CR-1000 Advice Needed

Discussion in 'Yamaha' started by LFazio51, Mar 10, 2017.

Tags:
  1. LFazio51

    LFazio51 AK Subscriber Subscriber

    Messages:
    101
    Location:
    Beaumont, Texas
    This has actually not been my experience but my perspective may be slightly different. The quality of manufacturing is first rate AND it appears that the majority of caps are Nichicon (unit has never been recapped so I know these are original, and they are everywhere!) The overall architecture is very tight on the model I'm working on and it appears disassembly of the tuning capacitor wheel and string is required to access many of the key boards. Its easy to remove the bottom row of switches, however, once you get to the bass and treble sliders, they are plugged into the tone amp board, which has to be accessed from the top of the unit, thus requiring removal of the tuning assembly as previously stated. Just to the right of the tone control sliders is the loudness and balance sliders, which appear to plug into another board as well, and quite possibly accessed from the top as well. Again, this is the first time I've attempted to disassemble a Yamaha unit and therefore, I could be wrong but I see no other way to access many of these boards unless the tuning capacitor wheel and string is removed; a process I'm not willing to use for education since this is my brothers unit. If it were mine, I'd have far less reservations. I'm really worried about restringing the tuning wheel and if ultimately it will require that I bring it to a tech shop to resolve, which would be far more money than I'm willing to spend to correct any errors I've made, especially given the fact that it's not going to be used for FM much at all.

    Also, the filter caps are just on top of the bottom plate, which again, would require the tuning capacitor flywheel to be removed, so the tuning board could be removed, then access to the caps be granted. I've also not seen a "generous" amount of wire going to these boards and cannot see how removal or recap would be possible without getting some of these boards removed entirely. Again, I'm a newb so I could be completely off-base on these initial assumptions so hopefully someone may set me straight on my thinking if there's an easier way. Look at the following pics.

    Tone Amp Assy viewed from the bottom. Switch boards plug in vertically to the left and horizontally on the bottom. I cant see anyway to remove these bass and treble slider assemblies without working to remove the tone amp board, which I think has to be done from the top of the unit, thus requiring the tuning capacitor wheel removal.
    CR1000 Tone Board Assy 3-13-17.jpg
     
  2. sssboa

    sssboa Active Member

    Messages:
    206
    You just swivel up the top and you are at home :) I never close mine :) You must remove a few screws (originally painted red) and tuning knob (you must use a hex key for 2 screws there) And as I said I recapped 2 units now without unsoldering a thing (except the capacitors of course :) I think u must unsolder wires to remove loudness and balance slider, so just don't remove them :) and the stereo mode row of switches, the obvious like volume potentiometer of course, probably power switch and speaker selector, you may see from below of the unit.

    yam_resized1080.jpg
     
    Last edited: Mar 14, 2017
    LFazio51 likes this.
  3. LFazio51

    LFazio51 AK Subscriber Subscriber

    Messages:
    101
    Location:
    Beaumont, Texas
    Hell YEAH!! :banana:Tuning knob is already removed so this will be a piece of cake! I guess I simply haven't pondered the design long enough and just assumed otherwise. I can't thank you enough sir for this "tid-bit" of information as it just made life MUCH easier!! Given my initial thoughts, I kept wondering WHY a manufacturer would design something that required the tuning wheel to be removed for accessing so many other areas! LMAO!
     
  4. LFazio51

    LFazio51 AK Subscriber Subscriber

    Messages:
    101
    Location:
    Beaumont, Texas
    Can anyone give me a recommendation for the best adhesive to re-glue the aluminum dial face on this unit? Or at least share what they've found to work well?
    CR1000 FP15.jpg
     
    avionic likes this.
  5. dadix

    dadix New Member

    Messages:
    27
    Look this restoration clip with English subtitles, at the end he use some things to resolve the same problem.


    I hope one day to have myself an Yamaha CR 1000.
     

Share This Page