Changing componet to 110 ?

7.62

Infinity nutcase.
I have a shanling CD player I really like. I don't like the transformer/adapter deal I have to use because everything is loose when plugged into wall or conditioner unit. What's needed to make it a straight plug into the wall 110v ?

Is it something I can do DIY style at home with some reasonable skill ?

TIA.
 
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Here is the setup, what I'm asking is if that yellow deal can be replaced. with something that could go inside the CD player accomplishing the same thing then I could run just a standard power cord from he CD player to outlet ?

I haven't looked inside the shanling yet, getting a feel for if it can be done. the 3 prong to two prong adapter is a really funky connect no matter what i do.
 
Why don't you plug the CD player directly to the wall? What's the voltage rating of the CD player and what's the voltage of your main AC line?

I don't understand the function of the yellow transformer. It says "input 110V AC 220V AC" and output "110V AC 220V AC". Looks like a step down or step up transformer, but if the unit is 110V and your main voltage is 110V, you don't need it.
 
Bobby (store owner) told me to NOT plug the cd player in without the yellow transformer. it won't work without it and could damage the unit. I guess I should have a closer look. My AC line is like any other home.
 
Well, that's a 120v cord on the CD player, and that's a 120v to 240v transformer. I'm guessing the transformer is stepping 120v up to 240. That is an awful setup. What does the back of the CD player say for input voltage? If it says something like 90-250v you'd be fine just plugging it in. I'm guessing the power cord just plugs into the back like a computer power supply? A lot of new stuff just ships with a different cord, and uses switching supplies that will accept 90-250v depending where you are. If it says 240v only, there still might be a possibility it can be modified internally.
 
Yeah, check the back of the CD player for the voltage requirements.

Looks like that yellow converter detects 120V vs. 240V and converts to the other one automatically? Or something.

Some components have a switch inside for selectable input voltage, but one would think your technician guy would have checked your player for that. Beyond that it would require changing the unit's power transformer, and it's probably circuit board mounted, so that could be rather involved.

Assuming it is a 240V unit and you need an adaptor, you can get a nicer one than this. Maybe something that sits on its own feet rather than hanging off the power source like that.

https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_ss_c_1_12?url=search-alias=aps&field-keywords=120v+to+240v+converter&sprefix=120V+to+240V,aps,201&crid=2V60O9NGB7AFJ
 
Found a pic of the guts, no switching supply, and transformer only has 2 wires on the primary. It's 240v only. I did see another transformer used in this model that was potted in a square box. That one might have a 120v tap. It's worth popping the top and having a look.

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I had to step out for a few, when I get back I'll open it up and we'll see.

One question, if I try to just go for it straight from the wall am I risking damage. I know it's not a high dollar unit but I sure do like how it sounds.
 
I had to step out for a few, when I get back I'll open it up and we'll see.

One question, if I try to just go for it straight from the wall am I risking damage. I know it's not a high dollar unit but I sure do like how it sounds.

It might hurt it, I know it won't work. It needs 240v, not 120v.

If the transformer can't be rewired, I'd take that yellow box apart, and set it up in a metal enclosure. Use a computer supply cord, and permanently wire it.
 
Definitely don't plug it into 120V until you 1) look at the back for its requirements (probably moot or your technician guy would not have said to use an adaptor) and 2) open it up as suggested. If the transformer has multiple inputs as posted above, it can be hard-wired for 120V input.

If not, it may be more trouble to build a box with an outlet around that adaptor than to just buy a freestanding one, there were some nice ones on Amazon for $30 in my link above.
 
yikes. the basic problem is that this fix mucks with the outside AC differences.
take picture of back panel to confirm/deny/eliminate the unit being a universal
AC input unit. if it only says 240v then you can continue with the AC converter
or go inside and find out what is needed

open it up. take close up picture. post here.

trace the wires - look for the wires that go to the circuit board and the drive. worst case
is 12v (drive), 5v to the PCB. note drives units are single rails, electronics can
be dual rail.

simple matter to find an AC to DC unit to use AC input and convert to the necessary
one or two rail voltages. seem to have enough space inside to hold a new PS.

alternatively, if its one or to single rail voltages, then a cheap and easy way to
do this to mount wall marts inside.

or maybe your unit has a multi-voltage transformer then it's a matter of jumpers.
 
Jeez, it was hot yesterday. Bout all I could do was take a cool shower and lay down when I got in. Here's more pics.
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I'm still having coffee on the porch but quick thinking,

Maybe I could gut the yellow thing, remove the plate thing on the left and put yellow guts in its place ?
 
I'm wondering what that board is on the left that is located between the main power input and the primary. That seems odd to me. Two caps and a small transformer. A little more going on there than the power switch. I wonder what the red/blue wires measure that go into the primary. (Only if you are knowledgeable about safety measuring line level AC). What does the various writing on that board say? The actual power rectification, regulation and filtering is on the main board I assume.
 
Yeah I'm not much n the knowledge, just kinda figured maybe I could cypher it out. Probably over my head, is over what I can do. Any recommendations on where to send it, anyone do this type of conversion?

I don't mind putting a few bucks into it, it sounds great and is totally reliable.

Edited to add Thank You for the separate box idea, it's probably better but I was just hoping to minimize the points of contact.
 
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