Connectivity: USB DAC vs. network connection (wifi or ethernet)

I missed this.

Is the quality of those sources really worth anything more than the audio output of your MacBook?

If they are lossy compression formats, I'd suggest that will dominate over any quality issues in the headphone output.

Spotify Premium OGG@320kbps or AAC@256kbps is very good. It pays to clean up the chain.


I am using Spotify premium at highest settings.
 
Another option I hadn't considered was buying a inexpensive used laptop to use as an optical output. The Dell 502X is among the few that have optical output, I'm sure there are others. One of the receivers I'm looking at is a used Harmon Kardon 3490 that should have a pretty good DAC chip.
 
Interesting, thanks for sharing. I was not aware of this. Does that mean the headphone jack can function as an optical out?

That's exactly what it means, You can pick a very nice used early receiver for cheap and connect it with a mini-Toslink cable directly to your Macbook, if it does in fact have the combo jack. No USB or network needed. That said, for kitchen and claimed material, unless you also need FM radio, I'd probably consider a new DAC/Class-D amp combo from SMSL or Topping with a USB input.
 
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Another option I hadn't considered was buying a inexpensive used laptop to use as an optical output. The Dell 502X is among the few that have optical output, I'm sure there are others. One of the receivers I'm looking at is a used Harmon Kardon 3490 that should have a pretty good DAC chip.

I have a Lenovo Y50 that has optical out as well but find the USB out to the Xmos chip in the Topping D30 to be a little bit more pleasant.

That's exactly what it means, You can pick a very nice used early receiver for cheap and connect it with a mini-Toslink cable directly to your Macbook, if it does in fact have the combo jack. No USB needed. That said, for kitchen and claimed material, unless you also need FM radio, I'd probably consider a new DAC/Class-D amp combo from SMSL or Topping with a USB input.

+1

Eric
 
USB has less noise than optical, period. Archimago has shown that over and over. Also Optical has timing issues. All the issues people talk about, with USB, was before asynchronous output was used.

Receivers usually have DSP before the DAC chip that alleviates some of the optical jitter concerns, but it probably differs from model to model so hard to know unless you can find a definitive statement about a particular receiver somewhere.
 
Almost seems to good to be true but the receiver I'm looking at today (Harman Kardon 3490) has a toslink input.

Most of them do. However instead of a receiver you can consider a class-D amp with a built-in USB DAC to save space and maybe even improve sound quality. There are several inexpensive options available from SMSL, Topping, and maybe used Teac/NAD that should sound pretty good. Or you can go separates, $250 should be enough for a Topping D30 DAC with a separate decent Class-D amp.
 
Most of them do. However instead of a receiver you can consider a class-D amp with a built-in USB DAC to save space and maybe even improve sound quality. There are several inexpensive options available from SMSL, Topping, and maybe used Teac/NAD that should sound pretty good. Or you can go separates, $250 should be enough for a Topping D30 DAC with a separate decent Class-D amp.
Hadn't even considered these. The receiver I'm looking at today is a Harman Kardon 3490, which although monstrously larger, probably has more connectivity options along with a what I believe is a better amp, a good radio and some other features (Dolby headphone and Dolby virtual).
 
I have an early 1990's Onkyo that's having connection problems, looking at some used ones.

IMO receiver is justified only if you can find a very good one for cheap or you need FM. There has been a number of mediocre receivers made over the years that work ok for movies but really not meant for quality 2-channel playback. Instead of a mediocre receiver better pick a modern 2-channel Class -D amp with a built-in or external DAC, you will have a USB input, so it will be easy to re-purpose it if necessary.
 
Most of them do. However instead of a receiver you can consider a class-D amp with a built-in USB DAC to save space and maybe even improve sound quality. There are several inexpensive options available from SMSL, Topping, and maybe used Teac/NAD that should sound pretty good. Or you can go separates, $250 should be enough for a Topping D30 DAC with a separate decent Class-D amp.

Or maybe the SMSL SA50.

Lots of features for not much $$.

No clue what it sounds like but for the money it might be worth checking out.

Eric
 
Rather than buying a cheap laptop, you may also look into a raspberry pi. Yes, they do not come with keyboards or monitors, but there are a number of media player operating systems for them that you can control with a smart phone. There are a number of us here who do enjoy them and you can get hardware add-ons that put a DAC on it, or a better digital out, or even a small amp that you can connect to speakers (hifi-berry provides all of those products). The raspberry pi with hardware add on plus case is around $100, give or take depending on models and what you want.

That being said, sometimes the raspberry pi is a bit more than people want, and laptops do have their simplicity for set up and such.
 
I will follow up on this with Apple, the link gvi provided says that the audio output

It probably means that the audio output has an analogue output, capable of driving headphones (using an internal DAC & headphone amp), but that there is also an optical SPDIF driver in the 3.5mm socket, just like there is in a Chromecast Audio. Only it sounds like Apple have put the optical driver under OS control, so it can be turned off (and therefore not shine a red light out of the port all the time). They may also have opted to disable the internal DAC & amp if the optical SPDIF driver is enabled (and vice versa).

Am I right in assuming that you have tried feeding the headphone analogue audio output into an amp, and find the quality of the audio inadequate for your purposes? Or are you just assuming that because it is on a PC, it cannot possibly be good enough?

If you haven't actually tried the analogue audio output into an amp, I would recommend it as the first thing to try; you might just be pleasantly surprised. You can then try lossy and lossless sources, and see if you can hear the difference.

Essentially, you are trying to find and eliminate the weak link in the chain, which could be lossy source, onboard DAC, or not so great amp in the kitchen. So far, you haven't really said how you have determined that it's the onboard DAC that needs replacing.
 
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cause he is trying to keep it cheap
and cause he is only using spotify and youtube

for now

we all know where this goes... hey it works ... now i want more more more more better better bettter
 
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