Console lid hinges that no longer keep lid up ==> How to fix?

monkboughtlunch

Super Member
I have a 1970s Zenith console. When the lid is raised, the hinges no longer keep the wooden flip up lid in the "up" position. The only apparent means of adjustment is a screw on the bottom of the hinge. I've tried turning it either direction but no difference is observed.

The stamp on the hinge indicates it was made by Weber Knapp Co. and the patent number on the hinge itself is 3187374. Here's a web page on the actual patent: https://www.google.com/patents/US3187374

Does anyone know how to fix these console lid hinges so the lid will stay up?

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Have you heard of Google?

http://www.weberknapp.com/?page_id=198

Nice drawing of the exact unit you are looking at, and - SURPRISE! - the screw at the bottom is an adjuster. I didn't go further in depth, but I'd bet you can still buy these if yours are fully adjusted and not working.

Yes, I've heard of Google and also previously visited the manufacturer website. New Vectis hinges are quite expensive.

Hopefully, your abrasive etiquette won't confuse others by making them think you have posted a solution when you haven't.

Perhaps there are some folks that have repaired these and can share best practices on this thread.
 
New Vectis hinges are quite expensive

So, I'm not sure what expensive means, but what do you need, 2-3 hinges? If they are a direct replacement it could save a lot of grief later. Check the Viagra for hinges cabinet!
Only other suggestion I have is to check the cabinet hinges at Home Dopey; they may have one that fits as is, or you may need to change out the hinges and install by drilling new holes.

Good Luck
 
Hey
I gots the same problem with a Barzolay console. Oh and a Kenwood turntable. One of these days. Eric
 
So, I'm not sure what expensive means, but what do you need, 2-3 hinges?

http://www.vectiscounterbalance.com/vectis-200-1800/

•V200 offers a torque range of 90 lbs. to 200 lbs, and starts at $120 each
•V600 provides torque ranging from 160 lbs. to 600 lbs., and costs $145 per unit.
•V1200 costs $160 per unit, and provides a 350 lb. to 1,200 lb. torque capacity
•V1600 – our top unit – costs $180 each, and handles an impressive 450 lbs. to 1,800 lbs. of torque
 
Whoa! :yikes: I think I would either tear into it and see how it works or just keep your eyes open for a donor unit.
 
I don't know how much keeping it original means to you, but I would think you could find something at Rockler or Woodcraft that you could add to the cabinet to help the original hinges.
 
I don't know how much keeping it original means to you, but I would think you could find something at Rockler or Woodcraft that you could add to the cabinet to help the original hinges.

This is what I was referring to, a vintage stereo console may have a 3'-5' piece of maple probably 3/4" thick for a top, who needs hinges that cost the outrageous numbers posted above?

You may need to redrill for installation, but a mid 70s piece doesn't carry a particularly high dollar value, excluding personal value attributed to it, ergo, the Home Dopey line of cab hardware!
 
I have a 1970s Zenith console. When the lid is raised, the hinges no longer keep the wooden flip up lid in the "up" position. The only apparent means of adjustment is a screw on the bottom of the hinge. I've tried turning it either direction but no difference is observed.

The stamp on the hinge indicates it was made by Weber Knapp Co. and the patent number on the hinge itself is 3187374. Here's a web page on the actual patent: https://www.google.com/patents/US3187374

Does anyone know how to fix these console lid hinges so the lid will stay up?

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View attachment 983278
Hi there. I have exactly the same problem. Same Zenith console and same hinges. Did you ever figure this out? Thanks!
 
You guys should get some gas-filled liters and a toggle latch. Push the latch to disengage and the heavy lid lifts magically to its fully open position. To close, you push down on the lid, recharging the lifters, and engaging the latch. Think lift gate on an SUV or minivan.
 
You know, spring labeled 30 in the patent drawing is pretty standard-looking. If you can disassemble the hinge, a decent hardware store could supply a replacement. You can measure the force by pushing down on the spring while on a scale, and noting the weight (force) required to compress 1/2" or so. New spring would be that force plus a bit. Start at same length and wound diameter, but slightly thicker wire diameter.

Or, scope out toy box hinges, which will mount basically the same.

Chip
 
You know, spring labeled 30 in the patent drawing is pretty standard-looking. If you can disassemble the hinge, a decent hardware store could supply a replacement. You can measure the force by pushing down on the spring while on a scale, and noting the weight (force) required to compress 1/2" or so. New spring would be that force plus a bit. Start at same length and wound diameter, but slightly thicker wire diameter.

Or, scope out toy box hinges, which will mount basically the same.

Chip

This is how I'd start.

McmasterCarr has compression springs for most applications, catalog pages 1316 to 1319.

https://www.mcmaster.com/#springs/=1b69zdk

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Have not seen or disassembled your hinge. Chipchester and Cruzbay, i think on right track.
Disassemble and measure spring ID, OD and cross section. Buy a couple springs for trial /error fitting. Could use a Dremel tool to grind off to length if end does not have to be round flat. Vary length to get needed force.
 
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