Buying A Multi-Meter

[parman]

So what do I need to do general testing work on my vintage gear? I've been looking at starter models in the $20 to $40 range. The $20 ones have about 6 functions and the $40 ones have 11. The one brand is Ames and the other is General something. These are the kind they sell at Home Depot or the hardware. I noticed the lower price ones are manual and the higher are auto. Don't know manual or auto what LOL. Anyway is something like this goood enough for me to get my feet wet or will I be sorry I bought one like this.
By the way I know nothing about how to operate one but figure I can learn from you tube.

 

[Big Harry]

The choice of meters depends on what you want it to do. Harbor Freight has a decent one for about 25 bucks that will do what you want but it is manual ranging. The more expensive meters will have the auto ranging feature if you don't want to keep turning a switch to change the meter range. The top line meters will come from companies like Fluke and Agilent and will have a much higher price tag on them.

 

[DOBIEGUY]

Forget that cheap crap. Buy a Fluke 73 series 3. Plenty on that big auction site, both new and used.
Buy it once and be done!

 

[ConradH]

I can't imagine using a meter without autoranging these days, but that's probably what you'll get for cheap. You don't need a lot of features. You don't need true RMS. You don't need capacitor measurement or transistor measurement. You DO need a good diode check function, usually a specific dial setting or range setting. You do need low voltage ranges- some of the HVAC target meters lack those. Go to eevblog.com and read the various threads on meters.
http://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/
https://www.toolnerds.com/multimeter/under-50/
http://www.multimeterguru.com/best-cheap-tools/

 

[c.coyle]

You can't go wrong with a Fluke. If you don't stick with the hobby, you will be able to sell it and recoup most of your investment. I am a happy 115 owner.

 

[ducati_EL34]

Or look for a used Simpson 260.

 

[DOBIEGUY]

Or look for a used Simpson 260.

WOW!
I remember learning how to use a Simpson 260 back in high school.
Graduating class of 1970.

 

[c.coyle]

WOW!
I remember learning how to use a Simpson 260 back in high school.
Graduating class of 1970.

Back when they had cycles, not Hertz!

 

[DOBIEGUY]

Back when they had cycles, not Hertz!

Back when you had to understand meter loading. Who today knows what ohms per volt means?

 

[wlgrant6]

I think Big Harry has the right idea with the Harbor Freight meter. I have several digital meters, including a fluke, but the Harbor Freight one seems to be the one I usually grab. With the 20% off coupons, it is very affordable for a beginner.

 

[jocko_nc]

I vote for the Harbor Freight as well. I bought one. Higher quality than I expected. I think it was about $50 and an excellent value. Harbor Freight tools have come a long way in quality. Lowes and Home Depot are easily twice the cost.

 

[avionic]

Whatever you finally decide on. Read the manual.
I´m a Fluke man myself. 77ii and 179.

 

[toxcrusadr]

This is a few years old now but has some good info:

http://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/mid-priced-digital-handheld-multimeters.436391/

I ended up buying an orange Tenma for about $69 or something, it's been a great meter for 5 years and going strong. I don't use it everyday, not even every week, so it's fine. Only complaint is the cap setting only goes to 20 uf which isn't enough for even big speaker caps, much less the stuff you see in amps and TVs today (100s and 1000s of uf). Kinda figured I'd end up with a good cap meter at some point anyway.

 

[c.coyle]

Back when you had to understand meter loading. Who today knows what ohms per volt means?

We are soooo old.

 

[lukiedog]

I have found even cheap meters to be accurate. The red HF model that is frequently given away for free (or $5) is very much right on with readings from my Fluke 77, but it takes a few more seconds for the reading to stabilize. Have had it for at least 5 years. I got it for working on the car where I might drop an engine on it or fall into the oil filler, but find myself going to it often (maybe because the 77 is up a flight of stairs in my "lab"). On a related subject, these new multi-testers are quite amazing for the money and fun to fool around with. Tremendous capability in such a small package.

 

[N8Nagel]

If you do buy a used Fluke or Simpson, CHECK THE FUSES. Both meters use sand filled fuses and they're there for a reason - they protect you if you do something stupid like test voltage while the meter is set on resistance or current. This is doubly important if you work on tube gear where voltages can be significantly higher than line. I don't know how many times I've bought a used meter and had to replace the fuses because someone shoved something in there that would fit after blowing the originals. Fortunately all of them worked afterwards.

Edit: well, one Simpson 260-8P had the sonalert blown right off the board, but after replacing it it seems that no other damage was done, so they are rugged little sumbishes. Traded that one to a friend for a busted Marantz 4270 and kept the other one I found at about the same time.

 

[N8Nagel]

I think Big Harry has the right idea with the Harbor Freight meter. I have several digital meters, including a fluke, but the Harbor Freight one seems to be the one I usually grab. With the 20% off coupons, it is very affordable for a beginner.

I would not, however, use it on tube gear, see my previous post. Usually the inexpensive meters do work and well, but only have AGC or similar fuses in them.

 

[SWL3600]

I don't know much about multimeters but I just bought a Fluke 15b for checking bias on my HH Scott 222c. Cost about 85 bucks.

Works just fine so far.

 

[NAD80]

Been using a Fluke 12 for years. Got it for free.

 

[avionic]

Been using Fluke and Tektronics since Christ was a Corporal... Well since 1978 anyway.