Canton Quinto 540

Hi James,

many thanks for the very informative reply.

Strassacker doesn't have Elko Mundorf unetched 18 ųF. Is it ok to use a MKP or MKT cap instead?

Are the MKP/MKT caps always better than Elkos? Or should I stick with the Elkos because that's what the the original are?

Regards,
Tony
 
Sure, you can use MKP or MKT for the 18µF. They are a good bit larger than elco's tho. Or you can use a 12µF elco with a 6.2µF film in parallel (or a 10µF+8.2µF). The slight extra 0.2µF will make no difference. I've done that and it works just fine.

Film caps offer more clarity and less ESR when used directly in the signal path (such as for the tweeter and upper end of the mid) but don't really bring anything extra when used in parallel (such as the lower end of the mid and for the woofer), other than lower ESR.

One advantage of film caps is that they will never drift or change in value like elcos slowly do.

Cheers,
James
 
Hi James,

I finished recapping and redoing binding posts for one Quinto 540 box last night. Your previous Quinto threads have been very helpful and saved me a lot of time/hassle. Thanks a lot.

I still cannot decide how to go with refinishing; ideally I would go with some compromise which is not very time-consuming. For example I would start with aceton, then some very light hand sanding. And apply it to the top sides only.

Regards,
Tony
 
Hi James,

so I have finished the second box as well. Now the only remaining task is refinishing.

Which color of Osmo Hardwax Oil would you recommend? It looks either Honig (3071) or Bernstein (3072) would be closest to the original?

Regards,
Tony
 
Hi James,

so I have finished the second box as well. Now the only remaining task is refinishing.

Which color of Osmo Hardwax Oil would you recommend? It looks either Honig (3071) or Bernstein (3072) would be closest to the original?

Regards,
Tony

I've been using 3032 Farblos Seidenmatt (colorless semi-gloss for English readers [heh, heh. I almost wrote "for English speakers", but that might get confusing in a speaker thread ;)]).
The results have actually been pretty much just like the original finish.

Cheers,
James
 
Hi James,

I have the same issue with my Quinto 540. Can you please give a hint how you applied the double-stick tape? Use very thin tape, cut into small pieces and apply a piece at each hole?

Regards,
Tony

Notice the woofer seal in the area that I've marked...

View attachment 1204144

...I've seen this on several Quintos now. It's doubtful of the woofer was ever completely sealed here because the seal was installed at the factory misaligned, you can see that from the imprint left from the woofer frame. I use double-stick tape to hold the seal in position when installing the woofer to get it correctly positioned for full contact all the way around.

One of my friends 530's was actually burping and farting through the open part of the seal when he turned the volume up until we got the seal correctly positioned. :eek:

Cheers,
James
 
Hey Tony, I just looked through all of my old photos and found that I didn't actually take a single shot of using the tape. But basically...

What I have is 1/2" wide, so 12.7mm, anything around 10-15mm wide will work. I just cut small strips ca 2cm long and laid them down on the woofer cutout on each side of each screw hole and every 4-5cm in between. Then I took the seal and starting with a section that way originally correctly installed over one of the screw holes (based the woofer frame impressions) and carefully placed it in the cutout. Then I worked it down in place around the ring. The areas of the seal that were deformed sometimes needed some extra pieces of tape to get it to hold in position long enough to get the entire ring where it was supposed to be.

It can be a bit frustrating because the double-stick that I have didn't stick to the wood real well and so it came loose a few times in spots and had to be re-worked. And of course trying to press the tape onto the wood with my fingertips was even more frustrating because it stuck to my fingers better than the wood. In the end I stuck the tape to the corner end of a small flat top screwdriver, laid it down, and used the tip a second small screwdriver to get it so stay in place. Heh heh, it takes some playing around but it just has to hold long enough to be able to drop the woofer in place.

Of course I had to do all of that before(!) soldering the wires to the woofer, because, yeah, doing it the other way around just doesn't work. :);) And I had to be real careful doing that and dripping the woofer carefully in place. And of course I did manage to dislodge the seal once when soldering the wires.

But in the end it worked. It sounds harder than it really was. I considered using some small drops of rubber cement to hold the seal in place but the double stick worked and I didn't really want to glue the seal down. I think that if you ever have to remove the seal later without destroying it that will be easier to do with the small pieces of tape than glue.

I have at times also just bought 2mm and 3mm thick closed cell foam from Modulor and cut new seals.
https://www.modulor.de/kunststoff/weichschaum/moosgummi-zellgummi/
Hint: if you do this using a color other than black helps. I know this because I first bought black and then realized that I only had a black Sharpie to mark the foam for cutting. :( Guess how well that worked. And a white ink marker was stupid expensive.

Cheers,
James
 
many thanks James for the excellent guide. I will try it out and post the result.

Regards,
Tony

Hey Tony, I just looked through all of my old photos and found that I didn't actually take a single shot of using the tape. But basically...

What I have is 1/2" wide, so 12.7mm, anything around 10-15mm wide will work. I just cut small strips ca 2cm long and laid them down on the woofer cutout on each side of each screw hole and every 4-5cm in between. Then I took the seal and starting with a section that way originally correctly installed over one of the screw holes (based the woofer frame impressions) and carefully placed it in the cutout. Then I worked it down in place around the ring. The areas of the seal that were deformed sometimes needed some extra pieces of tape to get it to hold in position long enough to get the entire ring where it was supposed to be.

It can be a bit frustrating because the double-stick that I have didn't stick to the wood real well and so it came loose a few times in spots and had to be re-worked. And of course trying to press the tape onto the wood with my fingertips was even more frustrating because it stuck to my fingers better than the wood. In the end I stuck the tape to the corner end of a small flat top screwdriver, laid it down, and used the tip a second small screwdriver to get it so stay in place. Heh heh, it takes some playing around but it just has to hold long enough to be able to drop the woofer in place.

Of course I had to do all of that before(!) soldering the wires to the woofer, because, yeah, doing it the other way around just doesn't work. :);) And I had to be real careful doing that and dripping the woofer carefully in place. And of course I did manage to dislodge the seal once when soldering the wires.

But in the end it worked. It sounds harder than it really was. I considered using some small drops of rubber cement to hold the seal in place but the double stick worked and I didn't really want to glue the seal down. I think that if you ever have to remove the seal later without destroying it that will be easier to do with the small pieces of tape than glue.

I have at times also just bought 2mm and 3mm thick closed cell foam from Modulor and cut new seals.
https://www.modulor.de/kunststoff/weichschaum/moosgummi-zellgummi/
Hint: if you do this using a color other than black helps. I know this because I first bought black and then realized that I only had a black Sharpie to mark the foam for cutting. :( Guess how well that worked. And a white ink marker was stupid expensive.

Cheers,
James
 
Well, if the seals are still servicable, not torn etc I've been re-using them with no problems. I only cut new ones when I have to. I suppose go with whichever is easier for you.

When I do cut new ones I just use a couple of small cable ties to fix a marker pen to my compass, measure, mark and then hand cut with an X-acto knife. I also have a pair of very sharp short blade curved surgical scissors and they work pretty good, but my experience is that trying to cut the foam with the average scissors is a pita.. To mark the mounting holes I lay the seal in place and carefully shove a round toothpick through each hole from the top. Then I use the marker pen to push the toothpick the rest of the way through the hole leaving a nice mark where the hole is. A 4mm hole stamper and hammer comes next and you are done.

Cheers,
James
 
Nice work. Will be well worth effort. I enjoy my Karats every day.
 
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update: last night I put the boxes together.

I got it wrong 2x:
- left 1 fiber filling pad out of 1st box, recognised after having closed everything (ouch!)
- crossover mounted on the wrong side in 2nd box, also recognised after having closed everything (ouch!)

There was also some fighting with putting the drivers back; as @Bratwurst7s pointed out, it's not that easy to get the seal for the woofer in the correct place. It was also tricky to put the heavy woofer in place without moving the seal. In the end this method worked for me: use some string to lift the woofer in balance, use a small screwdriver to guide the woofer to the correct position before putting it down, then cut and pull the string out.



IMG_1096.jpg IMG_1097.jpg
 
Don't you just love it when a plan comes together ! Great job on these speakers.

thanks for the nice comment. Actually I have difficulty to find time for this hobby, but last night I could not wait anymore and found an excuse: I was working hard for the whole day, even did some sport in the evening and hence can afford myself to tinker with my Quinto boxes a bit before going to bed. Ended up going to bed at 00:30 am.
 
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I'd like to update the progress with some more photos. One box looks slightly darker than the other, but I am ok with it. I don't expect too much from my first restoration project.

I tested the speakers with my current amp Technics SU-V6X. They sound better than my previous speakers (Magnat Vector 55), however I noticed in the threads by @Bratwurst7s that a powerful amp is required to drive those Quintos. So I was keeping my eye on it and it just happened that I got a Yamaha AX 1050 last week in relatively good condition. I don't have the time to recap, so just did what I could for now: dry cleaning and deoxit.

The amp makes a big difference indeed. Very clear and warm sound at low/mid volume listening. Maybe I will recap the amp when I have time in the future, but for now I am quite happy with this combo already.

Needless to say, I have been copying very much what @Bratwurst7s did to his Quintos (and the choice of Yamaha AX amp to drive them). Sincerely thanks for your help and sharing your experience.

Regards,
Tony
 
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