Cleaning rotary wafer switches

[7chord]

The Mono/Stereo mode selector is gummed up pretty badly on this X-101-B. I've been hitting it with solvent and gently working it free over the last few days. It's turning now, but still pretty stiff. Getting there! The old grease is slowly giving way...

That old grease dang near turns to cement over time. Back in the day we used to get good money for cleaning / re-lubing old turntables that had come to a halt due to concretion of their lube...

I had to resort to pin point application of lighter fluid to break it free. I use a small pick to touch the area I want to apply it, and carefully dribble the fluid down the tool to reach the exact area.

What's your favorite trick for cleaning / freeing rotary wafer switches?

 

[Tom B]

Rotary wafer switches usually sieze or tighten at the shaft not necessarily at the wafer switch. I use multiple applications of very light penetrating oil like a wd40, chem oil, or similar spray product. I usually invert the unit so the switch is pointing upward, and try very slowly applying the oil where the shaft comes out of its housing, while turning the switch back and forth. If the assembly allows for access to the inside of the switch where the shaft meets with the housing, its good to get some oil there, but be very careful to not get these penetrating oils on the contacts, sircuit boards, or plastic of any typr, as it can ruin things.

 

[7chord]

Yep, definitely at the shaft is where they seize. That's why I concentrate on getting the lighter fluid to wick into the space between the shaft and the collar.

 

[larryderouin]

PB BLASTER or Liquid Wrench would be a better alternative to lighter fluid or WD40. They are designed and engineered as penetrant/lubricants and work a lot better and faster. Do the same thing. Use a pick and drizzle it down into the shaft. Wait an hour, lightly tapping at intervals, and it should break loose. If it doesn't, use a hair drier or paint remover heat gun and warm up the outer housing to get it to expand.

 

[thomo57]

Larryderouin
I had the same problem a few weeks ago.
Take the cover off and get a hair dryer or heat gun and aim it into the back of it for a couple of minutes jiggling it as you go
Mine was bound up for a few weeks and l tried all sorts of suggestions including heating the shaft with an iron, wd40 etc etc which may have also helped in the end.

 

[7chord]

I always just take my time with stuff like that. It didn't get stuck in 5 minutes, and it's not going to get unstuck in 5 minutes... But I'm loathe to use PBlaster or WD40 on stuff like pots... Lighter fluid has always worked for me, just takes however long it takes. But seems like we all have basically the same approach. One other thing I do is to remove the original knob, and put on the largest one I have in the shop that fits. This gives additional torque AND saves the original knob from damage.

Speaking of original knobs, is there a preferred vendor of replacement matching knobs, or just hit the usual auction sites?

 

[7chord]

So, after the chassis sat for a while, the control bound up again. So I took a cue from Larry and applied a very small amount of PBlaster. Just enough to wick up between the shaft and the collar. And applied a small amount of heat. It's free again, but guess we'll see how long...

 

[larryderouin]

Got any turbine oil (zoom or similar). One or two drops down the shaft after getting it free will help it. After it gets in there work it back and forth. If needed take the switch out and take it apart at the bushing for the mount.