Console Dream Come True

Wow...that's great that a new R-30S turned up so quickly!

You still need a late C800 in place of that Stereo Companion so you can listen to those newfangled simulcast stereo broadcasts! :D
 
You still need a late C800 in place of that Stereo Companion so you can listen to those newfangled simulcast stereo broadcasts! :D
I wouldn't mind picking up a C800 just for the looks of the 6E5 tuning eye which I prefer over the EM84. But I am looking forward to seeing how the R-30-S sounds with the 560 hooked up. I will be able to listen to those FM-AM simulcast broadcasts if the FCC decides to scrap that digital hi-def radio nonsense and try something really daring. That's what the 'RADIO' position on the selector is for. However, I will need another Contemporary (I or II) if they go with the truly superior FM-FM simulcast plan.
 
"Radio" is marked as a stereo input, but it only has one tuning knob. How does that work - or does it have an ouput for a mutiplex decoder?

I wonder if your console receiver guy has any idea what's wrong with my R-20...
 
can you hook up a different external speaker to the R-30S or does it have to be the 560 (or something with an amp)?
 
"Radio" is marked as a stereo input, but it only has one tuning knob. How does that work - or does it have an ouput for a mutiplex decoder?

I wonder if your console receiver guy has any idea what's wrong with my R-20...

Sam;
Another TUNER connects to the Radio input. Then you tune both to whichever station you want. This is pre simulcast.

I'd make sure all the If tubes are good 1st. The Osc and mixer tubes are the hardest run in these tuners. IIRC your 1st 2 tubes are a 6dc6 and 6u8.

Don and Fran; 1959.

Larry
 
Sounds like simulcast to me. ;)

I've replaced both of those...there's a thread on it so we don't hijack Red's thread.
 
Actually with FM-AM Simulcast one channel of the LP or Tape (if it was recorded in Stereo) would be on FM and the other on AM. You'd get stereo effect. With the FM-FM "stereo" you'd have 2 sound sources but both would be mono. Basically the same as putting your current FM Stereo in MONO.
It only lasted 1 or 2 years.
Larry

Now back to Red's rig. About the only thing missing is about a 1/2 ton of silver icicles strewn on the tree. Glad to hear that the Contemporary is running again!
 
If you're connecting another tuner (say, using a C800 paired with a C810), nothing would be stopping you from tuning one to an AM station and one to an FM station. Also, if one FM station is playing the right channel and another is playing the left channel, that would be stereo. No different than the FM-AM simulcast.
 
I got a call around 2:00 from the guy who did the recaps for me. He said the package tracking indicated they were out for delivery. I went downstairs to check the front stoop where I found two big boxes full of Fishers waiting for me. (Also inside was the equivalent of three garbage bags worth of styrofoam peanuts with enough static charge to make them stick to everything - mostly me.) Everything appears to have survived intact.

I had just returned from an expedition up to my attic to sort out a little coax mystery that the last cable guy created. It would appear he disconnected all of the old, disused "B" channel runs that I had appropriated to distribute the FM signal from the big yagi in the attic. I'm back in business now.

I bolted the 30-A back into the 560 cabinet and hooked everything up. There was a tiny amount of hum which I believe is due to the long input cable run. Otherwise the 30-A seems to function quite nicely. Since the R-30-S isn't equipped for multiplex and their is a disappointing lack of multicasting in the DC metro area (for which, I realize, I would need another tuner anyway), I used the audio out from the cable box to test its stereo functionality. Yeah, I know, but it was handy.

Despite the asymmetrical speaker configuration, I think it sounds surprisingly good. It's much better than I expected. Controlling the volume is a bit cumbersome since the master volume on the R-30-S does not seem to affect the channels equally. Once I had set the balance using the level set on the 30-A I had to leave it at that volume. I think I can solve that somewhat by using sources with an output level control.

I also need to devise a master power switch since I don't think I want to use the switched outlet on the R-30-S to control the 30-A. That would double the amount of current running through the power switch on the R-30-S, wouldn't it? Plus I want some positive indication in the way of a power light to let me know when the 30-A is powered up so I don't leave it running inadvertently.

After listening to various music programs that happened to be on - Let It Bleed/Later with Jools Holland - I started exploring some of the music channels my cable service provides which I never listen to. It all sounded equally good to me: Swing, Easy Listening, Classical, Classic R&B, Golden Oldies, 70's Rock, Jazz . . . Even regular TV shows were significantly enhanced with the room filling sounds of this primitive stereophonic Fisher from 1959. But most impressive was the fact that my wife, who is feeling a little under the weather and would probably be easily annoyed, didn't ask me to turn it down.

About the only thing missing is about a 1/2 ton of silver icicles strewn on the tree.
I grew up with icicles and miss them terribly! 4 or 5 packages would have been about right for this little tree. I would have spent several hours combing them into place and making sure they hung vertically, too. If we didn't have cats we would certainly have icicles - but I'll take our cats.
 
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What a wonderful piece! I'm super jealous. I like the photo zoomed in on the Bass knob that captured the reflection of the tree. Is the lettering silk screened on the wood? I have done some refinishing in the past. One thing to look for in the oils if they build, or if they get absorbed into the wood. I used to use a product called Valoil from valspar. I used it when I was re-puttying my window sashes because it would sink in to the wood instead of building up. I believe that a Tung Oil wold build, like a poly.
 
9 ft extension cord to the 30A by way of a power strip mounted to the back of the 800. Plug the 800 and the 560 in to it and use that switch. most are rated for 15 amps.

Make a bucking transformer(B.T.) with enough guts to run both. Plug it in the wall and the pwr strip to the B.T.

Do you have a switched wall outlet on that wall? throw the switch to turn on and off.

Try reversing the power lead at the wall one at a time until the hum is at the minimum you can get it. On the 510/610 there are 2 hum pots you adjust with the 30A connected. I don't see anything like that on the R-30. You could also try a separate ground lead between the two also.

Turn up the 30A up all the way and use the R30 volume to set your level to where you want it on the R30, then lower the 30A to match. You might also have to roll pre driver tubes in the R30 to get the balance right. That's V10. try a 12ax7 there. the additional gain might help with the "B" channel output to the 30A. If too much, either go back to the AT7 or try a 5751.

Larry
 
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Larry, the 30-A is dead quiet until I plug in the 25' RCA input cable. I'm pretty sure the hum is a result of the long cable run. Actually it is such a low level hum that I only noticed it when I first hooked up the 30-A.

You could also try a separate ground lead between the two.

Are you suggesting grounding the two chassis to one another? Do you think that would help? I was wondering if it is possible to adapt from RCA to XLR for such a long run. I have a bunch of XLR microphone cables that I never use.

There is no convenient wall switch. The 30-A has a pretty long power cord that almost reaches to the R-30-S but I'd like to route everything through the basement so I don't have a bunch of cords running across the living room floor. There is an unused coax outlet near the 560 that could be re-purposed as a dedicated power/input cable source for the 'Companion'. I don't suppose there's a standard wall plate with one outlet and one female XLR connector. It's probably not a great idea to have the input cable and the power cable running through the same box.

I hadn't explored the bucking transformer suggestion but that sounds like an excellent idea. Instead of using a power strip I was thinking of mounting a larger metal switch/outlet box on the back of the C-810 with an industrial looking switch/light/fuse that I have seen and a dual outlet. How big are the RS BTs? Do you think they'd fit inside a two-outlet-sized box?
 
Is the lettering silk screened on the wood?
It appears to be. It's not a decal. However, I do believe the 'The Fisher' logo on the bottom of the 560 is a decal under a layer of varnish.
I have done some refinishing in the past. One thing to look for in the oils if they build, or if they get absorbed into the wood. I used to use a product called Valoil from valspar. I used it when I was re-puttying my window sashes because it would sink in to the wood instead of building up. I believe that a Tung Oil wold build, like a poly.
I ended up using Behlen's Rock Hard Tabletop Varnish for its durability and to replicate the slightly yellow look of the original aged varnish. It's not as yellow as I had hoped but it should mellow with age. It will probably look perfect in about 50 years.
 
The R.S. transformer fits in a dual gang switch box. I got a dual gang and a single gang box, put the tranny in one and the outlet in the other. Wired it up and have 2 different voltages as the tranny has a 12v and a 6v tap. But you could use one or the other. IIRC it's rated for 3-4 amps.

Sounds like the patch cord is picking up stray rf. You can't disconnect the shield from one side as it's needed to complete the circuit. Disregard the separate ground.

Now that i think about it, the 610/560 here i quiet until connected together. And I'm using a 12' RCA cable. Maybe a RF choke would work.

Larry
 
IIRC it's rated for 3-4 amps.
Is that sufficient to run both the R-30-S & the 30-A?

Sounds like the patch cord is picking up stray rf. You can't disconnect the shield from one side as it's needed to complete the circuit. Disregard the separate ground.

Now that i think about it, the 610/560 here is quiet until connected together. And I'm using a 12' RCA cable. Maybe a RF choke would work

I picked up a heavy-duty RCA cable intended for use with powered sub-woofers since that seemed like a similar application. The only time I can detect the hum is with the volume up louder than normal listening levels and no signal present. I've decided it's a non-issue.
 
The only time I can detect the hum is with the volume up louder than normal listening levels and no signal present. I've decided it's a non-issue.
Have you tried reversing the plug in the wall outlet? It's worked for me on more than one occasion with older, recapped consoles. :dunno:

Dave
 
Red. Add the watts on the R30S and the 30A together. then divide that by 120. Ohms law.

There is no Operating instructions for the C810 so I used the 800 from 1958 and the 560 operating instructions.

The R20 consumes 125Watts of electricity. The 560, 85W. That's 210Watts or just under 2 amps. Lets say for the sake of arguement the R30S consumes 130W and the 30A 85. That's 215Watts, which is still under 2amps. very close to 1.8a. So yeah the bucking transformer will handle both with a reserve.

Larry
 
I also need to devise a master power switch since I don't think I want to use the switched outlet on the R-30-S to control the 30-A. That would double the amount of current running through the power switch on the R-30-S, wouldn't it? Plus I want some positive indication in the way of a power light to let me know when the 30-A is powered up so I don't leave it running inadvertently.
What you need is a Powerswitch Tail 2. It uses a 12VDC / 120VDC relay to power switch 115V sources. I use one to switch on my power amp and turntable when I turn on my Luxman. The 12V wall-wart plugged into the Lux draws almost nothing, while flipping the relay for the 115V plug that goes into a power strip and feeds the amp / turntable. It's the best of both worlds (centralized power switching AND negligible power draw) and well worth the $25.

-D
 
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