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Capacitor recipe

Discussion in 'Yamaha' started by Hebridean, Nov 26, 2018.

  1. Hebridean

    Hebridean New Member

    Messages:
    28
    Location:
    Isle of Lewis, Scotland
    I’m going to open up my cr1000 for its first exposing at the weekend. I intend giving it a good cleaning switch/slider deoxiting and a general inspection.
    It’s running fine, but don’t doubt that some or all of the capacitors will be tired and need replacing. Having limited experience (restored a turntable) of such things is there any guide books or net links that can be recommended and is there anyone selling the complete capacitor upgrade kit. I’ve read so many opinions regarding different manufacturers with some being preferred for certain aspects of the circuitry which is confusing, and the same manufacturer but different types etc.
    Is there a tried and tested formula for this receiver out there?
     

     

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  2. mbz

    mbz Super Member

    Messages:
    2,269
    Location:
    Melbourne, Victoria
    I would stay away from those cap kits availble on-line.
    Capacitor selection is still hotly debated but most agree on the general formula of buying quality components from a
    reliable source.

    I haven't worked on a CR-1000 so will wait on others to comment.

    Suggest doing the work in stages eg,
    - Power supply/protection circuit
    - power amps
    - tone board(?)
    - filter board(?)
    - function board(?)
    - tuner???

    Download the service manual, hifiengine probably has it, need to register, it's safe/no spam...
     
  3. mbz

    mbz Super Member

    Messages:
    2,269
    Location:
    Melbourne, Victoria
    In addition to replacing caps there are some extra tasks that should be performed,
    - check all fusible resistors are in spec. They have a history of drifting very high
    - replace known problematic transistors 2SC458LG with KSC1845(?)
     
  4. sssboa

    sssboa Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    693
    I restored 3 of them.

    I wouldn't buy an upgrade kit. It's all cheap audio capacitors.

    You should replace the main filter capacitors 10000uf/63v. They have 40mm diameter. They will now measure 6500uf at best.

    Then on preamp small bead tantalum capacitors 1uf/ 2.2uf /3.3uf should be best replaced with film/polyester. Don't use aluminum, why downgrade? If you don't replace the tantalum you will never know if crackling is caused by them or dirty volume pot.

    Actually cr1000 is easy to do. Good for the 1st project.

    My subjective advice on caps. Use general purpose capacitors. They're quality. With exception of large bipolar capacitors and main filter capacitors where audio caps will do.

    Nichicon PW/PM/HW/PX
    Panasonic FR/FM
    Chemi-Con KZN/KZE/KYB/KZH/KY

    Geeks/audiophiles claim that Panasonic FM sound as good as audio caps. To me it's BS to be honest but could give you a feeling of cheating the system.

    As seen in my pics I used some giant high voltage panasonic film caps on power for 10uf and 4.7uf also for 1uf BP.

    On tone and phono polyester Wima and Epcos.

    1000.power2.jpg 1000.power.jpg 1000.tone.jpg 1000.phono.jpg
     
    Last edited: Dec 1, 2018
    zaibatsu, amr2 and mbz like this.
  5. amr2

    amr2 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    548
    Nichicon HE is also a good choice
     
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  6. sssboa

    sssboa Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    693
    List of original caps. Where I put * it means the original voltage could be less like 10v or 6.3v but wanted to be safe so quoted as 16v. Added some series recommendation for replacement.

    Filter caps
    10000uf 63v x2 40mm dia

    power board
    220uf 80v x4 hw 100v
    470uf 25v x2 fr 35v
    220uf 25v x3 fr 35v
    47uf 16v x2 fr 25v
    33uf 16v fm 35v
    10uf 35v px 35v
    4.7uf 63v pm 63v
    10uf 63v pm 63v
    1uf 50v film
    100uf 6.3v BP audio 25v
    1uf 50v BP film

    main amp x2
    47uf 50v BP
    2.2uf 25v BP
    220uf 35v

    tone
    100uf 16v x2 *10v fm 25v
    10uf 25v x2 pw 35v
    33uf 16v x2 tantalum *10v I used new tantalum 33uf/16v Kemet or 33uf/35v nos Sprang from ebay.
    3.3uf 16v x2 tantalum Wima
    1uf 35v x 2 tantalum Wima

    filter
    47uf 25v x2
    10uf 35v x4
    2.2uf x2 tantalum
    1uf x2 tantalum

    EQ
    33uf 16v x2 fm 35v
    4.7uf 50v x4 tantalum Epcos
    1uf 25v x 2 tantalum
    1uf 35v x2 tantalum
    47uf 25v

    MIC

    1uf x3 tantalum
    100uf 16v *6.3v
    4.7uf 25v
     
    Last edited: Nov 27, 2018
    mbz likes this.

     

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  7. sssboa

    sssboa Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    693
    Also sooner or later you will have to clean the relay.
    If you want to replace instead the new is
    Panasonic
    HC2-HP-DC12V-F
     
  8. Hebridean

    Hebridean New Member

    Messages:
    28
    Location:
    Isle of Lewis, Scotland
    Man, that’s fantastic response from you good people and I thank you all for your knowledgeable advice. I feel a lot better about starting the task now.
    I’ve noticed that there’s various connections available on the capacitors snap fit etc. Am I right in thinking that the ones I need are the bend over and solder onto the circuit board type. I’m away from home at the moment and would like to get an order in so it’s there when I return.
    Further down the line I’ve been reading about adjusting aspects such as bias. Are specific meters needed to tune up the unit?
     
  9. sssboa

    sssboa Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    693
    You're welcome
    You need through hole capacitors generally.
    Exception are the main filter capacitors which may be any really but for soldering lugs are easier. In my picture you can see snap in terminations to which I managed to solder wires but it's much easier with lugs. But with lugs there are only one series of Nichicon audio caps LKG which are good and available at 40mm dia.
    https://www.mouser.co.uk/ProductDetail/Nichicon/LKG1J103MKN?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtZ1n0r9vR22SV4CH/%2butB%2b4484C8SjOZdfilJ3PGj9AA==
    or higher voltage for longer life span
    https://www.mouser.co.uk/ProductDet...r9vR22SV4CH/%2butB%2bu87DjaELcNUwtD/H3M/0BQ==
    Also these Kemets have lugs but are 35mm dia. so you would have to wrap them in something.
    https://www.digikey.co.uk/product-detail/en/kemet/ALT22A103CD063/399-11422-ND/4833253

    1000.power2ee.jpg
     
    Last edited: Nov 27, 2018
  10. avionic

    avionic " Black Knights " Subscriber

    Messages:
    44,613
    Location:
    Fort Dodge, Iowa
    Don't forget new adjustment trimmers...
     
  11. Hebridean

    Hebridean New Member

    Messages:
    28
    Location:
    Isle of Lewis, Scotland
    Once again many thanks for the additional info, and with help of sssboa's list I've managed to place an order with Mouser to get me started when I get home.
     

     

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  12. Hebridean

    Hebridean New Member

    Messages:
    28
    Location:
    Isle of Lewis, Scotland
    IMG_0348.jpg Well i'm home and opened up the unit yesterday. Having had a good look around i was amazed at the lack of wear/sign of use and i gave it a bit of a vacuuming and blowing with a deoxiting later.

    The quandray i now have is that it's presently playing well with no faults at all, and to me all looks to be very good so should i proceed with the recapping. All the parts from Mouser are here for the power board. [​IMG]
     
  13. sssboa

    sssboa Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    693
    Do you have a desoldering gun?
    The 2 big filter capacitors are most likely around 6500uf now. The 1uf cap on the far right will have very high esr. The rest may be ok. The 4 220uf 80v are next suspect. Sooner or later you will have to replace or clean the relay.
     
  14. Hebridean

    Hebridean New Member

    Messages:
    28
    Location:
    Isle of Lewis, Scotland
    No unfortunately i don't have a desoldering gun, but i think i'm going to need one. Aye, i'd may as well go ahead since i've got it exposed and do as you've pointed out, also try and get my hands on a gun locally. Many thanks.
     

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