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Can Cap Replacement

Discussion in 'Fisher' started by Fairlane, Jul 7, 2018.

  1. Fairlane

    Fairlane AK Subscriber Subscriber

    Messages:
    1,768
    Location:
    West San Jose CA
    Just received me kit from Hayseed Hamfest and have a question in dealing with the twist lock legs
    on the original cans and the soldering done to lock them in place.

    I assume I need a flame thrower iron to melt that area and suck or wick it out. Job seems pretty straight forward except for this part. Any recommendations or tips would be greatly appreciated.

    Updated my 800C a few years ago and its still running the original cans but I figured it was time to update them as well so I bit the bullet and decided to do the job but admit it seems a little intimidating dealing with the soldered grounds.
     

     

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  2. asech

    asech AK Subscriber Subscriber

    Messages:
    308
    Location:
    Mission Viejo CA.
    A good old Weller soldering iron and the copper wick that Tom throws in the kit should do the trick...
     
  3. Fairlane

    Fairlane AK Subscriber Subscriber

    Messages:
    1,768
    Location:
    West San Jose CA
    Thanks for the reply.

    Like the trigger gun type we grew up with asech?
     
  4. larryderouin

    larryderouin Turn it UP, POP? PLLUUEEEZZZZZEE Subscriber

    Messages:
    21,892
    Location:
    Glen Burnie Md.
    You can use the gun for de-Soldering and soldering can caps. But don't use it for everyday use. Get a 45W Iron with an assrtment of tips available and use the big chisel tip for stuff like this and a smaller chisel tip (1/8 or so) for finer stuff.
     
  5. Dave451

    Dave451 AK Subscriber Subscriber

    Messages:
    1,176
    Location:
    Philly area
    I hate to admit it, but I wondered what that wick in the H-H kits was for, until now. Life is for learning, I guess!
     
  6. blhagstrom

    blhagstrom Mad Scientist, fixer. Subscriber

    Messages:
    12,867
    Location:
    Duvall, Washington
    It takes a big iron to do the chassis solder work.

    I found “Big Bertha”, a 100w Weller solder iron years ago in a yard sale. I don’t need her much but when I do, she always comes in handy.

    The gun type Weller will do but Bertha kicks them to the curb.
     

     

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  7. Fairlane

    Fairlane AK Subscriber Subscriber

    Messages:
    1,768
    Location:
    West San Jose CA
    Thanks for the advice guys. I have got a good soldering station for everything else.

    Knew though I would need something like a "Big Bertha" to do the Chasis. Will look around and see what I can source locally.

    Got the cardboard cap done last night but it had no chasis soldered lugs so it was easy.:thumbsup:
     
  8. Fairlane

    Fairlane AK Subscriber Subscriber

    Messages:
    1,768
    Location:
    West San Jose CA
    Thought I would update my post. Bought a Weller gun that operates at 140 or 100 watts that is controlled by a two stage trigger. Did the trick getting the solder hot enough and made short work soldering the new tabs to the chasis.

    Will say that this is not a job for the faint of heart and glad this will not have to be done again in my life time. :thumbsup:

    For the record testing the cans that came out were basically spot on and well with in 10% tolerance with the exception on the cardboard covered one which is supposed to be 200uf
    but it only measured 125. It sounded great before but sounds even better now I think. The slightest of hum I had at idle is now gone so this was worth the effort.

    Thanks for the iron advice everyone.
     
    AlTinkster92 likes this.

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