CR-2020 slow/barely moving meters

basite

basite

I took a headstart...
Hi all,

I'm in the middle of planning a full restauration for my Yamaha CR-2020, it came in one channel dead, and with the "usual" service bulletin problem.

I repaired that a while ago, when I got it, and it's been playing very good since then. However, one thing I noticed, is that the output meters are barely moving. They are moving a little, and are correctly set (I used a signal generator to output a 1k sine, as well as other sine waves, at the given input sensitivity for the main in inputs), and they rose to 100 watts output, so that is correct.

However, when playing music, or anything else, really, I have to turn up the volume to near ear bleeding levels to get the darn things moving up to 5 or 10 watts. I know they are ment to be an indication only, not accurate etc, and rather VU meters than the faster PPM variants, but this slow?

anyone else notice this, and is it normal or not?

Thanks in advance!

Keep them spinning,
Bert.
 
If you have reasonably efficient speakers, 5 to 10 watts may well be near ear-bleeding levels.
 
CR2020 slow barely moving meters

Hello Basite

OK I understand your problem but :
1) when you made adjustment to your meters with sine wawe generator did you use 8 ohm loading resistors ? if not the indication on your meters will be wrong
2) Did you follow service manual instructions ?
waiting for your comment :scratch2:
 
do you have a scope ? if so you could look for light clipping on the outputs then turn it down so no clipping .then your meters should be hitting the max . i have set meters without a dummy load. i used speakers it gets them near enough .
 
@EW: B&W DM604's. Power sucking 8ohm big impedance swings, at average efficiency, in a fairly large room :) my Mcintosh MA6400's meters are all over the place with them...


during normal listening at around 80-85db, the aren't moving at all.

@clinic-audio

when I tested the meters, the amp was connected to an 8ohm subwoofer (and I was wearing earbuds), as I didn't have any dummy loads.
I only have the amps' schematic, so I am not aware of the instructions, however, the meters tested fine, so no adjustments were made...
Might try again if I can get dummy loads...

But as the meters test "fine", could it be that they are just rising to slow, for some reason?

Thanks,
Bert
 
The 2020 meters are power meters not VU meters. So they don´t move as rapidly. The volume needs to be cranked up a bit. At least 1/2 watt or so. On efficient speakers , as echowar has already stated, 1/2 watt starts getting pretty damn loud.
 
Last edited:
There is a procedure in the service manual to calibrate the meter movement with the proper test equipment.
 
Also the right hand power meter is a dual function meter. When you touch the tuning dial it automatically switches to the second function.(Signal Quality " Q") When you release the tuning knob it automatically switches back to the power meter function.
 
avionic said:
The 2020 meters are power meters not VU meters. So they don´t move as rapidly. The volume needs to be cranked up a bit. At least 1/2 watt or so. On efficient speakers , as echowar has already stated, 1/2 watt starts getting pretty damn loud.
Click to expand...

That is true enough. I don't know if my NS-690ii are efficient or not, but at barely 1 watt they are already cranking pretty loud and the needle doesn't move much.
 
using Klipsch Quartet 97db but barely see a movement on the meter..well if that it is then i'm good.. will start re-capping next week and do the SB
 
MannyE said:
That is true enough. I don't know if my NS-690ii are efficient or not, but at barely 1 watt they are already cranking pretty loud and the needle doesn't move much.
Click to expand...
At least 90db . My 1000's and 690's are all 90db. 1 watt is plenty loud enough for most listening.
 
arnold_a1968 said:
can someone help where i can get the correct 18000uF 80V, can't find at digikey, mouser or even ebay. thanks
Click to expand...


598-383LX223M080B092

The photo in there is totally wrong; look up the dimensions in the text below :)

You will not find any capacitor with the same lip-type terminals.
Normally Nichicon KG fits in vintage Yamaha gear, requiring the slotted PCB holes to be made a little wider, but the KG is just a few mm too long for the CR-2020.

The linked CDE caps have 5 pins, of which you have to cut off 3, and two holes per cap to be drilled just next to the original PCB slots.

Proper positioning at the exact same location as the originals is crucial, as the vertical and horizontal PCB will otherwise not properly line up.

I installed these caps in a CR-2020; works like a charm.
 
thats mechanical things not relate to functionality or electrical..as i dont have it so have to live with that but i can secure the caps by other means
 
So why do you ask the question what would be the right capacitor for this unit and then go a different route anyway?
 
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