DIY FleXy Rack instructions?

Hi guys, I was going to build a flexi, then thought I would hit the consignment stores and see what I can come up with. Now after reading what you guys wrote, I'm back on the flexi ride. Thanks for all the input and ideas. Super appreciated!! :yes: :thmbsp:
 
I have been thinking about this rack as well

I've been to Home depot and checked out their threaded rods. I will probably go with four 3/4" plain rods in 3 foot lengths. The stainless steel is attractive however. I'm planning to use pine so I can stain it. The pine shelving comes in lengths divisible by 20" and if I am going to follow the 24"width, I'll be using a lot more. I am planning a modification and I'll show you the pics once it's done :scratch2:. I'm still looking for alternatives.

Incidentally, this concept has been used in orthopedics. It has been used in the treatment of fractures, non-healing bone, mal-united bones and limb lengthening. Just wanted to share this bit of information. The link, however, is not for the faint hearted. Before you
proceed, remember, you have been warned :nono:.
It's not a :wtf: thingy, it really works.

http://www.ilizarov.org.uk/others1.htm

Cheers
 
Nice link alveyphile. Brought back lots of bad memories. Mine was called a Hoffman. I reckon Mr. Hoffman was a sadist. I actually managed to break a screw connecting 2 bones. It of course found a major nerve. Ah I can still remember the pain and picture Herr Hoffman laughing. Remember Dustin Hoffman having his tooth drilled in the "Marathon Man". Another Hoffman. How ironic. Anyway 3/4 threaded rod is a good choice. 1' is even better but not obligatory. For the coolest look brass rods and hardware is best but gets very expensive.
 
Hopefully selling speakers tomorrow, and then hopefully my father will come up with the money needed to complete them....I don't feel right accepting $300 from somone that works 12/7 for something that is so much for me.
 
I've had no problems with the hardware at all. A local Ace has all size rods up to 15/16ths I believe and the hardware for each.

I'm considering using 3 quarter inch MDF glued together for the shelves. I can then take the inner one, put cutouts in it and fill with sand or other dampening agents.

Just a thought.

Anyone else have any interesting variations on the theme?

I found the threaded rod can be had for very little money at Home Depot. It is stocked in several locations in the store, but if you check the plumbing aisle, you can get a 6 foot length of it for like $ 1.80.

I used the same rod when I built my speaker stands a few months ago.:banana:
 
I've been re-reading this thread and thought I would go ahead and ask, has anyone besides me considered building a Flexy using laminated glass shelves?
I know some of the drawbacks - outrageously expensive, plus you would have to pay to have the holes drilled, extremely heavy and difficult to handle, limitations in size of materials, etc. But, I can't get the vision out of my mind. I've been considering this for some time now, using 3/8" laminated glass (minimum), three rods perhaps five feet tall, five or six shelves.
Am I absolutely crazy, or have others of you thought of this?
Bob
 
Why not just acrylic? It would perhaps be cheaper and look about the same. 3/8" acrylic is about $11.00 a square foot, 3/4" is $25.00 a square foot.
 
Jackfish,
I've seen photo's of one done in acrylic. Looked good. My problems with acrylic are that it scratches very easily, develops a haze with age, sags more than laminated glass, and tends to develop stress cracks at places where holes are drilled. I've done my share of work with acrylic (being in the museum business) and much prefer glass when it is an option.
Bob
 
Ausjoe,
I had seen the link with the image of the acrylic shelf unit. That's probably what started me thinking about laminated glass for shelves, acrylic just has too many drawbacks. The image in the second link is one I don't believe I've seen, although I have considered that configuration in my mind - double width, five legs, staggered shelves. Very cool!
Thanks for your comments and the links.
Bob
 
Nice link alveyphile. Brought back lots of bad memories. Mine was called a Hoffman. I reckon Mr. Hoffman was a sadist. I actually managed to break a screw connecting 2 bones. It of course found a major nerve. Ah I can still remember the pain and picture Herr Hoffman laughing. Remember Dustin Hoffman having his tooth drilled in the "Marathon Man". Another Hoffman. How ironic. Anyway 3/4 threaded rod is a good choice. 1' is even better but not obligatory. For the coolest look brass rods and hardware is best but gets very expensive.

AusJoe,

I hope things worked out and your bone healed. People either cringe or laugh at the concept until it becomes the last resort to deal with the unhealed bones.

I'll take pictures of my project soon (as I start with it:D).
 
If your a believer, alot of guys say the system sounds better sitting on wood rather then metal or glass. Just throwing that out there. I think glass would look really cool.

Evan
 
From what I've read, laminated glass does not exhibit the resonance problems associated with metal or regular plate glass.
 
I Just started building one.

I bought some 1/2 inch 9 ply nordic birch plywood, and a sheet of 5/8 high density MDF, the kind used in subwoofer enclosures.

Two shelves will be comprised of the MDF sandwiched between the Birch ply.
I cut all my pieces already. the birch is 30x20" and the MDF is 28.5x18.5.
the extra 1.5 inches on the ply is so that I can put 3/4" strips of maple and mahogany around the MDF, with the mahogany on the face edge for aesthetics.

The MDF will have 2 chambers cut out of it about 2" from the edge with a 2" strip down the center of it. kinda like a sideways square figure 8.

these chambers will be first sprayed with Noise killer, and then filled with sand.
this I believe will result in highly damped shelves.

the 2 other shelves will be single sheets of the plywood.

once the shelves are assembled they of course will get the sanding treatment, and sealed. this will be followed with a satin varnish.

instead of having 2 poles on one side, and one on the other, I will be putting one at the back and two at the front.
I do not need it to be modular like the ones on the website, and I think it will result in better stability. besides I like symmetry too much.


I'm on vacation this week, so it should be done by the end of the week.
 
I posted on this thread that a many of us have lots of extra building material laying around that can be used to create audio racks, ect. Well since I wanted to see if Vinyldavids finished his flexy and I needed some speaker stands anyway I built some stands. out of scrap. The goal was to clear out a bit of space and not spend any money.

I used some scrap 3/4" mdf to build 2 layers and 3/4" plywood for the bottom 2 layers. That made 3" and another 1/2" from some hardwood flooring leftovers I had. Covered the sides with1x4 pine and painted it black. It is level and true but of course if I want spikes then I'm out some money. But this is the free result. Very easy to build.file:///Volumes/NO%20NAME/DCIM/100OLYMP/P7110066.JPG
 

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Oh yea they are 18"x16" so they could possibly be called amp stands too! You could add a bit too the length if needed.
 
Well I decided to start out with speaker stands first.

5/8" rods and 3/4" plywood. Primered and then two coats of black enamel.

I am pretty happy with my first attempt at this.

FYI, top speakers are 1975 Vintage Technics SB 660s that I brought back from Germany and the bottoms are the more popular Pioneer HPM 100s.

Starting the component stand this afternoon.
 

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