CA-1010: don't you hate when someone brings you a ...

[reydelaplaya]

I just wish someone in the past of this amp hadn't put their driver's license on the front panel.

I bought my CR-1020 from a govt auction over on eBay. On the otherwise flawless face, it has the entire purchase order number deeply engraved under the tone controls. LOL

It was very well maintained and sounds fantastic, so its 'flaw' is forgiven.

EDIT: its/it's (autocorrect)

 

[nerdorama]

I got the reed relay replaced tonight and have music in both channels. I found a relay on the big auction which with only some moderate bending of the pins went into the pcb ok. It's a Fujitsu FRL-648D12/2AS pcb type DPST relay. Each end of the coil has pins at both ends so the unused pins for this application can be trimmed. The pins on this relay are a bit farther apart than the original so some adjustment of the pins inward allows them to fit the pcb holes. I might buy a couple more for future Yamaha repairs as there is another one in this amp and apparently some in the C-4 preamp. Since I also have another CA-1010 it's probably a good idea to have several. Don't know if the CR-1000 and 1020 have them.
John

 

[Zombie]

I have 1010 with two dead channels before the power amp. Voltages OK. Maybe this is the solution that I suspected withot evidence.
Is this the relay on the preamp switch board? What is the part number on the schematic?

 

[nerdorama]

The relay I replaced is on the small board with the volume control. It is shown on the schematic at coordinate A6.5 and listed as 1S1885. There is another like it on the function board at coordinate D2. I think it is the same.

I was able to determine that I had audio coming to the volume control board, but not getting out of the relay on both channels. I clipped a jumper across the questionable relay contact and then had a good signal out of the preamp section. You can verify the preceeding sections of the preamp by looking for an audio signal at the wipers of the volume control upstream of the mute relay contacts.



Hope you find your problems.

 

[Zombie]

So basically I need to short either of the two middle pair of legs to check if the relay is dead?

 

[nerdorama]

The contacts on the original relay are not straight across the relay end-to-end. The coil is corner to corner in one direction and the contacts are angled across the pins. The relay has it's schematic on it's cover. If you have a meter, I would try to see if you have an AC reading at the wiper of the volume control with it turned to a mid or higher position.

 

[Zombie]

Yeah, I noticed that on the schematic later.
Managed to order two from the same source with discounted shipping.

 

[Zombie]

Hello again. Have I understood it correctly that the relay on the function board has its coil connected on the two outer pins in one direction and across the diode?

Like this from above pcb:
Reed left 1 NC
Reed left 2 to solder conn 2 on pcb
Reed left 3 to solder conn 3 on pcb
Reed left 4 NC
Reed right 1 to jumper right side / or diode upper leg
Reed right 2 to solder conn right 1 on pcb
Reed right 3 to solder conn right 2 on pcb
Reed right 4 to solder conn right 3 on pcb

The reed relay is a little tilted anti-clockwise

 

[nerdorama]

This FRL relay has the coil connected at both ends on the outer pins. I should have take a picture of my installation, but yes the diode is connected across the coil.

Since the original relay had the contact pins staggered this new relay must be angled slightly to get the contacts to the correct holes in the circuit board. Here's a layout of the volume control board from the service manual. You can see how the coil and contact pins are offset between each end. I tested the new relay and the coil seems to be non-polar. There are no polarity markings and it worked with either polarity for the DC coil voltage. I hope this is the information you need.

John

 

[nerdorama]

I think you will need one of the coil connections (1 & 4) at each end rather than both at one end.

 

[Zombie]

I was thinking about the relay on the function board.
That looks pretty straightforward, but as left-handed I sometimes get things the opposite way without thinking...
The volume pot board relay needs to bring its right pin 4 to the anode of the diode in some way. Still tinking about that one...
If it doesn't work I'll short the it and bugger all the switching noise...

 

[Zombie]

OK, I've had it with that piece of junk. And endless source of misery.
Thanks for the help here and in other threads.
Will rip out all the Elna Cerafines et al from it, and chuck the rest in a dumpster.
Will announce the availability of a full recap kit in the autumn...

 

[nerdorama]

Is this the relay you are replacing? It still looks to me as though the coil connections are at opposite corners and the contacts have staggered pin connections although the PC board traces don't show clearly on my copy of the service manual.

 

[Zombie]

Yes. And the cover of the old relay shows the coil connections on each opposite end

 

[Zombie]

Reed revisited. Have had no time to mess about with it. Looking for a simple solution. What wll happen if I just short the relay switches (relay removed)? A lot of switching thumps?

 

[nerdorama]

You can short the contacts and try it. I don't think you will hurt anything but, yes, you might get a thump in the speakers. Shorting the contacts was how I proved that my amp worked although I had already verified that the audio signal was reaching the input side of the relay.

 

[avionic]

Well to bad your in Sweden. I have a couple C-4 parts units.

 

[Zombie]

Well to bad your in Sweden. I have a couple C-4 parts units.

Thank you for thinking about me. If you care to drop them in a jiffy and send them to me I can send you a sum on Paypal or similar...
(And btw I am Swedish but currently live in Estonia, a neighbouring country and also in the EU)

 

[avionic]

I am Swedish but currently live in Estonia, a neighbouring country and also in the EU

Still across the pond.

 

[Zombie]

A big and deep pond it is