CR-640 bias and offset?

Puddintane

AK Subscriber
Subscriber
Can someone please help me understand what's being said here? Are these instructions (from a Yamaha CR-640 service manual) for adjusting what are usually called the DC offset and the bias? And is this saying you can use either a DMM or an O-scope? Also, I'm confused by the terminology "center adj" and "offset adj." Is what's called "center adj" here what's usually called DC offset? And is the "offset adj" the bias? (scratches head)

I checked between both TL1/TL2 and ground and was able to pretty much zero them both out (via VR701/702). The other test points (E for both sets: E-left and E-right, I assume) would pretty much require removing the bottom cover, since the insulation on those wires is trimmed right at the board with zero, exposed, bare wire. So do I measure between each E point and ground and use the same trim pots to shoot for 0 +/- 5mV (or how exactly do I adjust this one)?

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So do I measure between each E point and ground
No...you don't . Clip your black meter lead on E or the metal chassis. Clip the red test lead to TL and adjust VR701 for zero +/- 5mv .Then move the red probe to TR and adjust VR702 for zero +/- 5mv
 
You don't . Clip your black meter lead on E or the metal chassis. Clip the red test lead to TL and adjust VR701 for zero +/- 5mv .Then move the red probe to TR and adjust VR702 for zero +/- 5mv
Okay, thanks, Avionic. That's what I did, and I was able to zero them. So this is just a diagram for a single test/adjustment (i.e., DC offset), and there isn't a bias adjustment?

Edit: when I first measured them at the speaker terminals the readings were very low, which were confirmed when I connected the leads to TL1 and TL2. They needed only a tiny adjustment to reach zero.
 
Bias or idle current isn't adjustable with these "chip amplifiers " ie. power packs.
 
Actually you don't even need to use a dummy load either.
 
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