DCM TF600

[cabby]

These were so cheap I couldn't pass them up. I've had good luck with my cx17 and time window 1a and always wanted a time frame.

These have two tweeters on the BACK of the speaker. On one of the speaker, neither of them produce sound. Coincidence or a deeper problem? Bad cap? Suggestions for replacement tweeters? This speaker also has a bad binding post so I took a look behind it and it appears that the cap is fairly easy to get to. Should I recap? Any suggestions for a replacement?

The other speakers rear tweeters are functioning although they appear to produce only the highest of frequencies and are overall quiet.

These are mirrored. Are these speakers in the correct placement in the pic?

 

[sum of sand]

Inside inside not outside outside

There should be a bulb "fuse" in there, right?
You can bypass that tying a strand of wire from end to end or get a replacement festoon bulb

I received mine and one or both speakers rear tweeters were very low in volume/seemed to not be working at first

The bulbs had blown


I like the tw better but the tf600 is nearly as good
More bass in 600s

 

[cabby]

Yes, there is a ridiculous bulb in there. Appears to be in good shape. I tried the wire connecting , although shoddy attempt, and still no tweeter....

Did you replace the bulb? What is the purpose of this if it can be bypassed with simple wire?

 

[60 Cycle Hum]

Yes, there is a ridiculous bulb in there. Appears to be in good shape. I tried the wire connecting , although shoddy attempt, and still no tweeter....

Did you replace the bulb? What is the purpose of this if it can be bypassed with simple wire?

It acts as a variable resistor that protects the tweeters from spikes/overpowering. They work well.

 

[KingBubba]

Not ridiculous. The bulbs have saved me a couple of time. Once when my grandson apparently turned the knob to full on my SX-1250 and I did not know until i fired it up. God what a sound. The bulb blew but the tweeters were okay. I hope you get them squared away. They are a wonderful sounding speaker.

 

[cabby]

Thanks to all who have replied. So it appears the crossover components are fine. Bulb and the two largish resistors checked out with voltmeter. Problem is one tweeter is dead. Since its in series, no sound from both. Question is, change out both? Furthermore, change the other speakers rears to make everything symetric?

Cap appears to be fine. Should I go ahead and replace anyways?

 

[rumblestrip]

Content deleted because I was so wrong.

 

[Gazdatronik]

The rear tweeters are DIY add-ons. Stock DCM TF 600's do not have them. If they are producing only the highest notes then they might be installed as super tweeters. Not only that but they look like real cheapies - about four or five dollars each. Either way, it's a hack job. You're best bet is to get them out and try to restore the crossovers to stock. Otherwise you'll just have a set of Frankenspeakers and as such they will only be worth what you paid for them.

Those look stock to me. DCM's, once you take their clothes off, are pretty ugly.
TF 400's don't have rear tweeters. 600's do.

One being blown, and affecting the other is a common issue. They don't like to be cranked. The rear tweets are crossed over at a lower frequency, and it was thought that since they operate at half power, they might be ok, but heavy handed lunkheads have verified its easy to send the rear tweeters to the cemetery.

And no, your placement is backwards. The speakers should be to the inside.

On the upside, if you short the terminals of the bad speaker and the other rear works, your crossover bulbs and crossover are probably good.

Damn good sounding speaker when operating properly.

 

[northpaw]

There is a lot of info on the TF600 and other models in threads here; definitely worth a search.

My understanding is that the TF600 and TF400 (and possibly some other TF models) share the same tweeter. The latter production of the TF400 did have a second tweeter in the rear. All TF400 Series II had it, but also some of the originals as well (mine fit in that category). It has been listed as an Audex tweeter, although it was special ordered with non-standard specs by DCM (Steve Erebach).

The safest path to replacement is to find used ones from a TF600 or TF400, but some have used an inexpensive drop-in replacement from Parts-Express, a 1/2 in Goldwood mylar tweeter (302/S) and found them acceptable. Everyone's sensibilities and tastes are different, so it is hard to know if you would be happy with it. If it were me, if I could not readily find a used one, I would probably continue looking but give the Goldwood tweeter a try in the interim.

The crossovers on the TF600 and TF400 are virtually the same (the only difference is the front and rear tweeters on the TF400 are in series whereas they are not in the TF600, although the two rears are). The one electrolytic cap isn't in series with the tweeters, so it is not as critical as it would otherwise be. A new NPE cap would fit in the space allotted (underside of the top PCB), but a film cap will have to go on top and be secured. I used a film cap, but did not notice much change to the already great performance. The TimeFrames are great speakers, as are the TimeWindows. My experimenting with the TF400 indicated to me that no toe-in produced the best imaging, and I suspect that would be even more true for the TF600 (dispersion of the front drivers is very good, and the rear tweeters are angled).

 

[dcmfan]

My understanding is that the TF600 and TF400 (and possibly some other TF models) share the same tweeter.

DCM CX-17 and CX-27 also use the same .75 inch tweeter.

 

[cabby]

Strange update....as I was wrapping up last night I decided to check out the front tweeter although I knew it was " working " since there is sound. I hooked up the voltmeter across the leads and it says " OL ". Hmmm........ I hooked up the speaker wire directly to it's terminals and I realize the sound is coming from the woofer, the co-axial set. The front tweeter is dead. Are these in " series " where signal to tweeter goes to woofer? I'm schematic illiterate, but the one I saw does not seem like it. Anyways, the good rear will replace front and will pick up two new ones for the rear which makes sense.

 

[northpaw]

Tweeters and woofers (both of the latter) are in separate legs of the circuit, not in series. The bottom woofer has its own leg (top of diagram), the top woofer (part of the coaxial arrangement) has its own leg (middle of diagram), and the tweeter circuits are on the bottom of the diagram. They share that bulb, so if any tweeters work, the bulb is ok.

 

[mgkfifty]

Good luck getting them sorted. I've had a pair for 4 years now and just love them. Mirror imaged drivers toward the center line. If yours have badges they will be to the inside. My nameplates were missing but can see through the fabric also put a piece of masking tape on the backs R/L I have the original owners manual. Very smooth and natural sounding, even my wife likes them she listens to much more music now, that says a lot. Also made right here in good ole Ann Arbor Michigan.

 

[revox-b77]

The Goldwoods will be fine. I would order 4 and replace all side firing tweets. They are about 5 bucks each. Save the good origonals for replacement if you ever blow the coaxial tweet. These are a great speaker enjoy.

 

[cabby]

How do I remove the sock from the rear port? It's sealed in there pretty tight. I tried to pull the port ou t but it's not budging that much.

 

[Speedbump71]

How do I remove the sock from the rear port? It's sealed in there pretty tight. I tried to pull the port ouView attachment 1228752 t but it's not budging that much.

It just pulls out of there. It took a bit of work to get mine out. There might be a bead of glue, or possibly some of the spray adhesive that holds the foam on keeping them stuck. Don't give up.

I think I have enough spare tweeters for one of these that I could help you out, as well as a couple of 15uf NPE for the crossovers. I think what I have is the newest recommended part, a Goldwood from Parts Express. Let me know if you are interested in one or a few.

 

[mtlmn1971]

I had a bad front tweeter on one and a magnet that shifted on the other. Worth the effort. Nice sounding speakers.

 

[cabby]

It just pulls out of there. It took a bit of work to get mine out. There might be a bead of glue, or possibly some of the spray adhesive that holds the foam on keeping them stuck. Don't give up.

I think I have enough spare tweeters for one of these that I could help you out, as well as a couple of 15uf NPE for the crossovers. I think what I have is the newest recommended part, a Goldwood from Parts Express. Let me know if you are interested in one or a few.

Appreciate the offer. Just ordered four tweeters from PE. A word to all TF600 owners. I discover that the front tweeter in the other speaker is also dead. Unless you check this individually with voltmeter or hooking up the leads directly to the tweeter, one would never know since sound is coming from the woofer just behind it. I would bet at least some of you guys have dead front tweeters.

Meanwhile I got some speaker cloth from Joann's. Not too bad. Just have no idea how I'm going to go about replicating the sock....

 

[cabby]

It just pulls out of there. It took a bit of work to get mine out. There might be a bead of glue, or possibly some of the spray adhesive that holds the foam on keeping them stuck. Don't give up.

I think I have enough spare tweeters for one of these that I could help you out, as well as a couple of 15uf NPE for the crossovers. I think what I have is the newest recommended part, a Goldwood from Parts Express. Let me know if you are interested in one or a few.

Did you have to remove that lead coming from the ?inductor? sitting right behind the cap when recapping ? It's wrapping it up pretty tightly on both of my crossovers.

 

[Speedbump71]

I just clipped the leads on the cap near the body and worked it out of there. soldered new leads to old ones after making some loops out of the old leads. They are worth the effort. Cool speakers!