Dead 2220B. What should I do?

Discussion in 'Marantz Audio' started by Onebean, Nov 20, 2016.

  1. Steven Tate

    Steven Tate AK Subscriber Subscriber

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    Get the service manual from hifiengine.com, go to the second page after the tuning string diagram and look at adjustments 12 and 13. Do #13 first. That sets the power supply voltage. If it won't set to 35vDC, there is a problem that can be focused on. If it will set, then do #12, which has four power amp settings. If they won't set and the power supply will, your problem is in the power amps. To do the settings, select AUX mode and volume at zero. Caution! Do the tests by connecting minigrabbers to the proper pins with power off. Power up, take the reading on DMM and power down to remove leads. Repeat for each test. These tests will give some good information to move forward. If the PS won't set, stop there and let us know.
     
  2. Onebean

    Onebean AK Subscriber Subscriber

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    Thanks Steven! I'll try to get this done before the tryptophan sets in. :D

    Happy Thanksgiving.

    Onebean
     
  3. buttahman

    buttahman AK Subscriber Subscriber

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    Beware the amplifier adjustment instructions in the manual for this model. There is a sticky in this Marantz forum that details the correct adjustment procedures.
    See the "Marantz Service Manual Error Thread."
     
  4. Steven Tate

    Steven Tate AK Subscriber Subscriber

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    He's correct. Here are a couple of errors listed in that thread that apply to the 2220b. The first one applies to what I wrote above.

    2220B Idle current adjust:
    SM says measure J712 - 718 for one channel, 713 to 719 for the other. WRONG! Do this instead: Measure bias at J714 to 716 and adjust R733 for 20mVDC on that channel. Then measure J715 to 717 and adjust R734 for 20mV on the other channel.

    2220B Cap listing:
    Service manual lists CE21 & CE22 as 33 uF/50v. Should be 3.3 uf/50v.
    CE23 & CE24 listed as standard 1.0 uF/50V. Use non polar caps here.
    C709 and C710 should be 47uf 50V, not the listed 500V.
     
  5. N8Nagel

    N8Nagel AK Subscriber Subscriber

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    Have you removed the relay cover and burnished the contacts themselves with some copier paper and D5? As filthy as that is that might be necessary, and also the absolute worst relay I've had that required extreme measures to get it to pass a signal was on a Marantz (1070 though)

    Be careful as if it's the same relay as the 1070 it is unobtanium. I've just resigned myself that I'll have to clean it every few years unless/until Omron decides to make it again.
     
  6. Werne1nm

    Werne1nm AK Subscriber Subscriber

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    I inherited this receiver from jason so I'll be updating this thread into what was needed to get this thing back on the air.

    Its been deliver to my house and will be opened tonight. Wish me luck as I dive in feet first to electronics repair. Seems like a good start.

    Windex and tooth brush is the first step!
     
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  7. Werne1nm

    Werne1nm AK Subscriber Subscriber

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    So. Today's my birthday! I decided to use my birthday to get going on cleaning this thing. In a previous post I was wondering about the wire wraps and it was suggested to just desolder the square posts. I started with the power amplifier board. Desoldered the wires and am proceeding to clean the thing. I'm using rubbing alcohol and a toothbrush. I think I'm going to resort to some Windex next. It's coming off but not quite as good as I'd like. I think I have to fully disassemble this thing to a bare chassis to clean it well enough to my standard. Took lots of pictures upon disassembly.

    I'm going to give this thing a good cleaning and reassemble for troubleshooting. I know I probably should have worked on it dirty to start but oh well. I'm I to it deep now.

    Any ideas on what to test while this is out? Another question is it looks like either t a capacitor is leaking or this lucky guy got glued in. No others look glued. Take a look at the second picture.

    Thanks for looking!
     

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  8. Onebean

    Onebean AK Subscriber Subscriber

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    Happy birthday!
     
  9. Steven Tate

    Steven Tate AK Subscriber Subscriber

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    Happy birthday! You share this birthday with my daughter who turned 34 today. If it looks like a brown puddle at the base of the cap, that's glue that Marantz used on a lot of the larger caps to keep them stable before soldering. It's a PITA to clean up and a bit of an art. After giving up on most solvents, I use a very sharp 3/8" wood chisel to remove the bulk of it after the cap is removed, followed by a Q-Tip with Isopropyl Alcohol.
     
  10. Werne1nm

    Werne1nm AK Subscriber Subscriber

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    Hey that's cool. I turn 31 today.

    Another update to my staying up "late night" birthday Marantz party.

    I've desoldered and removed the capacitors to the phono board. Easiest one to do. I've got a "mystery" board behind the phone board that doesn't show up in my schematic. What is it? No caps on it but to pots two transistors and a bunch of resistors.

    Here's the phono board cleaned... That one was dirty!... Need to clean it better but it's almost 11. Baby and wife is asleep so running the air compressor in the basement wouldn't be the best idea right now.
     

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  11. rBuckner

    rBuckner Luv 2 Restore Subscriber

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    Happy Birthday!

    Snap a shot of the mystery board and it can be identified easier.
     
  12. Werne1nm

    Werne1nm AK Subscriber Subscriber

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    Mystery board
     

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  13. rBuckner

    rBuckner Luv 2 Restore Subscriber

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    I think it may be a buffer amp for the Dolby FM function. Perhaps the earlier 2220B's didn't have Dolby and the manual commonly available doesn't have it.
     
  14. Werne1nm

    Werne1nm AK Subscriber Subscriber

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    You're probably right. Theres a switch on the faceplate for "Dolby FM"
     
  15. Werne1nm

    Werne1nm AK Subscriber Subscriber

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    A couple thoughts while I was cleaning last night and now that I've had a bit of sleep to mull this over in my head.


    This unit is EXTREMELY dirty. Not your normal dust and such. Looks like a TAR like substance was covering the MPX Stereo board. As I was cleaning it with 70% iso alcohol i noticed the bottom of the that board too was sticky. I tired to smell what it was but couldn't get a good scent in that all it really smelled like was the iso alcohol. The unit doesn't have any cigarette smoke smell on it or it doesn't appear to have been damaged by anything spilling on it but none the less its dirty. I'm about to stick these boards in my dishwasher OR try something with some warm water and mild soap. The MPX board has been the worst so far but the FM tuning board looks just as bad. I think this is going to have to involve take out ALL the boards and cleaning them. I'm trying to avoid removing the PS board completely because of the complexity (not complex but labor really) in all the posts along one side of the board. I guess if I can't get that as clean as I'd like I'll have to take real good pictures and desolder all the posts.

    I removed the power amplifier, FM, phono, and MPX Stereo board last night and cleaned a bit but again, I'm going to need something stronger to clean this gunk off. Its not even just dirt or dust, its GUNK.

    Mean while I had my first casualty. The dial needle got lost in transit and broke off as I flipped the unit upside down. I'm upset that I broke it. Looks like I could super glue it back. Not a big deal I just am upset that I broke it.

    This is not only dirty on the boards but just the whole thing is dirty. The front chassis as well from the meter to the bulbs and all the chassis holding everything together. Not sure if I WANT to fully dissassemble the from of the unit but I might resort to that.

    Pictures attached of the MPX board. soooo dirty.
     

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  16. Steven Tate

    Steven Tate AK Subscriber Subscriber

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    The gunk could be almost anything. Think of a shop somewhere with oily residue in the air and the Marantz sitting on a shelf for twenty years. Anyway, looks like you are on the right track with the deep cleaning. I have used rBuckner's Windex and water method on a 2245 with great results. But taking each board out - while very labor intensive - should give you multiple options for cleaning it up. If you are taking multiple boards out at one time, I hope you are tagging those wires for reassembly. There are going to be lots of wires of the same color. Great thread! :thumbsup:
     
  17. Werne1nm

    Werne1nm AK Subscriber Subscriber

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    YES multiple pictures have been taken of sections where i desoldered the posts. I made the mistake of taking apart a mission desk for refurbishment and had a heck of a time putting it all back together. last time I did something like that. I took four boards out. I don't really want to take out more but the Tuner board is just as bad as the MPX board. Also, with all the gunk EVERYWHERE in every nook and cranny... i might have to... I don't want to mess with the pulleys and string. I really don't want to do that.
     
  18. Steven Tate

    Steven Tate AK Subscriber Subscriber

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    IMO, the pulleys and string are not that bad. Take lots of pictures is the main thing. It's tedious getting it back together, but not a big obstacle. It's easier if you use masking tape to tape the string to the main tuner pulley before you drop the string. Getting it back on the smaller pulleys is not that hard.
     
  19. rBuckner

    rBuckner Luv 2 Restore Subscriber

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    The bottom of many boards have leftover soldering flux coating the entire surface. This was applied during the wave soldering process. Alcohol loosens it and leaves it sticky until it dries. Keep washing with alcohol and scrubbing, usually 2-3 times does it. A final clean with Windex makes it very nice.
     
  20. bryans12v

    bryans12v Marantz Junkie Subscriber

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    Happy Belated Birthday! I think it's awesome a young guy like yourself is determined to bring an old dirty stereo back to life. :thumbsup:

    While it may be tedious, on big tasks like this, it helps me to write down everything I do step by step. This makes reassembly very simple and alleviates a lot of anxiety.

    I have never done a wet cleaning but I think this would be a good contender. I would think it may be wise to pull the transformer and meters to keep the water out of them. If you do go that route do as much research as possible before doing so. Immediately after it comes out, give it a while too cool and hit the pots with contact cleaner to displace the water.

    I would also unsolder all the trimmers to disassemble and clean them thoroughly.
     

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