Butcher Block Buy for Flexi Rack

Discussion in 'Listening Spaces' started by Old Guy8, Jan 18, 2018.

  1. ETLS

    ETLS metacarpophalangealcranium Subscriber

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    FWIW, the half inch threaded rod, and half inch plywood held a Sony STR-V7 AND a half dozen other pieces of equipment, on 16" x 25" shelves for several years.

    It's a shame miles prevent you from dropping by my shop. Otherwise I'd be happy to help with the woodworking projects.

    Post some pics when you're finished.
     
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  2. grillebilly

    grillebilly Empty Head Subscriber

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    I bored them for the threaded aluminum and brass posts

    stereopuck.jpg
     
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  3. grillebilly

    grillebilly Empty Head Subscriber

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    Hard to tell but this stand has 20 pucks, 1/4 " steel shelves weigh 73 pounds each

    standdone.jpg
     
  4. Bob in WI

    Bob in WI AK Subscriber Subscriber

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    Damn - I don't know anybody famous.
     
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  5. Old Guy8

    Old Guy8 AK Subscriber Subscriber

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    IMG_20180118_210306.jpg
    Pulled wrapping off so you can get a look. Radius edges look pretty good. Should look nice with a cherry stain on it. A few missing knots or cracks in knots. Guessing 25+# per board.
     
  6. Old Guy8

    Old Guy8 AK Subscriber Subscriber

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    First thought is that's overkill. Until you see the shelves aren't going to show any bow!
     
  7. Yamaki

    Yamaki Not For Hire Subscriber

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    I used neoprene washers between steel washers on top and bottom of the wood shelves to make sure the flexy didn't flex.

    I also used 1/2" all thread for the posts and did a four corner arrangement for stability.
     
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  8. Old Guy8

    Old Guy8 AK Subscriber Subscriber

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    Thanks for offer. If I make it to Texas again to visit dozens of cousins or to Kileen/ Ft. Hood again. I'll put the boards in the car.
     
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  9. TomBig58

    TomBig58 AK Subscriber Subscriber

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    Like minds OG8. I too saw that ad in the Menards sale paper. While I have no plans right now to build a flexi-rack and really no time for ANY project that nice top for $50 was something that made me go "Hmmmm". I think I will go there tomorrow and pick up two.
     
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  10. 4thChoice

    4thChoice AK Subscriber Subscriber

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    What you are proposing sounds good and similar to what I plan. I am planning on a walnut live edge flexi rack. I will be using black oxide thread rods w/ grade 8 nuts & washers with felt (vice rubber) washers. I like the "look" of the "gold" colored grade 8 stuff on the black thread rods. I too thought about slipping copper pipe over zinc thread rods but opted to go with the black oxide rods and grade 8 nuts/washers instead.
     
  11. 4thChoice

    4thChoice AK Subscriber Subscriber

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    OLD Guy 8, sorry to step on your thread but have a question for grillebilly - what is that table on the top left? I've got a Denon DP-61F and yours looks similar. Point is - what is your cartridge, I am looking/searching for a new one for mine.
     
  12. grillebilly

    grillebilly Empty Head Subscriber

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    It is indeed a 61-F. I have a Denon DL-110 on it. I really like it and have one on the Sansui next to the Denon. I bought 3 when they were cheap. I am now wanting to put something different on the 838, makes little sense to have identical carts on my two main tables. Plus, I have switched to a tube amp, with about half the WPC I was using.
     
  13. jcamero

    jcamero The sun will shine in my back door someday Subscriber

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  14. Old Guy8

    Old Guy8 AK Subscriber Subscriber

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    Been searching for hardware options:

    McmasterCarr has 5/8-11male thread rubber wheel casters. Not cheap. Could use with female thread couplers to attach to rods.
    They also have various ID black steel washers with bonded 65 duro rubber one side. Depending on rubber thickness might work better that loose rubber washers.
    5/8-11threaded rod, black oxided available in 3' length.
    Could use black oxided or contrasting gold class 8 hex nuts.
    Acorn nuts for top ends.

    For drilling shelves:
    Will need 5/8" auger bit for power drilling shelves. Forstner bit I have is too short for 4-1/2" depth. Or use hand drill for better control at breakthrough. Three shelves clamped together, and make sure bit is perpendicular.
     
    Last edited: Jan 20, 2018
  15. TomBig58

    TomBig58 AK Subscriber Subscriber

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    Considering the distance between the shelves I don't think it's necessary to stack drill, just a little more layout time. Even brand new 5/8" spade bit will work if you drill a 3/16" pilot and then drill the block from both sides to control breakthrough. 5/8-11 mount casters? I can imagine they are pricey! Harbor Freight tools has a great selection of casters on the cheap. They are standard 4 bolt mount though.
     
  16. Old Guy8

    Old Guy8 AK Subscriber Subscriber

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    Tom,
    Reason I'm thinking stack drilling is difficulty of layout. I don't have a large square to accurately layout positions. Could buy a 48" drywall square. Only $11. But would not likely use again. Might be good idea though, so I'm only drilling 1-1/2" depth.

    I worked in shop where we made auger bits for electricians. Hence my avoiding spade drills, for ragged holes I've seen from them. I have a 3/4" auger with single spur, but think too much clearance. Screw points are less likely to walk, IMO. If drilling only one board, may be able to use forstner bit I have.

    The 5/8"-11thread locking casters start at about $33 each. Yeah, expensive. Overkill load capacity. May forgo casters for some flange fittings. Put adhesive back felt carpet on bottom for sliding on vinyl plank flooring.
     
    Last edited: Jan 21, 2018
  17. Dingman

    Dingman Do you know where your towel is? Subscriber

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    I like the appearance of the copper but of course, shelves aren't easily adjustable. But personally, I really, really don't like exposed all-thread. Probably because of many years in the electrical industry. I can't tolerate exposed all-thread.
     
  18. TomBig58

    TomBig58 AK Subscriber Subscriber

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    Not knowing exactly the design can't you just layout your holes from the corners? Starting with a square piece I don't get the need for a long square you should be able to get by with a small square or even a tape measure and a straight edge. IMO 3/4" hole is kind of sloppy for 5/8" rod. 5/8 for tight or max 11/16". Irwin makes a good spade bit with outer points that define the diameter of the drilled hole before the flat spade comes in to contact but still blows out the bottom. A small (very straight) pilot hole should keep the spade from walking. Are you using a drill press? It's kind of tough to stay perpendicular by hand through stacked 4 1/2 or 6" of material that's for sure. Young buck welding shop experience taught me all I need to know about layout as well as stack drilling/cutting, etc so I know the pitfalls.

    Anyway I DID go and pick up a couple of those slabs at Menard's late yesterday just before the sale ended. I have a couple of possible projects for them. Keep the faith and good luck with the project.
     

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  19. Old Guy8

    Old Guy8 AK Subscriber Subscriber

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    Tom,
    Thanks for ideas. Think I'll just drill one shelf at time. 5/8" holes. Threaded rod should be a close fit. Round file if alignment issue. Have access to a drill press, if I can setup a table next to it for shelf support. Be few weeks before start of project.
    You'll find use for the blocks.
     
  20. TomBig58

    TomBig58 AK Subscriber Subscriber

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    Yeah, if you just carefully ream the drilled hole with whatever bit you use...up and down a few times, you'll find the rod will easily go through a hole drilled the same diameter. 11/16ths is probably better because your not going to get much give through that thick material or those beefy rods if you ARE a little out of square (perpendicular) with your holes.
     
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