Champagne Jam
- Thread starter rallison
- Start date
rallison
Not Yet Deaf
All done!
I am generally happy with how it turned out; I hadn't worked on anything this size, nor worked with paper-backed veneer before. But it looks more or less exactly as planned, and sounds better than I'd hoped. Now I need to rearrange the basement to make room for proper placement/separation...
Thanks everyone for the kind words & suggestions!
I am generally happy with how it turned out; I hadn't worked on anything this size, nor worked with paper-backed veneer before. But it looks more or less exactly as planned, and sounds better than I'd hoped. Now I need to rearrange the basement to make room for proper placement/separation...
Thanks everyone for the kind words & suggestions!
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Nice! Love those big power meters and level meters on the amp and tape deck respectively. My dad's A-6 amp and CT-5 had different kinds of LEDs, the amp had white looking ones like yours, but the tape deck had green and red LEDs. I know they light up green and red, I'm referring to when they are off.
rallison
Not Yet Deaf
Thanks, Leesonic; yeah, it's something when the CT-9R, A-9, and the RG-9/SR-9 are all pumping away. Here's a low-light cell-phone pic, but I'll have to get video up this coming weekend for the full effect...
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gladiator335
MRTI
Very nice! I had A-8 and it was a very good amp. And great job on a cabinet too!
rallison
Not Yet Deaf
Looks really good! :yes:
Almost like that cabinet was built just for that system.
Wait a minute...
Scott
Thanks, Scott! Hmmm... maybe I'll tell people I designed a cabinet to match the speakers and then found components to fit the cabinet... :scratch2:
And thank you, Gladiator! I had the SX-8 receiver (until I stumbled across the A-9) and very much enjoyed it.
Like I said in the first post, I know lots of folks detest this vintage (and anything later) from Pioneer, but it suits me and my listening needs, and will do until I hit the lottery...
aldena007
Legacy Audio Aficionado
I have essentally the same system but utilizing the SX-9 Reciever. The CT-9R Cassette deck is really a great deck. I have several that I have rebuilt the transport and the decks are really great performers. The plastic is fragile, but I think the whole genre is outstanding. I have a great A-9, but could never really snag a good F-9 so I went with the reciever approach. Your setup is great and the performance of the system is also outstanding.
rallison
Not Yet Deaf
Glad to find other Champagne fans in this neck of the woods! Do you have pics of your set anywhere on AK?
My CT-9R is the weak point right now; I opened her up, found a dead, wadded-up belt, replaced it and hoped to find a smooth operator. But I'm guessing a previous owner let it run with the belt jam, as it sounds like one of the the wheels or motors has a bad bearing or something out of balance. I will have to tear down the transport to isolate & fix the problem before I can call this unit good. Might PM you for guidance, given your experience--if you wouldn't mind. Or should we start a CT-9R teardown/rebuild thread?
I got the F-9 only because the guy who bought my SX-8 (after I got the A-9) gave up on waiting for an A-9; so he sold me his F-9 in return. So I plain lucked out.
Anyway, I hear nothing but good things about the sound of the CT-9R and am eager to get it up to par. Everything else in the rack just sings. My Father-in-Law is a big band fan, and I put on some Glenn Miller for him--he had me turn it way up and was blown away by the sound.
rallison
Not Yet Deaf
DC, sorry to hear yours remains in pieces. As my note above indicates, I'm going to have to do more work on mine. Why is yours apart?
I wouldn't call the belt change easy, but I'm not a technician and was able to get it done with a bit of patience (and careful photography to aid re-assembly). Maybe my low self-expectations helped. :scratch2:
Consider having another go at yours. It might motivate you, me and aldeena007 to collaborate on a how-to thread, as mentioned above.
Catswold
It's psy-cat-delic!
Super system! The A-9 is as good as any of the top of the line Pioneer integrateds of the 80's and 90's . . . comparable to the A-80 and the A-88x. Consider it "pre-Elite"-Elite; very low noise floor, high power, great dynamic response (usually about double the rated rms power). Absolutely nothing to apologize for . . . I'm as green as those power meters with envy.
I have always like the communications series with all the high-tech gee-gaws and graphics . . . just the thing for playing ELO Out of the Blue and pretending your on the space ship.
I have an A-88x and love it, but I am always on the look-out for a good A-9 at a reasonable price.
Congratulations!!!!!:tresbon:
I have always like the communications series with all the high-tech gee-gaws and graphics . . . just the thing for playing ELO Out of the Blue and pretending your on the space ship.
I have an A-88x and love it, but I am always on the look-out for a good A-9 at a reasonable price.
Congratulations!!!!!:tresbon:
rallison
Not Yet Deaf
Catswold, thanks for the kind words!
As I spend more time with the A-9 and associated components I grow happier and happier with them. I'm still 'exploring' the capabilities, from running flat, clean, and unobstructed to sculpting the sound to suit the source, room, and listening level. :huge:
When I set the system up I put together a set of some of the top (at least in my book) tunes of the '81-82 era, and ELO is absolutely on the list. :thmbsp:
As an interplanetary craft, I find it can also run on Boston, Klaatu, Tomita... :nutz:
As I spend more time with the A-9 and associated components I grow happier and happier with them. I'm still 'exploring' the capabilities, from running flat, clean, and unobstructed to sculpting the sound to suit the source, room, and listening level. :huge:
When I set the system up I put together a set of some of the top (at least in my book) tunes of the '81-82 era, and ELO is absolutely on the list. :thmbsp:
As an interplanetary craft, I find it can also run on Boston, Klaatu, Tomita... :nutz:
CrazyTrain
Member
Nice setup!
Hope you don't mind a few questions re: cabinet
Did you incorporate ability to access rear of components with the cabinet? Do any of the shelves slide out?
Is it on wheels?
Curious as I'm kicking around ideas for my own system rack.
Again, nice setup!!
Hope you don't mind a few questions re: cabinet
Did you incorporate ability to access rear of components with the cabinet? Do any of the shelves slide out?
Is it on wheels?
Curious as I'm kicking around ideas for my own system rack.
Again, nice setup!!
flpioneernut
New Member
That's a nice set-up you have. As a fellow Communication Series fan, I understand your obsession. And, like you stated, it's a bonus this series got the bad rap, because they were available for next to nothing.
However, there are a few issues that I have discovered, mostly with the cassette decks, but they have been minor. I believe heat build-up is the root cause of the majority of the failures, which, in my opinion, is caused by the use of plastics, which of course, doesn't dissapate the heat. If you can find a way to keep your deck cool during its use, i.e., the use of a fan, it will last a lot longer between failures, if it experiences any. Also, if you let these autoreverse decks sit for an extended period of time without use, the rotating head can become stuck, due to dirt, getting down in the rotating head, or dried grease. That can be cured easily with alcohol, a syringe needle, and some patience. Drive belt change on these units is among the easiest I have encountered, so the complaint about that befuddles me.
At any rate, outside of the great performance for the low price, the looks of this series appeals to me. Have fun with your system, and if you take a few precautions, and grab some extra components for future spares, you'll be a happy listener for a long time.
However, there are a few issues that I have discovered, mostly with the cassette decks, but they have been minor. I believe heat build-up is the root cause of the majority of the failures, which, in my opinion, is caused by the use of plastics, which of course, doesn't dissapate the heat. If you can find a way to keep your deck cool during its use, i.e., the use of a fan, it will last a lot longer between failures, if it experiences any. Also, if you let these autoreverse decks sit for an extended period of time without use, the rotating head can become stuck, due to dirt, getting down in the rotating head, or dried grease. That can be cured easily with alcohol, a syringe needle, and some patience. Drive belt change on these units is among the easiest I have encountered, so the complaint about that befuddles me.
At any rate, outside of the great performance for the low price, the looks of this series appeals to me. Have fun with your system, and if you take a few precautions, and grab some extra components for future spares, you'll be a happy listener for a long time.
DCinDC
I'm here to fix it
So tell me how on a CT-9R. Admittedly I diassy'd it years ago, without a manual, but I am very handy and usually see how things are supposed to come apart. I've got the boards flipped out and everything. If someone could verbally say what they did, maybe it would help. I'll take pics if need be. Those are GOOD decks and should be back in operation.
rallison
Not Yet Deaf
Thanks, CrazyTrain!
The back of the cabinet is wide open except for the turntable section at the top.
I thought about slide-out shelves, but the weight of the amp worried me, and my skills (and funds) are limited, so I stuck with fixed shelves.
Because the back is open and the unit has to sit at least 5 inches from the wall (to provide clearance for the lid in the open position), I can get to the back of the components that way. Do-able, if not convenient.
I considered putting it on rollers/wheels, but decided against for the sake of stability, appearance and simplicity. Sure would make moving it easier though; as it is I have to unload the components to relocate the cabinet.
If I had had more money and patience, I the one thing I might do differently is to put the cabinet section (above the pedestal) on a 'lazy susan' mount, so it would swivel on the pedestal for access.
On the whole I'm happy with simple... thanks again for the kind word!
rallison
Not Yet Deaf
Thanks! Yeah, the CT-9R has a reputation, no matter whether it's heat-death or complexity or disuse that eventually causes issues. I've been too busy listening to the system to tackle a full tear-down and cleaning of the deck, but it's on the to-do list. I appreciate the remarks, flpioneernut!
.
rallison
Not Yet Deaf
DCinDC, how much detail are you looking for? I can give you a general idea based on what I did when I replaced the belt several weeks back, and even toss in a picture or two. But if you need detailed step-by-step, I'll have to take accurate notes when I do get the time to do my tear-down.
Let me know--either way I'm happy to share what little I know/can do.
aldena007
Legacy Audio Aficionado
rallison:
My apologies for not answering your questions on the CT-9R. Had to finish rennovating a bathroom. The CT-9R and it's siblings were a great effort on Pioneer's part to build a cutting edge cassette deck. I think that the issues with the decks is primarily with the tape transport which was really advanced. I have rebuilt several and I think they are really ingenious in their design. OK, to fully evaluate your deck you will have to get that transport running, but right now it would be a legnthy dialogue. PM me for some detail.
Pioneer made a brave effort to make the CT-xR line a success but I think that production deadlines forced the decks out the factory before all the bugs were worked out. If you take the top off of the deck you should see stamped right on top of the transport identifying codes.
RYM-112===>This is the early release and the oldest
RYM-132===>This is the followon transport and the most numerous, but faulty
RYM-154===>This is the "improved" transport that was released to fix the prior units.
RXX-460===>This is the "improved" transport that was shipped w/o heads.
In all honesty I don't know what they were trying to fix. As mentioned before by flpioneernut the head rotation seems to be the most common problem today. The heads are mounted on a cylindrical base that rotates when the tape reverses. The outer wall of the cylinder was originally coated with teflon and the service manual cautions against using lubercants. If you pull the heads you are more than likely going to see a lot of that teflon gone exposing bare metal (a pot metal type alloy). When left setting in a humid environment the pot metal will oxidize and the head will really get stuck in the mount. When that happens your transport is totally disfunctional. If the teflon is worn away the head assembly can be throughly cleaned and then I have used a high grade oil (I use TEAC capstan Motor Oil) to make it work. If you go this route, the cleaning and reoiling becomes a routine maintenance job. Anyway, I don't want to go on and on here, but I just wanted to make the point that the to evaluate your unit you need to ID the transport.
I will wrap this up with some of the strong points of the design.
True dual capstan design
Three direct drive motors - no idlers, clutches, pullys, etc., but contributes to the aforementioned heat issues.
Direct Drive Capstan motor is extremely accurate
The system uses an optical detector for the tape ends minimizing wear and tear during FF/RW.
Feel free to PM me any questions.
My apologies for not answering your questions on the CT-9R. Had to finish rennovating a bathroom. The CT-9R and it's siblings were a great effort on Pioneer's part to build a cutting edge cassette deck. I think that the issues with the decks is primarily with the tape transport which was really advanced. I have rebuilt several and I think they are really ingenious in their design. OK, to fully evaluate your deck you will have to get that transport running, but right now it would be a legnthy dialogue. PM me for some detail.
Pioneer made a brave effort to make the CT-xR line a success but I think that production deadlines forced the decks out the factory before all the bugs were worked out. If you take the top off of the deck you should see stamped right on top of the transport identifying codes.
RYM-112===>This is the early release and the oldest
RYM-132===>This is the followon transport and the most numerous, but faulty
RYM-154===>This is the "improved" transport that was released to fix the prior units.
RXX-460===>This is the "improved" transport that was shipped w/o heads.
In all honesty I don't know what they were trying to fix. As mentioned before by flpioneernut the head rotation seems to be the most common problem today. The heads are mounted on a cylindrical base that rotates when the tape reverses. The outer wall of the cylinder was originally coated with teflon and the service manual cautions against using lubercants. If you pull the heads you are more than likely going to see a lot of that teflon gone exposing bare metal (a pot metal type alloy). When left setting in a humid environment the pot metal will oxidize and the head will really get stuck in the mount. When that happens your transport is totally disfunctional. If the teflon is worn away the head assembly can be throughly cleaned and then I have used a high grade oil (I use TEAC capstan Motor Oil) to make it work. If you go this route, the cleaning and reoiling becomes a routine maintenance job. Anyway, I don't want to go on and on here, but I just wanted to make the point that the to evaluate your unit you need to ID the transport.
I will wrap this up with some of the strong points of the design.
True dual capstan design
Three direct drive motors - no idlers, clutches, pullys, etc., but contributes to the aforementioned heat issues.
Direct Drive Capstan motor is extremely accurate
The system uses an optical detector for the tape ends minimizing wear and tear during FF/RW.
Feel free to PM me any questions.
