CR-2040 meter leads, lamp brightness, & power button

ut when I touch the tuner dial knob they go flat--or at least the left one does.
The left meter has two functions. When you touch the tuning dial it automatically switches to the second function--Normal
 
When I have the meter selector button set to Level, with the input source a CD player in through Aux, the tuning meter still operates at the same time as though the FM is working (and the red lights on the right flicker if it's on a station whose signal is fluctuating). In other words,
The AM/FM is still active as far as the meters and LED's go.Even when AUX, PHONO or TAPE inputs are selected. --Normal
 
I was looking at the service manual and thought of one other thing. Is adjustment #2 here usually necessary? Is this what you were referring to in this post? And is it done with an oscilloscope? If it is an o-scope (of which I have a couple--see here), I thought I might give it a go. But I don't know how to connect it to do the measurement/adjustment. Also, I don't have any dummy loads, if they're essential to the process.

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You need and 1 khz audio signal generator (OSC) connected to the AUX input . And 8 Ω dummy load and a means to measure 10 watts at the speaker out binding post. Adjust the generator to the 10 watt output at the binding post. then make the VR 902 and 903 adjustments for both channels so the meter points to 10 watt mark on the power meters. ..
 
Approx 8.9 Vrms = 10 watts into and 8 Ω load. If your multimeter is a true RMS meter. Most Flukes are. You can use it to measure AC volts at the dummy load.Set the volume control on your 2040 receiver fully CCW. Then adjust the signal generator output level to obtain 8.9 vac (rms) at the dummy load. Then adjust your meters to the 10 watt marks.
 
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You need and 1 khz audio signal generator (OSC) connected to the AUX input . And 8 Ω dummy load and a means to measure 10 watts at the speaker out binding post. Adjust the generator to the 10 watt output at the binding post. then make the VR 902 and 903 adjustments for both channels so the meter points to 10 watt mark on the power meters. ..
I was hoping you weren't going to say that. I don't have a signal generator or dummy loads. I do have a Fluke 115, but I don't think that's enough to get the job done here.
 
Well, she's finally done. Yamahas from that era sure had the look, as far as I'm concerned. (My first real system was a CA-610II and matching tuner, so I guess I'm partial.) I put her in the living room for some pics, but the WAF isn't quite there yet. So back to the man cave... for now! I need one of those stain pens to touch up a few dinks on the corners. Also, I did the 640 first (earlier in the week) and had it all finished, and it wasn't until I stacked them for pics that I realized I need to do a little swapping of some knobs. A couple on the 2040 have some scuff marks/scatches, so I'll have to pop the covers again and do a little switcheroo. The 2040 definitely deserves the love.

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The 2040 is my favorite. The only downside I can think of is no provision for decoupling.
 
The 2040 is my favorite. The only downside I can think of is no provision for decoupling.

What is decoupling? The only downside I can see for me is that it has only one phono input. I like to run two turntables into my amps: one with a good stylus and another with one to not worry so much about for rough/untested records.
 
I've had mine for years.

Only turn off is the fake wood cover whatever they used is crap.

Congrats...
 
I like to run two turntables into my amps: one with a good stylus and another with one to not worry so much about for rough/untested records.
Stand alone phono pre-amp into one of the tape inputs.
 
The ability to separate the pre-amp from the power amps as in pre-out/main-in with a decoupler/coupler switch.
Then what are the pre-out jacks for? Are they only half of what you're talking about (i.e., lacking main-in jacks)?
 
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