Crossover part identification

Discussion in 'General Audio Discussion' started by Darby Crash, May 11, 2018.

  1. Darby Crash

    Darby Crash Active Member

    Messages:
    271
    Location:
    Long Beach
    I pulled my first crossover. Now i could use some help identifying the parts. Heres what is looks like. 7BAB98CC-0185-4BA0-A2FD-E4CBB774BA39.jpeg

    D7B7E362-9642-45D6-8029-BB58DC985269.jpeg

    Thanks

    Mike
     

     

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  2. BillWojo

    BillWojo AK Subscriber Subscriber

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    1) Inductor
    2) Capacitor
    3) Capacitor
    4) Inductor
    5) Capacitor on top of an Inductor

    Record the values of the capacitors as that is what you want to replace. The yellow one looks like it might be a film cap so it's more than likely fine. Inductors are just coils of wire, either with an air core or iron core and don't go bad.

    BillWojo
     
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  3. Darby Crash

    Darby Crash Active Member

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    271
    Location:
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    Great, thank you.
     
  4. Darby Crash

    Darby Crash Active Member

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    Location:
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    Whats the difference between the round and square inductors?
    Rounds are .30mh
    Square are 2.5mh
     
  5. DaveVoorhis

    DaveVoorhis Super Member

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    Round are air-core inductors.

    Square are laminated-core inductors.

    The metal laminations increase the inductance without significantly increasing DC resistance.
     
  6. Darby Crash

    Darby Crash Active Member

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    Location:
    Long Beach
    Ok. Now what about wire size? Am I gonna notice the difference between a 18 AWG and a 16 AWG? Aside from the $15 difference in price.
    The little cap (5) has no markings. Im gonna pull other board today and see if its the same. If its also unmarked how do i know what to replace it with?
     

     

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  7. savatage1973

    savatage1973 Addicted Member

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    First--what are the crossovers pulled from? You may be able to track down a schematic with values listed, or someone here may chime in with some experience with them. The yellow caps look to be film caps and should not need to be replaced. The others are electrolytics and most likely need to be replaced. Inductors rarely fail, so leave them alone. As for wire gauge--I doubt you would gain anything, other than difficulty with size/placement considerations--18 ga is already pretty substantial for a crossover network and internal cabinet wiring.

    Good Luck!!!
     
  8. faber12

    faber12 AK Subscriber Subscriber

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    Don't forget the little cap on the bottom right of the picture.
     
  9. Darby Crash

    Darby Crash Active Member

    Messages:
    271
    Location:
    Long Beach
    Great info... should be easy to do now.
    No schematic. I talked to the partner of the builder (The President of Audiance Loudspeakers) and he was surprised there was a pair of these still around. He said they are very rare so im kinda on my own. Im doing complete rebuild. Inductors, caps, L-pads, binding posts. Im gonna separate the L-pads and binding posts onto thier own board instead of all jammed onto one.

    The only thing im stuck on is the little silver cap (5) i cant identify.
    It was connected from the L-pad to the red binding post.
     
  10. Darby Crash

    Darby Crash Active Member

    Messages:
    271
    Location:
    Long Beach
    Im gonna wear out my welcome....

    Heres a cap.

    When replacing its ok to be a higher “uh” and VDC?

    Will a 33uh 100v non-polerized electrolytic cap be ok?

    80548EBF-F2A9-4343-AEA5-E919FEF50199.jpeg CCAFED94-A0F0-45E5-BDD3-D70D0DEB1C8B.jpeg

    Also is the N P neg and pos?
     
  11. DaveVoorhis

    DaveVoorhis Super Member

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    If used in a crossover, varying the capacity (uf or mfd) will slightly shift the crossover frequency. Higher VDC is fine.

    "N P" means Non Polarised.
     

     

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  12. Darby Crash

    Darby Crash Active Member

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    Ok so if i cant find a 25uh should i combine a 10 and 15?
     
  13. DaveVoorhis

    DaveVoorhis Super Member

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    You mean 25uf?

    Yes. Wire them in parallel, and it will be exactly the same as a 25uf capacitor.
     
  14. woodj

    woodj Super Member

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    3,461
    Ditto.
     
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  15. Darby Crash

    Darby Crash Active Member

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    271
    Location:
    Long Beach
    uf... yes.
    Thanks for your help, i think i understand what i need to get.

    The L-pad adjusting posts are glued on the outside so you couldnt make any adjustments, why? Who knows. Can i build the new crossovers without them?
    772CD8DA-7254-4CFE-84D2-BE10F165DC61.jpeg
     
  16. Darby Crash

    Darby Crash Active Member

    Messages:
    271
    Location:
    Long Beach
    I'm building a parts list. Everything is basic, just will have to combine a 10 and 15 cap to get the 25uf I need. Now i'm stuck on the L pads. They are Ohmite 0110 Model E 50 Ohm .5 Amp Rheostats. There are no markings regarding watts. Are these the same as L-Pads? In my 3 way set up they are for the tweeter and woofer. If looking at the picture the tweeter L pad is on the left and woofer on the right. Will it make a difference if I build the crossovers without the L pads?
     

     

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  17. DaveVoorhis

    DaveVoorhis Super Member

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    The levels won't be adjustable if you build the crossovers without the L-pads. Are the originals damaged?

    Unless there's damage, inductors and L-pads are usually retained in a crossover rebuild. Only non-polarised electrolytic caps generally need replacement. Even film caps tend to last indefinitely.
     
  18. Darby Crash

    Darby Crash Active Member

    Messages:
    271
    Location:
    Long Beach
    Well i would like to keep them in the loop. One is destroyed.
    Im just trying to figure out if they can be replaced with a 15w 8ohm LPad
     
  19. Darby Crash

    Darby Crash Active Member

    Messages:
    271
    Location:
    Long Beach
    Ya im stumped. Hours of searching, joining forums and still cant figure it out. Why would you need a 50 ohm when the speakers are 8 ohm?
     
  20. DaveVoorhis

    DaveVoorhis Super Member

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    The DC resistance of the level potentiometers has nothing to do with the impedance of the speakers.
     

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