after the repair is done.
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Where do they hide the Bose amp in the C6?
 
Where do they hide the Bose amp in the C6?

It's located behind the passenger side kick panel in the footwell area, at least on the coupe anyway. I believe the convertible is in the same area, but I haven't had to replace one in a convertible yet. BTW, this was also the first one that I had to replace in a C6 coupe, so people badmouthing Bose here is rather unfounded IMO. Also something to note, there are two versions of this amp. One for the coupe & one for the convertible. I believe the mounting pattern is slightly different, but there could also be a minor difference in the electronics having to do with the incremental speed/volume increase function. It could be louder on the convertible, but I'm not sure and it's an educated guess as to why the part number differences on my part....aka...speculation.
 
I have to say while I don't care for Bost, their factory car audio stuff is usually good. My Mazda RX-8 has it, and the AudioPilot works pretty well. It has a microphone that listens to road noise and tries to cancel the noise out and adjust the EQ to compensate all automagicaly, and it does work.

Besides from that cool technology, it does sound pretty good as far as factory stereo systems are concerned.
 
That component on the circuit board appears to have gotten quite hot. Given the size, I'd suggest it is a reverse voltage protection diode or, perhaps, an overvoltage clamp diode (aka: zener). We use them in the ham radios my company produces.

I'd suggest it be changed and the amp brought up on a variac or dead bulb tester.

Cheers,

David
 
That component on the circuit board appears to have gotten quite hot. Given the size, I'd suggest it is a reverse voltage protection diode or, perhaps, an overvoltage clamp diode (aka: zener). We use them in the ham radios my company produces.

I'd suggest it be changed and the amp brought up on a variac or dead bulb tester.

Cheers,

David

Yes, I believe it is, like you say, a reverse voltage protection diode. It is a 2A Schottky Barrier Rectifier, Fast Switching, Surface Mount DO214AA Type Package diode, as I have found in my brief research. A $.50 component. It is blown, as I tested it with my multimeter on the diode setting. I have already ordered a replacement for it. The circuit board trace will be fixed at the same time.
 
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